What two performance items should i add?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 449
Likes: 6
From: PLATTE CITY MO
What two performance items should i add?
I have a 2008 base M6 that is stock. I want to change two things on the car for better peformance. What two things should i change that will get me noticeable performance. I was thinking cold air/exhaust not sure which ones.Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,019
Likes: 2,712
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
If you are referring to straight line acceleration, you'll gets lots of suggestions here.
If you are referring to cornering and handling, the best advice is always to attend a couple of driving schools. If you've done a couple, do one more.
If you are referring to cornering and handling, the best advice is always to attend a couple of driving schools. If you've done a couple, do one more.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,435
Likes: 874
From: Bay Area CA
Engine:
1. CAI Halltech MF103 w/shroud w/cold air ports.
2. Tune or Headers + tune, yes that would be #3.
Handling:
1. Michelin PS2 ZP's or Super Sports a non run flat.
2. Bilstein Sport Shocks & Z51 sway bars, yes that would be #3.
Be careful what you change, some changes work better as a package.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Dec 1, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Former Vendor
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From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: On the east coast we drive until we die
For a basic set up, I'd go with headers and a Vararam, like everyone else suggested. If you want to get a little more aggressive but still relatively simple, I'd go for a set of headers and a cam. You'd need a tune for either set up so that's kind of 3 mods. Honestly you really can't say "pick 2 mods". It's all going to depend on your budget. Otherwise I'd say, forged motor and a supercharger. That's only 2.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,436
Likes: 4
From: Everett Wa
Because you have a base car you already have enough power to over come the suspension limitations by a wide margin. Of course it depends on what you want to do with the car. Myself I would put coilovers, and an improved swaybar. Want to go a cheaper route put Z51 springs, sways and a good set of shocks.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Since a tune is pretty much a requirement to make other mods work well, you better change your list from 2 mods to 3.
Tune plus air in and air out.
Tune plus air in and air out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 264
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
My thread on my path of mods, with dyno and track results, might be of interest.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
Decided yesterday to overlay all my mods since I've self tuned and dyno'ed each time I did major mods.
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
Last edited by Joe_G; Dec 3, 2012 at 06:11 AM.