Factory Ride Height?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Factory Ride Height?
I had my C6 lowered on stock bolts about 1000 miles ago and it seems the rear didn't lower any. I didn't measure before hand but the front is 25.75" and the rear is 28.5". Seems like they didn't do the rear like I asked or maybe even raised her but want to make sure before I try to take her back. She's an 06 C6 w/ Z51. Thanks again guys!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 897
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
Are you measuring from ground to the top of the tire? 28" in the rear seems high, but without measuring mine (all the way down on stock bolts), I can't say for sure. I know the rear did not come down a whole lot, but 3" difference between the front and rear seems off...
It's not terribly hard to do it yourself, just need a bottlejack and a wrench
It's not terribly hard to do it yourself, just need a bottlejack and a wrench
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
K thanks I'm taking her back up there on Sat for them to double check it. just seems to high to me, might even throw lowering bolts on in the back to try to even out the rake a little bit. I know its suppose to be a little higher in the back but not this much. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Yea mines higher than that by about an inch it looks like. Is yours lowered on stock bolts or are those the $40 lowering bolts? Hopefully we can get her lowered this weekend! Badass pic by the way!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Charlotte NC
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Phoenix
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,015
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From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
If someone searches through my threads from a year or two ago, I did a lot of measuring and surveys to determine what stock height should be on our 2009 Z51. Problem is, the official measurements must be done with a ~$250 GM tool with the car up on an alignment rack, and even then i don't trust the tool very much. Worse, the specs have changed from year to year.
What I did discover is that the rear fender arch is usually 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" higher than the front, at stock height. OP's numbers look way too high in the back compared to the front, but as others said his bolts may be maxed out. If so, I would just raise the front to get the normal difference front-back. Well, actually I would try to set it at stock height but that's another story...
What I did discover is that the rear fender arch is usually 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" higher than the front, at stock height. OP's numbers look way too high in the back compared to the front, but as others said his bolts may be maxed out. If so, I would just raise the front to get the normal difference front-back. Well, actually I would try to set it at stock height but that's another story...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,015
Likes: 2,709
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
The spring rates don't change much as the ride is lowered, so on decent roads you shouldn't notice much difference. But if the road is rough, you've already used up some of the suspension travel by lowering, a big bump or pothole is more likely to have you hit the bump stops.
Further opinions?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 392
Measuring ride height using the fender opening is not the correct way to lower a car. 1. The fender mount and fender are not accurately located in relation to the frame. While lowering a car this way will get it to "look" neat, it's the easy way out. Ride height is measured at known points on the frame, not a plastic fender. then, there is the fact that you have no idea of the changes to corner weight, camber, caster, and toe, unless you check all of this.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,015
Likes: 2,709
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
You are correct about the fenders not being precisely located. However, most people don't have the GM tool for measuring "trim height"; and although I have one, I don't think it's all that accurate either.
My theory is that if no one has messed up the adjustments, you can do well enough for street work by maintaining the same relationship left to right and front to rear. In other words, if your front fender arches are 1 1/4" lower than the rears, keep that difference. If your left front is 1/8" lower than your right front, keep that difference also.
Any change in ride height should get an alignment after driving the car for 200-400 miles, but IMHO 99% of us won't notice any difference from corner-weighing the car.
I think that for most people, the idea of trying to get precise with ride height adjustments is like
"measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk, cut it with an axe."
But I'm willing to listen to other opinions...
My theory is that if no one has messed up the adjustments, you can do well enough for street work by maintaining the same relationship left to right and front to rear. In other words, if your front fender arches are 1 1/4" lower than the rears, keep that difference. If your left front is 1/8" lower than your right front, keep that difference also.
Any change in ride height should get an alignment after driving the car for 200-400 miles, but IMHO 99% of us won't notice any difference from corner-weighing the car.
I think that for most people, the idea of trying to get precise with ride height adjustments is like
"measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk, cut it with an axe."
But I'm willing to listen to other opinions...
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 392
GJim, I agree with you about the fact that most on CF could not tell diddly about corner weight, camber, caster, caster trail due to rake change, and toe, after they turn the lower bolts, but, I am amazed at the same people will ask for advise and ponder about what color to paint their brake calipers, and possibly destroy the corvette handling by not lowering a car correctly