Clicking start push button
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: Chandler AZ
I don't worry about having the Tender if I'm regularly driving the car, but if it's gonna sit for a few days or more at home, I hook it up. If a modern battery is in a good state of charge, it should hold sufficient voltage to last several weeks or more without needing to be hooked up. Our cars, like others such as the Viper, draw small amounts of power when they are off, and are fickle when it comes to the batteries not being fully charged.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,596
Likes: 120
From: East Tennessee
My '12 has clicked, engine light on and no crank when pushing the button twice since new (both times while stopping somewhere when driving). My '07 and '08 would do that too occasionally. Its probably something with the fob not being right when it goes to start, the fob/pushbutton start on these hasnt really been updated since '05 and they do have their occasional quirks.
As mentioned the 'clicking' noise behind the dash is normal when you go to start it, it bothered me when I bought my first C6 in '06 but I'm used to it by now..
As mentioned the 'clicking' noise behind the dash is normal when you go to start it, it bothered me when I bought my first C6 in '06 but I'm used to it by now..
Last edited by kp; Aug 4, 2012 at 06:00 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: Chandler AZ
My '12 has clicked, engine light on and no crank when pushing the button twice since new (both times while stopping somewhere when driving). My '07 and '08 would do that too occasionally. Its probably something with the fob not being right when it goes to start, the fob/pushbutton start on these hasnt really been updated since '05 and they do have their occasional quirks.
As mentioned the 'clicking' noise behind the dash is normal when you go to start it, it bothered me when I bought my first C6 in '06 but I'm used to it by now..
As mentioned the 'clicking' noise behind the dash is normal when you go to start it, it bothered me when I bought my first C6 in '06 but I'm used to it by now..
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,596
Likes: 120
From: East Tennessee
I agree with this^, but mine has never clicked. Very rarely, after pushing the start button, the dash will light, the needles will move as normal, but it won't start. I wait a sec, push it again, and it always starts the second time. I agree it's probably just a small, temporary electronic glitch, possibly related to the fob's location. Never had it click though....
The other times it happened on my other C6s it may or may have not clicked and done what you have described, I just dont remember
I'm used to the fob weirdness though so I dont pay much attention, 50% of the time the hatch wont open from the back if I walk up to it locked, 10% of the time the door wont open when locked the first time, warning for the fob in the car when I'm walking away with the fob in my pocket etc, all my C6s had did the same things. I daily drive them so I start stop at least 3 times a day..
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I have done this and had it go completely dead to the point where I manually opened the doors to get out (no electricity). Then gone back to the trunk and was able to open it with the regular switch! Got back in and it started up!
Makes me think it wasn't sensing the key fob.
Makes me think it wasn't sensing the key fob.
Last edited by Scooter275; Aug 5, 2012 at 09:36 AM. Reason: spelling
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I have done this and had it go completely dead to the point where I manually opened the doors to get out (no electricity). Then gone back to the trunk and was able to open it with the regular switch! Got back in and it started up! Makes me think it wasn't sensing the key fob.
Makes me think it wasn't sensing the key fob.
seems to be better
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SUBVETTE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 93
From: San Diego CA
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 314
Likes: 4
From: Ontario
As Pete pointed out, the computer systems can be fickle if the voltage isn't right where it should be. I was talking to a car friend who worked in GM and worked on cars that stumped the dealers' mechanics. He cringes at the thought of even owning one of these cars. He's seen too many problems. He also stated that good connections at the battery or anywhere in the car including grounds have to be perfect or you start to get warning messages. The old cars were relatively simple to diagnose. This stuff can be a nightmare.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 13,308
Likes: 2,510
From: Bluffton SC via Canton Oh
I'd describe the noise on my new GS as an electrical arching. Does not sound right to me. I have a Cadi with button start and it does not make any arching noise. Plus on two occasions I hit the button and got nothing. Hit the off side, and hit on and it started up. I'm thinking I have an electrical issue brewing.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 512
Likes: 11
From: Roseville California
I had the same issue. I went to my mechanic and it turned out to be a loose Negative cable clamp on the battery. I was experiencing a slow start, almost like a low battery, and after the Negative was tightened the puppy starts right up. Just something to think about.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: East Peoria Illinois
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
My '12 dry-sump GS (battery in hatch) has done it a couple of times too, and with battery fully charged. It's a cacophony of relay noises behind the ignition button. A third time it did the same thing... BUT I pressed the lower part of the button, rather than the top 
. At least the first time I'm positive I pressed the green (upper) button. Another possible issue for us manual owners is not depressing the clutch pedal all the way in. And the third, and probably what happened to me at least the first time is interference. There were a bunch of overhead power lines in that area. But the second time it fired up right away. Hasn't happened in a few months, so definitely normal. All modern cars, with all their electronic crap, will have 'idiosyncrasies' like that, unfortunately. My ex M3 didn't recognize the damn fob 8 out of 10 times. THAT was really annoying. This I can definitely live with. No sense in even mentioning to a dealer if it's sporadic and not repeatable. Good luck.
. At least the first time I'm positive I pressed the green (upper) button. Another possible issue for us manual owners is not depressing the clutch pedal all the way in. And the third, and probably what happened to me at least the first time is interference. There were a bunch of overhead power lines in that area. But the second time it fired up right away. Hasn't happened in a few months, so definitely normal. All modern cars, with all their electronic crap, will have 'idiosyncrasies' like that, unfortunately. My ex M3 didn't recognize the damn fob 8 out of 10 times. THAT was really annoying. This I can definitely live with. No sense in even mentioning to a dealer if it's sporadic and not repeatable. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,742
Likes: 629
From: Manheim Pennsylvania
As Pete pointed out, the computer systems can be fickle if the voltage isn't right where it should be. I was talking to a car friend who worked in GM and worked on cars that stumped the dealers' mechanics. He cringes at the thought of even owning one of these cars. He's seen too many problems. He also stated that good connections at the battery or anywhere in the car including grounds have to be perfect or you start to get warning messages. The old cars were relatively simple to diagnose. This stuff can be a nightmare.
Good reason to not keep these computer operated cars to long. Wire/connector corrosion will be a nightmare in the future. Mileage/usage actually will not accelerate this terminal corrosion, may even slow the process.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,151
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I keep hearing some folks say that they checked there battery voltage and it was 12 volts or more, but, for some reason it still won't start the car.
Well, battery voltage is only one piece of the puzzle ... The other is cranking amps ... Sure, you can have 12+ volts, but if the battery has little to no cranking amps, the car won't start.
That clicking noise you hear is just the starter's solenoid trying to engage the starter .... If you have a battery with no cranking amps left, then that clicking sound is all your going to get when pressing the start button.
Buy a new battery !
Well, battery voltage is only one piece of the puzzle ... The other is cranking amps ... Sure, you can have 12+ volts, but if the battery has little to no cranking amps, the car won't start.
That clicking noise you hear is just the starter's solenoid trying to engage the starter .... If you have a battery with no cranking amps left, then that clicking sound is all your going to get when pressing the start button.
Buy a new battery !
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 71
whats scary is guys messing with dead batteries and jumper cables on these cars............electrical system hates them. guys need stop playing with dead batteries and just replace them. BCM's ECU's, starters, and connections all get stressed out w low voltages. all that clicking your hearing is stuff trying to work without proper battery voltage. Use jumper cables only if your life depends on it, in most cases it wont. i left the big words out. simple