Good luck Mike hope it is something simple. I had problems with the wheel sensor's on my Duramax pickup, it was giving me a ABS not working alarm. I removed cleaned and checked the connections and cleared the problem. If it is like the speed sensor on my truck you can check the output of the sensor by connecting a Fluke meter across the two wire sensor with it unplugged from the connector that is located in the wheel well. It should put out 1.0 volt if you are able turn the hub around one revolution per second. Thought I had a bad sensor think it might have been where the connector connects in the wheel well cause haven't had a problem since. Good Luck!!!

 

Thanks guys...I let you know tomorrow.

 

Well, I took the Vette to my local Chevrolet dealer this morning to check the codes. I was there for about a half an hour. The tech said "nothing shows". So they told me everything thing looked okay and there was no trace of any reason that would make the light go on. So I drove home, which was about 14 miles. As I was pulling into my driveway, the "Service Anti-lock Brake's" came on again!!
#!@*&%! So I called the dealer and of course they were puzzled, but, he said check it again and if it goes on to make another appointment for next week. What a big PITA!!

 

Yep.
My very same experience, and why I state the dealer visits are a waste of valuable time and annoying. They seem as though they don't even want to try to fix these perplexing issues.
Hey, a brake job is easy and fetches some good coin. So why bother?!

 

See that is the problem with the appointments unless that fault is active it will not show up. If it were me the next time it came on I would take it back and demand that they check it. The code disappears when ever you shut the car off so unless it comes on going to the shop they will not find anything. What a run around sounds very aggravating hope it works out....

 

GOOD NEWS!!
Seems the swap out of the BPPS has resulted in the code staying on. It now never goes away!
So now if it does go to the dealer they can't say "we found nothing wrong"! I think that's progress

And now the car is getting a state inspection and I'm told it should pass. So my govt will deem this car safe and road worthy despite the faulty brake lights! All just to get Federal funding. We'll, at least my carbon footprint is the right size, and that's real good! In fact, it's all good!!!

 

I've noticed the light only comes on when it's cold...and usually goes off...but just the other day I was driving about 45 mph and suddenly it came on, chimed and the steering sorta locked just enough to pull a little to the left and scared the hell out of me. I had the recall done years ago. Couple questions I was hoping you could help with -
If I just turn off the traction control...is that the same as th active handling?
Lastly, I've read all the posts on here and I'm thoroughly confused...doesn't seem like I'm the only one that has experienced this with the car pulling...anyone been able to identify exactly what causes this? I live in a small town and afraid my dealer will charge me an arm and a leg while troubleshooting and not convinced they will fix it. I'm really scared to drive it.

 

Had the same scenario the first time it came on. I was pretty much hammering it in 3rd. gear when I thought the tires had broke loose and let off immediately. After letting off I noticed for the first time on the DIC a message Service Active Handling System. It did actually jerk the wheel and made me think that the car was trying to fishtailing. But that wasn't the case it was something that the happened when this fault happened and you are not the first that this has happened to. I have never tried turning it off before this happened so not sure if that would help or not, I think you would probably get the message anyway whether you had it on or not. From what I have been told on here when get the SAHS message it has been turned by the car. According to some info that ChevyDave has posted on this thread there are several things that will cause this. Here they are:
Conditions for Setting the DTC
• The brake pedal is sensed as applied.
• The vehicle speed is greater than 40 km/h (25 mph).
• The vehicles acceleration exceeds 8 km/h per second (5 mph per second).
• Brake pedal is not applied.
• Master cylinder pressure is greater than 150 psi.
• The vehicle speed is greater than 24 km/h (14 mph).
• The vehicles deceleration exceeds 11.5 km/h per second (7 mph per second).
My recommendation is getting someone with a Tech2 Scanner to pull the code as this will be the only way to determine what is actually causing the problem. It must be in the faulted mode in order for you to be able to get the code that is causing the problem there is no history module so the fault must be active.
Good Luck!!!!

 

Well, the next time it comes on I'm driving to the dealer and hope it doesn't go off before I get there. I could understand if I was on the car, but driving normal??

 

Setting the code doesn't have anything to do with whether you were on the car or not. The system doesn't care. All it does is look for the presence of a message from the ECM, sense signals from its sensors, compute what corrections need to be made and then issue commands. Simple process. Wheel speed sensor failures result in failure of the ABS, TC and AH. Engine misfire and throttle control failures can result in failures of the TC and AH, steering sensor, lateral g and yaw rate sensor failures result in AH failures. EBCM failures or voltage supply issues can result in all sorts of weird things happening.

Most ABS codes are reset when the engine is restarted and that is why a lot of times they disappear until the car has done its initialization testing which may require the car to be driven a short distance. Marginal signals may not always be detectable by the initialization tests so the system may work for a while but then fail when certain operating conditions are encountered (this is the nature of all electronic systems).

If you know an auto parts store that has a scanner that can read ABS codes the next time you get the error go to the store and have them read the codes before you turn the engine off.

Bill

 

Looks like I am one of only few spending $21 / month on On Star. At the very least they are able to advise on fault codes.
Once I get a reply from Evan at GM Cust Serv I will likely need to return to my dealer. At least I can probably rule out the BPPS

 

Mike Campbell,

I'm sorry you are having issues with your Active Handling System. Please PM me when you decide to take your Corvette back to the dealership for this issue?

Evan, Chevrolet Customer Service

 

Evan, I certainly will. Thanks for your interest.

 

Took a half day off from work and am now going back to the dealer, hopeful that we can find a fix.
Here we go.........

 

Got a call from service dept. They found "erratic signaling" in the BCM and I have authorized it's replacement. Cost = $640 plus tax
Add to the work on BPPS and we are at over $800.00 plus time off from work.

If this is a fix then it's all worth it. I will stay hopeful

 

Is it possible that non factory tire sizes could cause the wheel speed sensonrs to read incorrectly and throw of the AHS?

 

Good question.
The service guy did ask if I swapped tires for a different size which I did not. So that perhaps could cause issues, however, is not pertinent in my situation.
Hopefully they got it solved with the BCM but at this time it's anyone's guess

 

My service guy asked me the same question and I did change from my stock GY's to INVO's about a year ago. The sizes allegedly are the same, but, let's face it; " run flats vs non-run flats??" Who knows? I'll have to wait until the light comes on again & drive it right to the service guy.

 

I have 345/35 r19's on the rear and I get the "SAHS" on the DIC randomly. I need to hook up my HP tuners and adjust the tire size and see if it cures my problem.

 

I have a base C6 without the telescopic steering wheel. I occasionally have the Active Handling message pop up right after starting the car and backing out of the driveway.

This last weekend i was having trouble with the starter which tended to knock the initial voltage down to 12 v. I had to rush to pick up my kid and was planning to pick up a new starter on the way back. This time the service message stayed on the whole 10mile trip. I pulled a U turn, picked him up and could smell the brakes for the next mile before pulling over for lunch. I thought/hoped the smell was not mine.

Sure enough I could not restart after that. New starter - no Active Handling problems (so far). Long story, but with slightly lower voltage and slightly higher connector resistance the computer could be throwing a code.