Shift box/detend spring questions.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
Shift box/detend spring questions.
After removing the torque tube transmission and putting it back, I'm finding the reverse detent much harder to push against. I know the "correct" procedure for tightening things back down and I'm sure the linkage is not bent.
Pushing against the detent is also rough, like grinding/rusty metal which I don't remember before.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm wondering if maybe there's something I can grease to help, or something I might have inadvertently popped out of place.
Pushing against the detent is also rough, like grinding/rusty metal which I don't remember before.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm wondering if maybe there's something I can grease to help, or something I might have inadvertently popped out of place.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
Did you do the proper shift box alignment procedure? You need to tighten the linkage collar LAST. And make sure the neutral pin is fully inserted. Even like that, if you do it twice, you'd have 2 different results, like I did, but car should shift fine if done that way. I also relaxed the detend spring with one copper washer, and it reduced the notchiness, with still plenty of centering force. And contrary to some comments, if you remove the detent, there's NO centering force of any kind. That spring is for both sideways and forward force. That means with no detent, your shifter can pop out of gear. Plus who wants to drive with a sloppy gear shift lever. The beauty of that mod is you can reverse it in 10 minutes if desired. With all the changed I made (including Amsoil fully-synthetic oil), my tranny is as best as it's going to get. Good luck.
Last edited by JCtx; Jan 24, 2013 at 12:02 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
Did you do the proper shift box alignment procedure? You need to tighten the linkage collar LAST. And make sure the neutral pin is fully inserted. Even like that, if you do it twice, you'd have 2 different results, like I did, but car should shift fine if done that way. I also relaxed the detend spring with one copper washer, and it reduced the notchiness, with still plenty of centering force. And contrary to some comments, if you remove the detent, there's NO centering force of any kind. That spring is for both sideways and forward force. That means with no detent, your shifter can pop out of gear. Plus who wants to drive with a sloppy gear shift lever. The beauty of that mod is you can reverse it in 10 minutes if desired. With all the changed I made (including Amsoil fully-synthetic oil), my tranny is as best as it's going to get. Good luck.
Either way I've done it 50 different ways including offsetting the shifter to each side to see if it changed anything and it didn't (besides obviously making one direction or the other shorter)
Is the spring that makes it extra hard to move toward reverse in the same location as the rest? Do you have a pic of the location.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,022
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From: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
Tech Contributor
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Are you sure the reverse lockout is plugged in? I forgot to plug mine in during one of my transmission removal/reinstalls and it acted just like you are describing.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 763
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Where is it? I didn't really unplug anything from the transmission, I pulled the whole harness down from the front with the torque tube/transmission assembly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,022
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From: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
Tech Contributor
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
It's at the top of the transmission near the middle.
You can see it in this picture. It's the black plug on the right side of the transmission, almost dead center.
You can see it in this picture. It's the black plug on the right side of the transmission, almost dead center.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
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Melting Slicks
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