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Drive on ramps will work fine. The only time an end link is under tension is when one wheel on the same axle is higher or lower than the other wheel on the same axle. The "sway bar" is actually a torsion spring and doesn't do anything as long as both wheels are moving the same amount in the same direction.
Do you have the new design end links from GM? Just had one replaced on my 08 and the new ones are steel and similar to the ones used on the C5s for a couple of years.
i have an 09 and want to replace the end links. couple questions...
why are stock ones $25 and LG motors wants $300 for the set?
specifically what size and type of tools do i need for this job? i see that the bolts and nuts are larger than what i have...
i will be doing this on ramps...
thanks
LG are different - heavier duty, adjustable, and teflon lined
regular hand tools - socket wrench and open end wrench
depending on the ramp, you may need to drive up on some boards first
Note: when installing you want to make sure they are as close to neutral as possible (not binding). If they are at a crazy angle while the car is resting on an even surface, then youll end up with the bars preloading during turns, which will cause handling issues.
Good luck - youll find that theyre super easy to do after youve gone through it once!
Last edited by el es tu; Jun 12, 2012 at 01:55 PM.
not sure on the socket size - it varies between the different link kits and I believe lg has changed the bolts around a couple of times. I use a similar setup from a different brand. If you dont have that many sockets, you might as well buy a cheap kit. You can get most everything youll need for your whole car (in terms of sockets/wrenches) for less than 100 bucks - you might even get away with a 30 to 50 dollar tool kit if you go for a cheaper brand.
walmart and lowes have the cheaper brands. sears/craftsman stuff isnt too expensive, but you can get pretty good discounts on it through ace hardware, as theyre always having sales on craftsman tools. Sears also has a cheaper line called "evolv". While the cheaper tools may not be ideal for a professional mechanic or someone who does a lot of work, theyre fine for the occasional work while saving you from spending big bucks on snap-on or matco brand stuff.
Last edited by el es tu; Jun 13, 2012 at 07:49 AM.
My stock ones were 18 mm, but it seems like you need an open ended wrench for one side. If you are putting back stock links then I wouldn't think it would matter about preloading the bar as it will be what it is. If they are adj endlinks, then it would have to be pretty much neutral. I had mine up on ramps to get them adj with no preload. The rears you can reach without having to lift. I can't remember if I added weight to driver seat to allow for my fat butt or if that even matters with sways. Good luck with it.
worn endlinks will still work (not as well as they should though), but theyll make a clunking sound.
what you can do to test them (when everything is installed on the car) is carefully grab the bar near the link (or even the link itself) and trying to wiggle it up and down. if everything is tight, the bar wont move - if the link is loose youll get movement up and down and hear a click or clunk sound.
other sounds from the rear can be worn control arm bushings, worn or missing spring pad, lack of lubricant on the spring pad contact point(s), rear axle (loose nut(s) or corrosion to the splines and /or lack of lubrication to the splines).
hope this helps!
Last edited by el es tu; Jun 17, 2012 at 09:07 AM.
this would be covered under warranty, yes? ims still under 3yr/36mi. there is no play in the endlinks at all and i can't reproduce the sound while under the car. clunking is heard over rough road at slow speeds only.