Just unbolt the two bolts and slide the rack over into the pasenger wheelwell enough so the pulley clears the rack.
Having trouble pulling engine out. Advice?
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
Having trouble pulling engine out. Advice?
Pulling motor from top. Car frame on jackstands. Bellhousing, torque tube, and rear suspension still installed. We are trying to pull the motor out of the top and when you slide it forward, the balancer contacts the steering rack. It almost comes up over it, but not enough. So we loosened the K member, hoping to gain the clearance needed by allowing it to lower down an inch or so, but the K member does not just lower and stay. Like its being held up by something. So we disconnected the shocks. This helped but it still feels like it "springs" up towards the frame rails. So then we disconnected the lower ball joints. And stopped for the day...
My questions to those who have experience in this are: 1. Are we going to gain enough clearance to remove the engine by lowering the K member 2 inches or so? 2. Am I missing anything else here to get the K member to lower down?
Thanks in advance.
My questions to those who have experience in this are: 1. Are we going to gain enough clearance to remove the engine by lowering the K member 2 inches or so? 2. Am I missing anything else here to get the K member to lower down?
Thanks in advance.
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,075
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
I pulled mine with bellhousing and TT removed. I also pulled the steering rack and intake manifold. That gave me planty of room to work with.
You may have luch doing what you are suggesting, but I would take the bell housing and TT off as a minimum. It's not that much extra work at this point.
You may have luch doing what you are suggesting, but I would take the bell housing and TT off as a minimum. It's not that much extra work at this point.
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
My heads and intake manifold are off already so topside clearance isnt an issue. Just getting the shortblock far enough forward to clear the input shaft and bellhousing. Its so close, but that damn steering rack needs to be lower or removed.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,948
Likes: 107
From: God's Country, ID
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I wish I'd taken pics on the removal, but I never dropped the steering, lowered the crossmember, or took out the torque tube and bell housing.
I did remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, water pump, and the AC compressor. I unbolted the PS pump and ABS and pushed them to the side.
I remember rotating the engine to point the nose higher than in your pic. It was a real tight fit, so maybe I just got lucky and found the right spot.
Oops! Just remembered mine is an A6, so it doesn't have the clutch to deal with.
I did remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, water pump, and the AC compressor. I unbolted the PS pump and ABS and pushed them to the side.
I remember rotating the engine to point the nose higher than in your pic. It was a real tight fit, so maybe I just got lucky and found the right spot.
Oops! Just remembered mine is an A6, so it doesn't have the clutch to deal with.
Last edited by HOXXOH; Apr 10, 2012 at 02:08 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,078
Likes: 19
From: Cumming, GA
I pulled mine through the top in my garage and you HAVE to slide the rack to the side. No getting around it. 
Have fun with the a/c compressor too if you're leaving all the lines intact. The longer bolt was a major PITA for me and getting it out of the way.
Have fun with the a/c compressor too if you're leaving all the lines intact. The longer bolt was a major PITA for me and getting it out of the way.
Last edited by LEAVINU; Apr 10, 2012 at 02:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
Got it out! Took out the two steering rack bolts (steering rod ends were already disconnected) and slid it over towards the passenger side out of the mount ears. This allowed for enough room to get it out. Thanks to all!
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
Broken ring land on #5 piston, cracked sleeve same cylinder. Happened day after being dyno'd for Procharger. See my albums for pics, or search my posts (did a post about symptoms and findings).
Going all forged now. New shortblock should be here in a week or so.
Going all forged now. New shortblock should be here in a week or so.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 443
Likes: 37
From: LA CA
OP, can you help with a few more details?
1. Did you disconnect the steering shaft to move the rack over? Looks like it from the pics. Was it a pain?
2. What did you do with the AC compressor? Was there enough room on the driver's side to slide the engine over and let the bolts come clear?
3. Did you take the hood off?
4. Didn't look like you used a load leveler. Did it come out and go back in pretty easy, or did you have to get the engine almost vertical or anything crazy?
5. Rad has to be out, right?
6. Should I try pulling/installing with the heads on, or will it be a pain?
Any other tips?
Anyone know of a writeup somewhere?
I have the intake, exhaust, one head off, oil pan off. Also have the kmember hanging.
Thanks a lot.
1. Did you disconnect the steering shaft to move the rack over? Looks like it from the pics. Was it a pain?
2. What did you do with the AC compressor? Was there enough room on the driver's side to slide the engine over and let the bolts come clear?
3. Did you take the hood off?
4. Didn't look like you used a load leveler. Did it come out and go back in pretty easy, or did you have to get the engine almost vertical or anything crazy?
5. Rad has to be out, right?
6. Should I try pulling/installing with the heads on, or will it be a pain?
Any other tips?
Anyone know of a writeup somewhere?
I have the intake, exhaust, one head off, oil pan off. Also have the kmember hanging.
Thanks a lot.
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
1. Did you disconnect the steering shaft to move the rack over? Looks like it from the pics. Was it a pain?
Yes. To disconnect the shaft from the rack it is only one bolt.
2. What did you do with the AC compressor? Was there enough room on the driver's side to slide the engine over and let the bolts come clear?
Remove what bolts you can. Completely unthread the others, and once you begin to pull the engine up and out the rest will slide right out, leaving the compressor in the car.
3. Did you take the hood off?
Yes. Definitely take it off. Use several layers of blue painters tape on the front fascia to avoid scratching.
4. Didn't look like you used a load leveler. Did it come out and go back in pretty easy, or did you have to get the engine almost vertical or anything crazy?
No load leveler. Just chains and padding between the block and chains. This will allow you to maneuver the block much more.
5. Rad has to be out, right?
I left my radiator and intercooler in.
6. Should I try pulling/installing with the heads on, or will it be a pain?
Take the heads off, valley cover and all accessories. The less you have on the block, the less weight and bulk you have to deal with when pulling it out.
Any other tips?
Check out my pics in my albums for some visual aids.
Good luck.
Yes. To disconnect the shaft from the rack it is only one bolt.
2. What did you do with the AC compressor? Was there enough room on the driver's side to slide the engine over and let the bolts come clear?
Remove what bolts you can. Completely unthread the others, and once you begin to pull the engine up and out the rest will slide right out, leaving the compressor in the car.
3. Did you take the hood off?
Yes. Definitely take it off. Use several layers of blue painters tape on the front fascia to avoid scratching.
4. Didn't look like you used a load leveler. Did it come out and go back in pretty easy, or did you have to get the engine almost vertical or anything crazy?
No load leveler. Just chains and padding between the block and chains. This will allow you to maneuver the block much more.
5. Rad has to be out, right?
I left my radiator and intercooler in.
6. Should I try pulling/installing with the heads on, or will it be a pain?
Take the heads off, valley cover and all accessories. The less you have on the block, the less weight and bulk you have to deal with when pulling it out.
Any other tips?
Check out my pics in my albums for some visual aids.
Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 443
Likes: 37
From: LA CA
Angry Z, how far did you move the rack over to the passenger side? I didn't mess with it too much, but I can't get it to move very far, maybe an inch. Doesn't look like I'm improving the clearance for the pulley. I think it's being blocked by the abs unit, and the tranny cooler line is really annoying, as well. I gave up for tonight...
If all else fails, I'll undo the lines and remove the whole rack. But you didn't have to do that, right?
I have a base c6, m6, but I doubt that makes a difference.
If all else fails, I'll undo the lines and remove the whole rack. But you didn't have to do that, right?
I have a base c6, m6, but I doubt that makes a difference.
Thread Starter
Wicked
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 675
Likes: 14
From: TN
As far over as you can, and remove the aluminum shims on the rack that go over the rack ears. This will give you more room to slide and tilt the rack. You will need to tilt the rack forward some too. Loosen the K-member nuts until the last thread almost disappears into the nut. Thats as loose as I went. I did not remove the whole rack.
You definitely want the ABS unit and its bracket out of there. Along with the power steering pump and reservoir. I removed everything down to the shortblock.
hope this helps
You definitely want the ABS unit and its bracket out of there. Along with the power steering pump and reservoir. I removed everything down to the shortblock.
hope this helps