A6 transmission removal
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
A6 transmission removal
Hey guys,
I'm at the final steps of removing my transmission for a built one, here is where I at:
Rear Cradle dropped and removed
Diff removed
Bolts removed from trans to bell housing
Transmission jack is supporting A6
Jack supporting torque tube at rear bell housing
I suspect I've got to remove the 3 bolts onto the torque converter, how do I rotate the shaft to access these from the cover plate?
I am unable to drop the torque tube any lower than an inch or 2 as the Eforce hits the firewall.
Any ideas
Steve
I'm at the final steps of removing my transmission for a built one, here is where I at:
Rear Cradle dropped and removed
Diff removed
Bolts removed from trans to bell housing
Transmission jack is supporting A6
Jack supporting torque tube at rear bell housing
I suspect I've got to remove the 3 bolts onto the torque converter, how do I rotate the shaft to access these from the cover plate?
I am unable to drop the torque tube any lower than an inch or 2 as the Eforce hits the firewall.
Any ideas
Steve
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
There is 3 bolts on converter attached to the the flex plate thats on the driveshaft
Pulling the trans out will leave the torque converter behind in the bell housing. ther converter has to come out eventually for reattaching to the transmission.
Pulling the trans out will leave the torque converter behind in the bell housing. ther converter has to come out eventually for reattaching to the transmission.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,820
Likes: 411
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Yes. This is true. I would try to turn the engine with either the crank bolt or possibly the belt. If you really cant and dont want to move the steering rack or lower the cradle to get on the crank bolt, than I would remove the tranny, and then the torque tube, and put the tranny and torque tube back in as one piece. Once the tranny is down removing the torque tube is easy.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Yes. This is true. I would try to turn the engine with either the crank bolt or possibly the belt. If you really cant and dont want to move the steering rack or lower the cradle to get on the crank bolt, than I would remove the tranny, and then the torque tube, and put the tranny and torque tube back in as one piece. Once the tranny is down removing the torque tube is easy.
I'm going to lower the cradle and hopefullt that will give access to the crank bolt, removing the rear bell housing looks impossible as the TT will not lower more than an inch or 2, the 1 7/8 LG Superpro headers will be in the way as well, I dont fancy removing them, they were a bitch to install.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,820
Likes: 411
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
That might be the easiest way to go. Truth is I am in the middle of doing that whole thing also.
The only thing is I removed one other piece that eliminated the issue you are having.
The only thing is I removed one other piece that eliminated the issue you are having.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Sometimes I think that might be easier....
Anyways, I've supported the engine on the oil pan, removed the engine mount and front cradle nuts and loosened the rear nuts to 2 turns, pulled the front end of the cradle low enought to get a 24mm socket onto the crank and I'm able to turn the crank to rotate the shaft, now I can access the rear flex plate/converter bolts.
Just wish they made this easier.
Thanks for all your help
Steve
Anyways, I've supported the engine on the oil pan, removed the engine mount and front cradle nuts and loosened the rear nuts to 2 turns, pulled the front end of the cradle low enought to get a 24mm socket onto the crank and I'm able to turn the crank to rotate the shaft, now I can access the rear flex plate/converter bolts.
Just wish they made this easier.
Thanks for all your help
Steve
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Brownsville Texas
Sometimes I think that might be easier....
Anyways, I've supported the engine on the oil pan, removed the engine mount and front cradle nuts and loosened the rear nuts to 2 turns, pulled the front end of the cradle low enought to get a 24mm socket onto the crank and I'm able to turn the crank to rotate the shaft, now I can access the rear flex plate/converter bolts.
Just wish they made this easier.
Thanks for all your help
Steve
Anyways, I've supported the engine on the oil pan, removed the engine mount and front cradle nuts and loosened the rear nuts to 2 turns, pulled the front end of the cradle low enought to get a 24mm socket onto the crank and I'm able to turn the crank to rotate the shaft, now I can access the rear flex plate/converter bolts.
Just wish they made this easier.
Thanks for all your help
Steve
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
What did you attach the box wrench onto?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo MI
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,820
Likes: 411
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
I agree. Tuning is the key. I spend hours reading and working to get a good starting tune for my new stuff. Always enjoy a good challenge. I almost went with a century trans but its such a hassle from so far away that I'm trying a different route. If this doesn't work out, and you have good reports I will do that next.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Brownsville Texas
Remove the rubber plug and shine a light up and you'll see the torque tube yoke. It's 2 1/4" in diameter and alot of us use a big open wrench to lock the engine so it won't spin when you remove the front damper bolt. But anyway - you'll see the bolts once you shine a light up.