door opening issue, where to look?


Any diagrams on taking off the door panel? Or is that a dead end?
Thanks for any advice or links gang.
question 1 - does the window index down when you press the inside door open button? (i suspect yes)
question 2 - when you press the door open button, will door open if you are pressing out on the door (at exact same time as the button press)? (to assist it opening)
question 3 - (from the outside) try opening door, closing door, repeat like oh say 10 times.... does door open fine all 10 times? also try same from inside
question 4 - open door. listen carefully in a quiet place or ear near latch on frame by gas door. press inside door open button. press open once every 2 seconds for 10 times. what sound do you hear from the door frame latch?
note on 1 - my understanding is that even if solenoid is failing , it should still index down, which means if its not indexing down, more than a solenoid problem
note on 2 - there isnt a door kicker, ya gonna assist it some. i think the unlatch motor only runs for like .5 seconds, so you may have to assist a open at unlatch time.
note on 3 - the motor in the latch itself must be overheating if it works when cooled down and gets worse the more you ask it to function
note on 4 - you should hear a sound every press. sound may very very faint or may be louder easily heard riiiiick sound. (should be same sound from passenger). no sound, button/wiring failure. it will be faint sometimes, but a good riiiiiick sound is the unlatch motor gears
iv'e never taken a door apart, just some mental notes i remember from others threads on this topic
Last edited by ChevyDave; Feb 26, 2013 at 05:12 PM.


question 1 yes
question 2 window indexes yes, and until I roll up the window to check for indexing? The inside button works fine. Once I roll up the window? the inside switch no longer opens the door.
question 3 Now when I intiially walk up to open the door from the inside, no it does not open. Now once I open the door from the outside and then close the door, it opens from the inside 10 out of 10 times. Door will not open with assistance.
question 4 I hear a click from the relay panel on the passenger side but I hear nothing from the drivers door latch.
Last edited by 360Rocket; Feb 26, 2013 at 04:26 PM.
question 1 yes
question 2 window indexes yes, and until I roll up the window to check for indexing? The inside button works fine. Once I roll up the window? the inside switch no longer opens the door.
question 3 Now when I intiially walk up to open the door from the inside, no it does not open. Now once I open the door from the outside and then close the door, it opens from the inside 10 out of 10 times. Door will not open with assistance.
question 4 I hear a click from the relay panel on the passenger side but I hear nothing from the drivers door latch.
#2a - not sure what your saying.. what i want to know is.. if your inside the car with door shut. you press the open button WHILE pushing out on the door, does it open?
#2b - are you saying that with the door closed , the inside button opens the door only when the window is down? but not when up?
#3a - try again. door closed. open door/close/repeat 10 times from outside (not using the button) but using the outside door grip. opens fine all 10 times?
#3b - get in close door. press button/open door/close door/repeat 10 times. if door wont open then problem, what i want to see is if the opening gets worse and worse because latch motor gets hot and starts to fail.
#4a - the latch that unlatches the door is on the body (at least on my car) not the door. so, sound should come from the body/latch driver side door , next to the fuel door, where the latch motor is. (same place on passenger side) with door open, pressing inside door open button, you should hear either... very very light sound of click or a louder riiiiiick sound of latch motor gears. you say you hear it on passenger but not on driver?
#4b - if true that sound of 4a only on passenger and not driver side. if door always opens fine from outside using the outside door open grip.... then you dont have electrical all the way to the motor latch from the inside button. (which may already seem obvious) which also means a loose connection or cut wire (you'll have to remove panel and trace where the wire goes from button to connectioners) before removing door panel, see the rubber boot (with door open) between door and body at the hing area... i think (on most cars) you can get in side it and see connections, check them first!
Last edited by ChevyDave; Feb 26, 2013 at 05:22 PM. Reason: added to end of 4b


No noise coming from the drivers side latch when I try to use the inside switch. A loud click coming from the drivers side door latch when I push the outside door button.
Never a problem when using the outside button and inside button works fine AFTER I use the outside button and dont touch anything else electrical on the car.
No noise coming from the drivers side latch when I try to use the inside switch. A loud click coming from the drivers side door latch when I push the outside door button.
Never a problem when using the outside button and inside button works fine AFTER I use the outside button and dont touch anything else electrical on the car.
really just sounds like a connection between button and wire that exits door. expecially if window down its ok and window up not, like its moving a wire that is bare/almost broken or a connector
door panel might be in order next
oh i was going to add this... http://www.theredlion.us/DSV%20Drive...%20Install.pdf
fyi.. yea the emerg handle works cause its a direct solid metal cable that directly attaches right onto the door latch
Last edited by ChevyDave; Feb 26, 2013 at 06:51 PM. Reason: added panel remove link


Thanks for the help Dave.
Man, I love the red door handle. a nice accent.





I use a spare male pin to test the female pins. If there isn’t resistance inserting or removing the male pin, the female pin is damaged. You can bend the female pin back in shape if you find it damaged.
This is a very common issue in the C5 world and I’m sure we will see more and more of it happening as the C6 ages. Heat and vibration are one culprit and repeated connecting and disconnecting the connectors are another thing that can cause pin issues.
Do not use dielectric grease in the connectors.
Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


I use a spare male pin to test the female pins. If there isn’t resistance inserting or removing the male pin, the female pin is damaged. You can bend the female pin back in shape if you find it damaged.
This is a very common issue in the C5 world and I’m sure we will see more and more of it happening as the C6 ages. Heat and vibration are one culprit and repeated connecting and disconnecting the connectors are another thing that can cause pin issues.
Do not use dielectric grease in the connectors.
Bill
REGULATOR. Door Lock Remote Control. Front Door Window Regulator.
REGULATOR,FRT S/D WDO(INCLS MOTOR, DR WINDOW/MIRROR/LOCK CONTROL MODULE)(10.783)(ACDelco #20823061) - LH. Required: 01
REGULATOR,FRT S/D WDO(INCLS MOTOR, DR WINDOW/MIRROR/LOCK CONTROL MODULE)(ACDelco #20823061) - LH. Required: 01
LHD. For: Y (2005-2009) (2005 - 2009).
LHD. For: Y (EXC OUTSIDE REAR VIEW MIRROR FIELD OF VIEW MOD FOR EUROPE(BTS) (2010-2011) (2010 - 2011).




