How do you remove the ABS unit?? Break all lines and have to do a full bleed? I'll try to avoid that, as I understand bleeding the abs unit requires a tec2.

You said you removed the power steering pump and reservoir as well? So you disconnected some power steering lines and had to refill?

I'm doing this in an hour or so, so please reply is you see this

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

 

Damnit, debo, I was all excited about constructive advice! :P

 

I ended up dropping the kmember and the rack almost to the ground. Not all the way, because there were some oil cooler lines and brake lines running under the rack that I didn't want to untangle. Either way, plenty of room to clear the pulley. It's sitting halfway propped up at the front by a cinder block.

Didn't take the rad out.

Fan was out, and I had to push forward on the top of the rad a bit to clear the pulley at one point.

Didn't break any brake lines or power steering lines (dropping the kmember was key).

Dropped the kmember, as I said, which means I really shouldn't have touched the rack, tie rods, nothing (maybe the steering shaft, but that slides out real easy once you fully remove the one bolt). Really all it took was undoing some plastic clips holding wire looms and brake lines, unclipping some electrical connectors, and unmounting the brake hose brackets. This is way preferable to all the other pain I went through.

The AC compressor wasn't much of an issue, as I thought, as there's plenty of room to swing the motor to the driver's side once it's free of the input shaft. (I think it's retarded that you have to pull the engine to service the AC compressor on this car... then again, it's not the only retarded thing regarding serviceability on this car).

Didn't take the hood off (didn't wanna worry about misalignment), and it wasn't really an obstacle. Do this only at the last minute if you're stuck, but you shouldn't get stuck, especially with a load leveler.

BTW, I think a load leveler is an asset.

I also left one of the heads on, so I know I can assemble the motor fully with the heads before I drop it back in.

Exhaust manifolds and intake were off.

The motor came out nose up, but nothing drastic, only about 15-20 degrees. Basically you wanna clear the pulley over the rad first, and then you can swing forward and clear the cowl.

The really annoying part was some of the bellhousing bolts. But with a lot of patience, and the help of a big guy, they all succumb eventually. There are 6 of them in the block, the rest in the oil pan. Feel around the bell housing till you find them all. Was playing with box end wrenches in various orientations, ratcheting box end wrenches, wrenches to extend the small 13mm, and the lower driver's side bolt required two u-joints and a ratchet.

All in all, this job can be frustrating, just remember that it's been done before, so there's always a way, even when it's looking impossible

 

Glad to hear you got it out.

 

Now... On to the unveiling of the C7!

 

That will happen on Monday.