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Guys,
yesterday I thought that I needed a battery in my 2008 coupe (still on the original) when the car failed to start for the first time ever. It turns out it was the FOB which couldnt be detected due to its own weak battery. The moment of uncertainty made me pause and think of ways to avoid losing all of my settings when I do have to finally replace the original Delco battery.
First of all, what's the best (regardless of cost) battery that will fit our C-6? Is it another AC Delco, Interstate, Sears Die Hard Gold, Oddyssey?
Secondly, is it possible to use a 9-volt device that plugs into the cigarette lighter to save all of the settings (including window indexings), radio presets, seat memory, etc? And if the answer is yes, where do I get such a plug in?
I look forward to all comments.
thanks in advance
You'll find lots of opinions here as to "best" battery. Personally I suspect they're all fine if properly cared for. The only thing you lose when replacing a battery is window indexing, so that's not worth being concerned about.
Not sure, but since you will lose the window indexing, does that make it harder to open the driver door to get in and re-index? If so, leave the driver window down for the work.
We lost the indexing when our battery was replaced, and maybe the memory seat positions. Radio presets, nav info, etc; all stayed normal.
Another thing to think of about a battery swap is if your State inspection includes plugging in to the OBD. Close to Inspection re-newal? Might want to wait for the disconnect.
When you disconnect a battery in a C6 you lose the "drive cycle" memory and will fail a State Inspection unless you complete a number of "drive cycles" well before Inspection time.
I don't remember seeing anything here telling us exactly what settings that 9-volt device saves. And please note that I'm talking about an experience with it, not what it's advertised to save.
If you buy one and use it, make it a point to come back here and tell us what settings it saved or did not save, if you have time and it's convenient.
The 9 volt device will preserve settings when you change batteries.
Doubt it man. I've tried mine on 3 modern cars, and didn't work on any of them. As soon as you connect something to a 'hot' 12V receptacle (a 'cold' one wouldn't do you any good), the car 'wakes up', and all kinds of crap start running, which quickly overwhelms the little battery, and you lose everything anyway. Haven't tried it on the Vette, but everytime I open the door, I can hear something spinning on the dash, plus all interior lights come on. And with something connected, car does NOT go into sleep mode. Plus with such low voltage, something could get messed up, although it hasn't happened to me (yet ). I'll try it out of curiosity when I change the battery (soon), but don't expect it to work. If it doesn't, will throw it away . Finally, just reindexing the windows is not a big deal at all.
From: US-ARMY 1974-1996 Retired ; Oklahoma, City ; Atlanta, Ga: Hephzibah, Ga
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Not sure, but since you will lose the window indexing, does that make it harder to open the driver door to get in and re-index? If so, leave the driver window down for the work.
We lost the indexing when our battery was replaced, and maybe the memory seat positions. Radio presets, nav info, etc; all stayed normal.
So that's why I didn't have to index the windows. I had both windows down before I disconnected the battery. Learn something new every day. Had to fix that rusted trun signal connector. Works great now.
Doubt it man. I've tried mine on 3 modern cars, and didn't work on any of them. As soon as you connect something to a 'hot' 12V receptacle (a 'cold' one wouldn't do you any good), the car 'wakes up', and all kinds of crap start running, which quickly overwhelms the little battery, and you lose everything anyway. Haven't tried it on the Vette, but everytime I open the door, I can hear something spinning on the dash, plus all interior lights come on. And with something connected, car does NOT go into sleep mode. Plus with such low voltage, something could get messed up, although it hasn't happened to me (yet ). I'll try it out of curiosity when I change the battery (soon), but don't expect it to work. If it doesn't, will throw it away . Finally, just reindexing the windows is not a big deal at all.
Guys,
yesterday I thought that I needed a battery in my 2008 coupe (still on the original) when the car failed to start for the first time ever. It turns out it was the FOB which couldnt be detected due to its own weak battery. The moment of uncertainty made me pause and think of ways to avoid losing all of my settings when I do have to finally replace the original Delco battery.
I think the only things that require re-setting are the windows and the clock.
This makes sense. GM isn't going to overwrite a nonvolatile memory every time you run the window. Those memories have a finite number of write cycles.
It's easy to reset both so I wouldn't bother with the plug-in gizmo.
As for best battery, I have no complaints about the OE unit. I would change it before it dies, though - I did mine at 4 years or so, and afterwards the car shifted more smoothly! How is this possible? Well, the old one drew more current, which made for a greater load on the alternator and consequently a rougher idle. No kidding. Happened so gradually I hadn't noticed.
Last edited by torquetube; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: Removed silly example of rewriting current time to NV memory. Time doesn't just pick up where it left off.
I think the only things that require re-setting are the windows and the clock.
This makes sense. GM isn't going to overwrite a nonvolatile memory every time you run the window, or after every tick of the clock. Those memories have a finite number of write cycles.
It's easy to reset both so I wouldn't bother with the plug-in gizmo.
As for best battery, I have no complaints about the OE unit. I would change it before it dies, though - I did mine at 4 years or so, and afterwards the car shifted more smoothly! How is this possible? Well, the old one drew more current, which made for a greater load on the alternator and consequently a rougher idle. No kidding. Happened so gradually I hadn't noticed.
The times I have had my battery disconnected, I had to reinitialize the windows and reset the seat memory positions after powering back up. Nothing else was affected during the power outage. My clock was never affected.
I have the AutoZone DuraLast batteries on all four of my cars. Great warranty, great prices, and if you do need a warranty replacement, AutoZone has plenty of stores.
The times I have had my battery disconnected, I had to reinitialize the windows and reset the seat memory positions after powering back up. Nothing else was affected during the power outage. My clock was never affected.
There must be a backup power store in the radio in order to continue running the clock. I've had to reset the clock after battery disconnects.
torquetube,
how old was your car and how many miles did it have when you changed batteries? Mine is an '08 (went into service in Nov '07) and currently has 23K miles. Never drive it in town, all highway. What do you think? Is it time, how can I tell?
I forgot to mention- after changing the battery, all four tire pressures read 0 on the DIC until I drove around the block. Re-training was not necessary, they came back to life by themselves after a short drive.
torquetube,
how old was your car and how many miles did it have when you changed batteries? Mine is an '08 (went into service in Nov '07) and currently has 23K miles. Never drive it in town, all highway. What do you think? Is it time, how can I tell?
As with climbing ropes, the goal is to replace the battery _before_ it fails. In my case, I'd seen a few spurious warnings appear on the DIC at startup so I got out the 'scope and noticed that the voltage would drop briefly into the mid-7s during cranking. The car had never failed to start. That was at 60K miles and after 3.5 years.
With the new battery, the car cranked faster, idled more smoothy, shifted better for the reason I mentioned in my previous post, and the warnings went away.
The usual advice is to replace the battery every 3-5 years. Sounds like you're about there.