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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Just saw this thread & forgot I'd posted last fall...My '12 GS 1LT 6spd coupe started life out at 3,260;

-removed 90% of washer fluid, FRC's, intake cover & misc for @ 12 lbs
-Pfadt headers & x-pipe dropped 27lbs
-Finspeed 2piece rotors will drop 32lbs (rotational)
-Michelin Pilot ss will drop 12 lbs (rotational)
-Shorai lio battery will drop 30 lbs..or @ 3,150.

I think I'm done for now & am interested to see how this feels @ Laguna Seca next month.
You'll feel it.

I dropped form 3250 to 3165 and went from 11.2@124 to 10.99@126...a consistent .2 and 2 mph gain on the drag strip.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Joe G, impressive numbers...I've read lots of your posts & they're always informative & helpful...much obliged. Now I need to improve my driving skills to do justice to the car...

I just remembered I dropped the 2nd pair of cats from the stock '12 x-pipe & I think they're @ 5-10lbs each...looking forward to checking my corner weight & see how it all ends up.
Very kind of you to say, thank you! Made my day.

I remember when I first started in my C5 convertible, I got yelled at because I was barely breaking 13.99.

I've come a long way.

This website will help you out a LOT. It did me, both launching and shifting. Study his words and listen to his launches. Ranger is an excellent coach. I'm very happy to have met him in person at the track in 2010, a fine gentleman indeed, he coached 3 people to new PB's that evening.

You probably don't want to listen to my launches when you are first starting out...you need a little practice to know how to do this or you'll break things.

www.rangeracceleration.com
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #83  
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Weighed the car last month with the TSW wheels/Lighter torque converter/Exhaust changes.

With the low gas just coming on it was 3140.

Last few days i have added a glass roof -5lbs.
Also removed wipers since i never use them.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 10:53 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by ShaneFap
Weighed the car last month with the TSW wheels/Lighter torque converter/Exhaust changes.

With the low gas just coming on it was 3140.

Last few days i have added a glass roof -5lbs.
Also removed wipers since i never use them.
mustang mod
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 01:19 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Devilish34
mustang mod
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:01 AM
  #86  
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I know there is a good deal of info on lighter z06 rotors, but how about z51 rotors? There is a lot of weight to be lost with tires, wheels, and rotors. And that's important weight to drop.
I would love to drop 100-150 pounds of weight, with 50+ in rotational mass.

I'm glad that the more intelligent members of this board have emerged, as well.

Last edited by NCorvette; Mar 1, 2013 at 09:16 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Just saw this thread & forgot I'd posted last fall...My '12 GS 1LT 6spd coupe started life out at 3,260;

-removed 90% of washer fluid, FRC's, intake cover & misc for @ 12 lbs
-Pfadt headers & x-pipe dropped 27lbs
-Finspeed 2piece rotors will drop 32lbs (rotational)
-Michelin Pilot ss will drop 12 lbs (rotational)
-Shorai lio battery will drop 30 lbs..or @ 3,150.

I think I'm done for now & am interested to see how this feels @ Laguna Seca next month.

Have heard these exist but have never seen them. Can post a pic?
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by LEAVINU
Have heard these exist but have never seen them. Can post a pic?
JustinJor is selling a set look at the c6 parts for sale section.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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Ya I have my DBA 5000 rotors for sale in my part-out thread. They've been on the car about a year.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 12:48 AM
  #90  
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I use the base rotors and drilled them to match the same pattern as my F55/Z51 rotors. 66# for all 4 vs 81# for the larger ones.

With the rollbar installed, it's around 3060 race ready.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I use the base rotors and drilled them to match the same pattern as my F55/Z51 rotors. 66# for all 4 vs 81# for the larger ones.

With the rollbar installed, it's around 3060 race ready.
For anyone reading, this is what not to do.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Audacious Nick
For anyone reading, this is what not to do.
Care to explain?
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 12:04 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by ZRCLONE
@ 7lbs per gallon, I know the washer tank holds at least if not more than a gallon. Don't use the stuff anyway, so now its empty! Cost, $0
I don't use it either but I see my tank is full. How do you drain it? Siphon it or is there a plug some where?
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 07:59 PM
  #94  
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My method:
Better diet
Regular gym appearences
Starting running more

Sorry, been a while since Ive made a smart *** remark on CR
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Leavinu, I was going to buy the Zip Corvette 2-piece rotors w/ Coleman rings as they're also a 32 lbs weight savings (20# front, 12# rear), but was having a hard time justifying the $1,500+.

I didn't even know about the Finspeed's until they showed up for sale here & the $1,200 price point was easier to stomach. They look almost exactly the same too, so I wonder if FS makes them for Zip? The DBA 5000's are very nice too, but I'm not sure they're as light, but could be wrong @ that. I would definitely look into Juic3d's rotors for your coupe.

If the rotors are zinc coated that's a huge benefit as I have to paint the non-swept area of the coleman rotors to keep them from rusting & looking awful.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...ors-c6z06.html
I'd question the exact weight, rather than how much savings it'd be. You also need to know how much your current rotors weigh. New J55 rotors weigh 21# each and base rotors are 19#, so to lose 20# for the pair seems doubtful.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #96  
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San,

I appreciate the reply. I have one more question, then I'll get out your hair. Do you believe the smaller 12 cell battery would work just fine also? I ask because it still has more cca than the Deka that you were using @ 410 amps and 20 AH. I would think that it would be fine being a higher cca? I'm overseas at the moment and am trying to get everything purchased for my toys to be ready to use them when I get back.

Brett
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:34 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Hoxxoh, check out the master parts weight list; 26.6 & 19.9 for the stock front & rears.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...ight-list.html

Finspeed;
http://store.finspeed.com/Z06-Front-...C6-Z06CR-F.htm

Zip Corvette;
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={47bb7d5b-b4ec-4868-972a-c719658bcba0}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=Performance+Brake+Rotors&
Ah yes! I missed that you have a GS with the heavy rotors. Oops!
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Care to explain?
From what I have read, is that during the heat cycles on drilled brake rotors, some drivers have found hairline stress fractures near the drilled points. As for real world race car rotors, most of them are flat face. If you would like a high quality lightweight brake rotor, then I would recommend - http://shop.performanceafx.com/C6-Z51-Corvette_c15.htm I believe this is what the other poster was getting at.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Gering
From what I have read, is that during the heat cycles on drilled brake rotors, some drivers have found hairline stress fractures near the drilled points. As for real world race car rotors, most of them are flat face. If you would like a high quality lightweight brake rotor, then I would recommend - http://shop.performanceafx.com/C6-Z51-Corvette_c15.htm I believe this is what the other poster was getting at.
The hairline fractures commonly happen on the drilled OEM rotors too. Whether it's a problem, depends on how hot they got and how evenly they cooled. You can kill a non-drilled rotor the same way.

I've been using drilled base rotors for at least 40,000 miles, which includes lots of 125 mph stops at the drags. They're in comparable condition to the OEM J55 rotors that I replaced. The key is to get even cooling. Never stay on the brakes or completely stop after a major heating event.

I suspect the other poster was thinking that only major manufacturers knew how to drill rotors. While it's not for everybody, with the right skillset it can be done safely.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
The hairline fractures commonly happen on the drilled OEM rotors too. Whether it's a problem, depends on how hot they got and how evenly they cooled. You can kill a non-drilled rotor the same way.

I've been using drilled base rotors for at least 40,000 miles, which includes lots of 125 mph stops at the drags. They're in comparable condition to the OEM J55 rotors that I replaced. The key is to get even cooling. Never stay on the brakes or completely stop after a major heating event.

I suspect the other poster was thinking that only major manufacturers knew how to drill rotors. While it's not for everybody, with the right skillset it can be done safely.
Pretty much every rotor is fine for use at the dragstrip. One hard brake every 10-20 minutes is very easy compared to the hard braking every fee seconds at a brake-heavy road course. Drilled rotors are known to crack much faster at severe duty, and Brembo big brake kits, for instance, don't even list track as possible application for their drilled kits, while they list track for their other kits.

Last edited by X25; Mar 11, 2013 at 03:37 PM.
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