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Was hoping to get your opinions on this. Ive done a search and really was surprised to see not that many with the same issue.
There are times when my 6-speed wont go into the reverse gear position. Push the clutch in, but its locked out. I change my clutch fluid regularly with the Ranger method. Originally, I thought it was the fluid, as when I'd change the fluid, pump the clutch 30 times with the car off, and it would work again for a bit. Now Im realizing its just the pumping action with the car off that is doing the trick. I'm starting to get into too many situations where I have to shut the car off to put it in reverse (it goes in no problem with the clutch depressed when I shut the car off and restart in gear).
I was originally thinking something is loose or mis-alligned but beginning to fear its something with the master or slave clutch cylinder? I have no problem with shifting into other gears with the clutch depressed or downshifting on the highway.
What do you guys think is going on? I have an extended warranty but know the clutch/clutch components are not covered. Thanks again guys.
It's possible may have come out of alignment...there is an adjustment on the shifter box bolts.
But since you can always put it in reverse when the car is shut off I suspect your reverse lockout solenoid on the top of the transmission has gone bad. I had one go bad that wouldn't lockout reverse...it was scary how easily I'd hit reverse trying to go to 5th.
It's an easy replacement for a well trained tech. My tech at my shop jacked up the rear of my car and swapped it in just a few minutes while I waited.
I have the same problem but mine doesn't want to go in reverse any time. Have to push real hard even after you go in a forward gear, If the solenoid
was bad it would go into gear easy? I thought the solenoid was to keep it
from going in when the car is moving forward. I thought it might be because I have a short throw shifter so I alighed the box and shifter and it didn't help.
Was hoping to get your opinions on this. Ive done a search and really was surprised to see not that many with the same issue.
There are times when my 6-speed wont go into the reverse gear position. Push the clutch in, but its locked out. I change my clutch fluid regularly with the Ranger method. Originally, I thought it was the fluid, as when I'd change the fluid, pump the clutch 30 times with the car off, and it would work again for a bit. Now Im realizing its just the pumping action with the car off that is doing the trick. I'm starting to get into too many situations where I have to shut the car off to put it in reverse (it goes in no problem with the clutch depressed when I shut the car off and restart in gear).
I was originally thinking something is loose or mis-alligned but beginning to fear its something with the master or slave clutch cylinder? I have no problem with shifting into other gears with the clutch depressed or downshifting on the highway.
What do you guys think is going on? I have an extended warranty but know the clutch/clutch components are not covered. Thanks again guys.
My '05 still does that frequently. If I clutch-neutral-clutch reverse I'm good. It's habitual now. Synchros off a bit.
Thanks guys. Do you think the synchros or the lockout solonoid +
would be a warranty covered parts?
Years ago they covered it if the car would be locked out of first something like more than 10-15% of the time. Reverse might be the same.
Mine is rarely a problem with reverse since I habitually go to neutral or first before I go to reverse. My '90 Miata did the same thing. My tranny might balk at going into first maybe 5% of the time. And it has done this since day one, Oct '04.
Years ago they covered it if the car would be locked out of first something like more than 10-15% of the time. Reverse might be the same.
Mine is rarely a problem with reverse since I habitually go to neutral or first before I go to reverse. My '90 Miata did the same thing. My tranny might balk at going into first maybe 5% of the time. And it has done this since day one, Oct '04.
Funny thing is, for years I had to frequently double clutch into 1st, now I never have a problem. Going into reverse now is very "tight" even when its not acting up. Just weird??
Has the rear cradle, driveline been out of the car ever?? This was a norm for my c5. Come to find out the wires to the reverse lockout were broken from a careless mechanic. Problem fixed after reconnecting the wires. Also another instance where the c5 wouldn't stay in reverse without me firmly holding the shifter in place, I found that the linkage from the shifter to the trans was cracked (on the shifter end). This kept it from fully going into gear So it would also pop out.
Was hoping to get your opinions on this. Ive done a search and really was surprised to see not that many with the same issue.
There are times when my 6-speed wont go into the reverse gear position. Push the clutch in, but its locked out. I change my clutch fluid regularly with the Ranger method. Originally, I thought it was the fluid, as when I'd change the fluid, pump the clutch 30 times with the car off, and it would work again for a bit. Now Im realizing its just the pumping action with the car off that is doing the trick. I'm starting to get into too many situations where I have to shut the car off to put it in reverse (it goes in no problem with the clutch depressed when I shut the car off and restart in gear).
I was originally thinking something is loose or mis-alligned but beginning to fear its something with the master or slave clutch cylinder? I have no problem with shifting into other gears with the clutch depressed or downshifting on the highway.
What do you guys think is going on? I have an extended warranty but know the clutch/clutch components are not covered. Thanks again guys.
Have you recently installed a skip shift eliminator? A few months ago, I remember a friend telling me about one being installed incorrectly and it made it very difficult to shift the car into reverse. if I remember the story correctly, it was installed on connector for the reverse lockout solenoid instead of the connector for the CAGS.
There are times when my 6-speed wont go into the reverse gear position. Push the clutch in, but its locked out
When you can't get it into reverse, can you get over to the reverse gate or not? The reverse lockout solenoid will prevent you from getting over to the reverse gate. You can overcome the solenoid if you push hard enough, though. If you are being stuck in the 5-6 gate, then it's the solenoid or a control/wiring issue.
If the solenoid IS working properly, then you should be able to easily get past the 5-6 gate and into the reverse gate. If you can easily get into the gate, but can't slide the shifter forward into reverse, then that's a synchro or linkage type issue.
Hope that helps
Last edited by Streetk14; Aug 1, 2012 at 08:40 PM.
If you can easily get into the gate, but can't slide the shifter forward into reverse, then that's a synchro or linkage type issue.
Reverse has no synchros, since you're not supposed to engage it with the car moving.
The biggest problem with reverse is catching the gears aligned in a way they cannot mesh. The trick is to mesh them before the input shaft stops moving. You have less than a second after depressing the clutch. Do it right and it goes in every time. For a perfect (and silent) engagement, I always move the shift lever to a forward gear then quickly into reverse, so gears mesh while barely moving. It goes in nice and smoothly every time. Try it. Good luck.
I'll agree with a bad or non activating reverse lockout solenoid. This solenoid is designed to prevent an accidental engagement into reverse when conditions are not acceptable. An inhibitor may be a better name because it doesn't really lock you out. You can overcome the spring by pushing harder to the right. Moving forward more than 3 mph (5 km/h) will activate the solenoid and inhibit an accidental reverse gear engagement. Check for codes P0801.
This solenoid is activated by the ECM grounding the circuit to activate it.
When the ECM commands the solenoid ON the voltage on the solenoid is very low, almost zero. This means the solenoid spring is going to lock out reverse. You can still access reverse by pushing a little harder to the right to overcome the spring.
When the ECM commands the the control circuit to the reverse lock out solenoid OFF, the voltage should be high, nearly battery voltage. This causes the spring in the solenoid to be compressed allowing an easier shift into reverse.
If the solenoid is burned out it should set a code P0801
And just an FYI, reverse gear is synchronized in the six speed T56 and TR6060.
I will also tell you...if the reverse solenoid is bad and not functioning at all, the car will want to fall into reverse when you try to select 5th...you have to have a very deliberate shifting motion to prevent grinding.
And just an FYI, reverse gear is synchronized in the six speed T56 and TR6060.
Originally Posted by ELP_JC
Reverse has no synchros, since you're not supposed to engage it with the car moving.
The reverse lockout solenoid is actually released at speeds under 3 MPH or so, so it is designed to be put into reverse when the car is moving. It's also fully synchronized, as mentioned above by the guy who knows more about Tremec transmissions than me
I had a T56 in my LS1 '67 Camaro, and I had to modify the reverse lockout spring to get the tension just right. Since I didn't have an easy way to activate it electrically on that car, it was the best option. I can tell you that with no power going to the solenoid (or a jammed solenoid), it's damn hard to get into the reverse gate.
Thanks guys for all the helpful info. Since reverse is synchronized, it has to be either the synchros or some linkage issue. For the past few days, i can go in all gears with ease and no issues. Ive had to "double clutch" into reverse one time (same way I do in 1st occasionally), but that's it. If the solenoid was bad, I wouldnt be able to get the shifter all the way to the right, laterally enough to get into the reverse shift gate. Also, I dont suspect this sporadic behavior which improves with clutch action would be consistent with a bad solenoid.
The reverse lockout solenoid is actually released at speeds under 3 MPH or so, so it is designed to be put into reverse when the car is moving. It's also fully synchronized, as mentioned above by the guy who knows more about Tremec transmissions than me
What?
Originally Posted by Streetk14
I had a T56 in my LS1 '67 Camaro, and I had to modify the reverse lockout spring to get the tension just right. Since I didn't have an easy way to activate it electrically on that car, it was the best option. I can tell you that with no power going to the solenoid (or a jammed solenoid), it's damn hard to get into the reverse gate.
It's not that difficult to overcome the solenoid if it isn't jammed. You need to eat your wheaties!
I was assuming you know more about them than me. My point was you and I agreed that reverse is synchronized and you're the expert. JC thought it was not.
It's not that difficult to overcome the solenoid if it isn't jammed. You need to eat your wheaties!
I dunno... But the F-body T56 I had was pretty tough. Maybe it was the B&M shifter or the non-stock shifter location.