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The water temp just climbs but the oil stays about 190.. I shut thr car down around 240. This was idleing.. Keep in mind I used full consintrate antifreeze and im thinking I didn't mix it right and the stat was sticking? So I took my 160 stat out and it looks fine.. That's not the issue.. Now besides adding antifreeze I just decide to top it off with water to help even it out.. Same thing again.. I do have my stock stat still but I think it might be a bad sensor? Car isn't throwing any codes.
Question... did you say full concentrate antifreeze?
If yes, thats wrong. Should be 50/50 max. Get a antifreeze tester from auto supply place, costs ya less than $10 for cheap but good tester. Antifreeze will not cool as good as water, more antifreeze, less cooling.
Question... if you just added a pint/quart of 100% antifreeze, no big deal thats ok, If you drained all coolant, replaced with 6-10 gallons 100%, problem!!!!
Question... does it overheat if going at or over constant 50 mph. If no overheat then most likely something blocking flow in front of radiator (plastic bag or such) or your fans arent working at all (or only sometimes).
Point, 190 stat will cause temps over 200 normally. Fans cool when driving slowly or at idle.
Engines at or over 240 will smell hot (like hot stinky metal) when you open hood and or spew as they boil.
If your fans are NOT running hard when you get over 220 then they are your problem!
Last edited by ChevyDave; Apr 29, 2012 at 03:51 PM.
Reason: added fan comment
Did you get all the air out of the system? Also 100% anti freeze is not good. Just buy the premix and save yourself the hassle of mixing.
IIRC you installed new cam and had the heads off as well?
If this is the initial start-up, you need to burp the cooling system. Otherwise you will have overheating issues exactly like you are seeing.
Matt, take the hose off the crossover pipe for the heads and blow into the overflow tube until coolant flows out of the crossover pipe with no bubbles.
And +1 for 50/50 mix of distilled water and dexcool
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Originally Posted by marine&hisvette
The water temp just climbs but the oil stays about 190.. I shut thr car down around 240. This was idleing.. Keep in mind I used full consintrate antifreeze and im thinking I didn't mix it right and the stat was sticking? So I took my 160 stat out and it looks fine.. That's not the issue.. Now besides adding antifreeze I just decide to top it off with water to help even it out.. Same thing again.. I do have my stock stat still but I think it might be a bad sensor? Car isn't throwing any codes.
Most likely it's your fan not coming on as I just had virtually the same thing happen to me after almost 80K miles.
If you're lucky the connector may have just melted a bit and if that's the case you can get away with just bending the prong downward a bit to ensure it's making good contact again. If not, you're looking at having to replace the connector with a new one.
So the metal cross over pipe on the heads? Btw I tore into this car 3 times and this is the first time it's happening.. There's an incredible amount of air in the system.. Btw the fans work great
Ok I took unclipped the cross over pipe at the T and blew into the rubber hose until bubbles came up the anti freeze tank. Done it.. Start the car up with the cap off and it bubbled over...Is there any other way to burp?
Pull the tube on the crossover pipe, and then blow on the tube of the overflow tank(the one that looks like corrugated hose) until coolant comes out of the crossover pipe.
Pull the tube on the crossover pipe, and then blow on the tube of the overflow tank(the one that looks like corrugated hose) until coolant comes out of the crossover pipe.
That trick has worked for both Justin and myself. Upon refilling my coolant this past week I did it again to avoid any potential problems when I finally get to start her up. Sometimes the water pump can become air bound so you may have to try it twice. This method will clear most of the bubbles from the heads and upper motor, generally where the bubbles would normally collect.
Sean
Edit: be sure to keep he reservoir cap on. You are essentially pressurizing the system with your lungs. You will need to hold your thumb over the hose than you removed from the crossover pipe as well to ensure the system sees the pressure.
That trick has worked for both Justin and myself. Upon refilling my coolant this past week I did it again to avoid any potential problems when I finally get to start her up. Sometimes the water pump can become air bound so you may have to try it twice. This method will clear most of the bubbles from the heads and upper motor, generally where the bubbles would normally collect.
Sean
Edit: be sure to keep he reservoir cap on. You are essentially pressurizing the system with your lungs. You will need to hold your thumb over the hose than you removed from the crossover pipe as well to ensure the system sees the pressure.
Thanks for chiming in Sean, I had told him incorrectly at first.
I did that and still same issue.. I'll try it again tommorow.. Keep in mine there isn't any pressure in part 15 and 13.. I squeeze them and they feel empty
I did that and still same issue.. I'll try it again tommorow.. Keep in mine there isn't any pressure in part 15 and 13.. I squeeze them and they feel empty
They wouldn't be under pressure normally. Do they feel different than before? You could try to loosen them a bit and see if fluid comes out. Otherwise try the method above a coud times to prime the water pump. That should do the trick.
Yea I was suppose to take her to get it tuned tommorow.. That's goin to be put on hold I guess. Btw this a a good thread because I'm sure a lot of guys went through this and did load of research instead of just asking.. Cf mods should make a thread detacated just for trouble shooting and good advice.. Kinda like the ls2 timing set up...
Last edited by marine&hisvette; Apr 29, 2012 at 09:19 PM.