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I would like to make this thread all about weight reduction. Like a one stop thread for anyone to make their car lighter. Unfortunately I'm not really a wealth of info when it comes to this so hopefully some of you can contribute. If you can include an estimate of how much weight is taken out per mod that would be great.
So far all I know of is:
1.exhaust, maybe 60lbs for full exhaust?
2. Aluminum flywheel, 20lbs
3. I have no knowledge about removing seats or any interior pieces. So if someone could chime in on it that would be great.
Sooo that's it. Hah again any input would be great.
Gasoline is 6 lbs/gal, so if you can run with a little less in the tank...
But except for serious racing, it will be hard to tell the difference.
A base C6 w/ driver and some gas is around 8 lbs/hp. So if you take 80 pounds out of the car, that's about like gaining 10 hp. For street use, you can ruin the usefulness of the car and gain only a little performance. But competition on a track, 'nuther story.
There's a lot of info on the Z06 forum, including a recent weight reduction competition between Cartek and Halltech.
My '08 LT2 F55 coupe originally weighed in about 3260 with a slight amount of gas. On a road trip to FL, I weighed in 3210 at PBIR in street trim with the low gas warning on. Race ready, I've been as low as 2925.
So now some questions.
Are you building a track only car?
Are you willing to actually destroy the car? (never to return to street use)
How much are you willing to spend?
What are your limitations?
Other than weight reduction, what other mods do you have or planning?
What is your ultimate goal?
There's a lot of info on the Z06 forum, including a recent weight reduction competition between Cartek and Halltech.
My '08 LT2 F55 coupe originally weighed in about 3260 with a slight amount of gas. On a road trip to FL, I weighed in 3210 at PBIR in street trim with the low gas warning on. Race ready, I've been as low as 2925.
So now some questions.
Are you building a track only car?
Are you willing to actually destroy the car? (never to return to street use)
How much are you willing to spend?
What are your limitations?
Other than weight reduction, what other mods do you have or planning?
What is your ultimate goal?
Well it's a street car and I plan on keeping it that way. I'm willing to sacrifice a little I guess it just depends what it is.
As far as price I'm pretty limited at the moment. Its an ongoing project so the "budget" is not really limited it will probably take some amount of time to complete though. But having goals and things to work toward keep me motivated.
My goal is to have as fast a street car as possible. I'm going to stay here at full boltons and see how fast I can get it until I can afford some sort of forced induction then maybe a blower cam.
Pretty much the current goals are to go as fast as possible with the the amount of power I have. In the 1/4 mile.
Oh just for info my current mods are:
Varram
Tune
Full exhaust with cutouts
Ls7 clutch with aluminum flywheel
Comp 1.8 rockers
Ti retainers and comp 918 springs and pushrods
Spin ported fast 92
25% under drive pulley
Arp rod bolts.
Zip built rear diff with 3.73's
I don't think that there are too many more hp mods I can do besides a water pump and throttle body. Now I just need to focus on weight and getting it to hook.
Gasoline is 6 lbs/gal, so if you can run with a little less in the tank...ef
But except for serious racing, it will be hard to tell the difference.
True, but it's also not a good idea to run the tanks too low as that fuel is also used to cool the 'very costly to replace' fuel pump and of course any kind of fuel starvation at wide open throttle can potential destroy a piston or two as well.
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
For street use, you can ruin the usefulness of the car and gain only a little performance.
That always becomes the dilemma...just how far does one go with their 'street car' and still be able to truly enjoy it?
Your mods have already gone beyond the generally accepted definition of bolt-ons, but since you don't have a cam it'll be hard to draw comparisons to your progress with other results in the performance list.
Weight mods that are street friendly are pretty limited to rotors, exhaust system, draining w/w fluid, removing FRC's, lighter battery, and replacing some parts with carbon fiber or titanium.
Weight mods that are raceday friendly (aka reversible) include tires, wheels, removal of items such as passenger seat, carpet, door panels, sway bars.
Since you will be running quicker than 11.50, you'll need to add a rollbar and harness, so swapping the driver's seat to a light race seat will help compensate somewhat.
From my limited drag racing experience but my observation of other very meticulous racers, rotational weight savings offers the best performance increase. Exhaust systems are nice in that they add power and save weight, but that's probably the only mod that offers that. The little things like no floor mats, emptying the glove box and storage bins doesn't really do anything unless you're looking for every last 100th of a second at the track. If you want to try lighter seats, you have to be willing to live with potential discomfort on the street or long drives. This will depend on the seat and your own personal comfort tolerances. Other than that, for street use, go with lighter wheels, tires, brakes, and a clutch/flywheel combo. These will make the most difference but are also the most expensive.
There's not much left for my '12 GS 1LT, but I drained out @ 1.5 gal washer fluid, & my stock Z06 air intake is slightly lighter then the LS3 unit. I'll do non-run flat Michelins Pilot SS's & 2-piece rotors like DBA5000's which will drop @ 48lbs of rotational mass which should actually be pretty noticeable.
For other reasons I removed the XMradio module, the Fuel rail covers & intake cover (to help it run cooler), & removed the sun visors b/c they obstructed my top-down views, but that's not much weight savings.
Oh just for info my current mods are:
Varram
Tune
Full exhaust with cutouts
Ls7 clutch with aluminum flywheel
Comp 1.8 rockers
Ti retainers and comp 918 springs and pushrods
Spin ported fast 92
25% under drive pulley
Arp rod bolts.
Zip built rear diff with 3.73's
I don't think that there are too many more hp mods I can do besides a water pump and throttle body. Now I just need to focus on weight and getting it to hook.
Is there suppose to be a cam in this list? You did some pretty significant internal mods but that one is missing so I'm just wondering.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll be working towards the breaks as my next weight mod and remove all of the pieces that arent necessary at the track: heavy front wheels (replace with skinnies) and passanger seat.
Originally Posted by LEAVINU
Is there suppose to be a cam in this list? You did some pretty significant internal mods but that one is missing so I'm just wondering.
No, still the stock cam. I replaced the engine with another stock ls2 after my crankshaft pulley flew off of the original engine and took the threads with it. And I figured since I might spray some N2O eventually/ shift at roughly 7k rpm that the rod bolts and built valve train would give me some piece of mind. Also, since it was so easy to do with the engine out of the car I figured why not. I did add 1.8 roller rockers for a little bump in power and the TI retainers to offset the added weight of the rockers to keep everything nice and stable up top.
There's not much left for my '12 GS 1LT, but I drained out @ 1.5 gal washer fluid, & my stock Z06 air intake is slightly lighter then the LS3 unit. I'll do non-run flat Michelins Pilot SS's & 2-piece rotors like DBA5000's which will drop @ 48lbs of rotational mass which should actually be pretty noticeable.
For other reasons I removed the XMradio module, the Fuel rail covers & intake cover (to help it run cooler), & removed the sun visors b/c they obstructed my top-down views, but that's not much weight savings.
I'd be surprised if you could drop 48# by different rotors. Stock fronts weigh 26# each and just for grins, let's assume the rears are 22#. That's 96# for the whole car. Do you really think you can get rotors at half the stock weight?
I'd be surprised if you could drop 48# by different rotors. Stock fronts weigh 26# each and just for grins, let's assume the rears are 22#. That's 96# for the whole car. Do you really think you can get rotors at half the stock weight?
So the Michelin SS provides the biggest weight reduction with a four corner total of -12lbs. Twelve lbs is twelve lbs but I think many think they're dropping 20+lbs most of the time; obviously not the case.
*Just an informative post with facts for reference. Not knocking on anyone.