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Clutch issues are BACK

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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 12:58 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ccw
The problem is not with your clutch. If your clutch isn't slipping and is just not coming all the back up after shifts, it's because your master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid. The stock LS7 and LS9 master cylinders from GM are crap. Get the tick unit. Problem solved.
Thanks for the advice. Ill try to pick one up sooner rather than later and see how it goes.

Thanks everyone for the advice. It saved me from pulling the whole drivetrain out of the car.... AGAIN..
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 02:29 PM
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If you don't mind a stiffer pedal then get the tick, you can simulate the feel with removing th assist spring as that will have to be done with the tick. My fear of the clutch could be the steel insert is warped as I have seen many times before and the unparallel surfaces will never allow the clutch to get full clamping force. Does it feel like the engagement point has changed at all since the new clutch was installed?
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PRE-Z06
If you don't mind a stiffer pedal then get the tick, you can simulate the feel with removing th assist spring as that will have to be done with the tick. My fear of the clutch could be the steel insert is warped as I have seen many times before and the unparallel surfaces will never allow the clutch to get full clamping force. Does it feel like the engagement point has changed at all since the new clutch was installed?
I didn't notice any but I didn't drive the car for about 8 months since the old clutch to the new one. The pedal engagement feels fine to me and it grabs hard. There is no slip at all. But I am a little scared it is warped as well since it didn't have any problem shifting at high rpm with the stock clutch. I don't see why a ls7 clutch and aluminum flywheel would cause it unless there is a problem with it.

Does anyone have an explanation for this?? Like with actual knowledge and reason to back it up. I don't want to spend $300 on a master cylinder an it not work.
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 06:34 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SpecialSause
I didn't notice any but I didn't drive the car for about 8 months since the old clutch to the new one. The pedal engagement feels fine to me and it grabs hard. There is no slip at all. But I am a little scared it is warped as well since it didn't have any problem shifting at high rpm with the stock clutch. I don't see why a ls7 clutch and aluminum flywheel would cause it unless there is a problem with it.

Does anyone have an explanation for this?? Like with actual knowledge and reason to back it up. I don't want to spend $300 on a master cylinder an it not work.
As a follow up to my previous post, here is an article worth reading

http://www.torcavettes.com/tech/ClutchHydraulics.htm
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SpecialSause
I didn't notice any but I didn't drive the car for about 8 months since the old clutch to the new one. The pedal engagement feels fine to me and it grabs hard. There is no slip at all. But I am a little scared it is warped as well since it didn't have any problem shifting at high rpm with the stock clutch. I don't see why a ls7 clutch and aluminum flywheel would cause it unless there is a problem with it.

Does anyone have an explanation for this?? Like with actual knowledge and reason to back it up. I don't want to spend $300 on a master cylinder an it not work.
Here is another possibility that I just went thru last weekend. My slave cylinder was out quite a bit and I had to shim it as the article shows. I will do a full thread on this after I prove my clutch will last now. I went thru 4 clutches, and this could have been why as I was never getting full release and would creep forward when trying to stage. All my clutches burned up in less than a year.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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My point on the above link is, did the installer of your clutch measure that slave clearance ? Every clutch brand,from tip of the fingers to the face of the bell house, seems to have a different measurement compared to the pilot to torque tube face (which should be a constant, but I am now wondering about that).
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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The factory parts have tolerances too and if they(back of crank, both sides of bellhousing and face of torque tube) are all off in the wrong direction that can add up to a sizable difference so it is always best to measure. OP bring that your car sat for a long time it very well could be the seals in the master aren't working as well.
Originally Posted by pit-man
My point on the above link is, did the installer of your clutch measure that slave clearance ? Every clutch brand,from tip of the fingers to the face of the bell house, seems to have a different measurement compared to the pilot to torque tube face (which should be a constant, but I am now wondering about that).
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pit-man
My point on the above link is, did the installer of your clutch measure that slave clearance ? Every clutch brand,from tip of the fingers to the face of the bell house, seems to have a different measurement compared to the pilot to torque tube face (which should be a constant, but I am now wondering about that).
Originally Posted by PRE-Z06
The factory parts have tolerances too and if they(back of crank, both sides of bellhousing and face of torque tube) are all off in the wrong direction that can add up to a sizable difference so it is always best to measure. OP bring that your car sat for a long time it very well could be the seals in the master aren't working as well.
How are you suppose to measure for a shim if there is no way to see inside the bell housing. On the c5 there was an inspection plate there is none on the c6. So I did not shim it.

I think a hurricane is about to hit were I live this coming week so I may have to take a break from solving this problem.

Thanks for the article btw both of them were very informative. They lead me to believe a tick-master would solve my problem.
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Old Aug 24, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SpecialSause
How are you suppose to measure for a shim if there is no way to see inside the bell housing. On the c5 there was an inspection plate there is none on the c6. So I did not shim it.

I think a hurricane is about to hit were I live this coming week so I may have to take a break from solving this problem.

Thanks for the article btw both of them were very informative. They lead me to believe a tick-master would solve my problem.
You have to measure with torque tube out...next time clutch is out. I will never install another with out checking.

I'm sweating this storm too here near Jax Fl. I am surrounded by trees.

Check your Master as Chris say's if it sat for awhile. Just get the Tic and be done with it.
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 01:05 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pit-man
You have to measure with torque tube out...next time clutch is out. I will never install another with out checking.

I'm sweating this storm too here near Jax Fl. I am surrounded by trees.

Check your Master as Chris say's if it sat for awhile. Just get the Tic and be done with it.
The master cylinder is brand new but if te tick doesn't fix it im just going to get a new clutch and I will be sure to measure.
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