Clutch issues
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Clutch issues
Hi all. Hoping to get some advice on a problem I'm having with my 2008 convertible, 6 speed. Starting when I got it out this year, the clutch is slipping. I replaced the fluid, and kept pumping it through until its staying clean in the resovoir. Still slipping. Only happens under moderate to hard acceleration once it hits about 4500 rpm. It pulls normally until that point.
This is a low miles car (16k) that's been gently driven its whole life, I guess I'm hoping you guys can tell me of another common problem to look at. I'm really hoping it doesn't need a new clutch.
This is a low miles car (16k) that's been gently driven its whole life, I guess I'm hoping you guys can tell me of another common problem to look at. I'm really hoping it doesn't need a new clutch.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Honolulu Hawaii
I too am having a problem. The fluid issues are mostly related to the pedal sticking to the floor. I have cleaned my fluid ( ranger method) just to try it. My clutch only slips a moment from cruising in a gear, then it catches and all is good. I can go WOT from a stop and it won't slip.
I did the bellhousing cover plate mod, I drilled holes in them. Cleaned the clutch and fly wheel as best I could. Clutch is very well vented now and clutch dust won't build up in the housing. But I still get a slight slip from cruise rpm. Then it will catch
I did the bellhousing cover plate mod, I drilled holes in them. Cleaned the clutch and fly wheel as best I could. Clutch is very well vented now and clutch dust won't build up in the housing. But I still get a slight slip from cruise rpm. Then it will catch
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 16
From: Sugarhill Ga
sounds like you will have to take it apart. I the previous owner rode the clutch or somehow glazed the flywheel enough by the clutch not releasing (either weak master or the pedal staying on the floor) either way you are going to have to take it apart and either resurface or replace the flywheel. You may want to upgrade to a Z06 unit though. pulling the inspection covers helped me out a great deal with dust build up.
sorry but good luck
sorry but good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
if clutch is slipping with the clutch pedal disengaged (pedal out), it has nothing to do with the hydraulics (master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch fluid, etc). Unfortunately, you need a new clutch. Sorry for the bad news. If you bought the car used, the previous owner must have either abused or rode the clutch inadvertently.
Hydraulic issues are A LOT more common, especially due to not being able to bleed the stupid system. So now that the clutch has to come out, make sure to install a remote bleeder so you can extend the life of your slave cylinder (a POS, since it doesn't have a dust seal, to avoid clutch contamination). Good luck.
Hydraulic issues are A LOT more common, especially due to not being able to bleed the stupid system. So now that the clutch has to come out, make sure to install a remote bleeder so you can extend the life of your slave cylinder (a POS, since it doesn't have a dust seal, to avoid clutch contamination). Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
In some cases, a person who thinks they are being gentle on a clutch is actually being very hard on it. Riding the clutch pedal is one way, slipping the clutch excessively in an effort to be smooth is another. As was said above, if it slips when the pedal is released, then it has nothing to do with the hydraulics.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
sounds like you will have to take it apart. I the previous owner rode the clutch or somehow glazed the flywheel enough by the clutch not releasing (either weak master or the pedal staying on the floor) either way you are going to have to take it apart and either resurface or replace the flywheel. You may want to upgrade to a Z06 unit though. pulling the inspection covers helped me out a great deal with dust build up.
sorry but good luck
sorry but good luck
But in 2007 ALL clutch's became Z06 only 1 part #
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Thanks for the advice gents. So, is it possible to replace the C6 clutch without a lift? I'm an experienced wrench and I've done plenty of clutches, but judging by pictures I've seen, it looks like this one may require a lift. Also, aside from the remote bleeder, what other weak parts should I replace or upgrade while I'm in there? I assume I want an aftermarket clutch since the stock C6 clutch doesn't have a great reputation for longevity, which clutches are folks having good luck with on this car?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
Check into the remote bleeder because the common one doesn't have a sharp enough bend in it and will bump and rub...there is one that is correct though. Someone who knows will comment. This is a very big job to do without a lift...wow.
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Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Check, will do a remote bleeder and be cautious to get a good one. I've been thinking about it, and maybe I'll use this job as an excuse to finally buy a 2 post lift. I'll save enough in labor that the lift will almost pay for itself with just this one job. (That doesn't have to be true. It just has to sound true when I say it to my wife) So since the stock clutch is obviously a weak point in the car, I assume I should get an aftermarket clutch. Which ones are people liking?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 853
From: Daytona Beach FL
Huh!?!? 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the stock clutch - it's not a weak point at all, unless perhaps you've got 600+ rwhp, or it's been treated badly.
However, if I were going to do a new clutch in my Z06, there's no question about what I'd go with - check out the Katech site info on their LS9X or LS9R:
http://store.katechengines.com/c6-co...z06gs-c66.aspx
You can see they've got their remote bleeder kit on that page as well.
My stock Z06 has about 46,000 miles of which about 5,000 are on roadcourse tracks with lots of shifting, and it's still doing great - so there's nothing at all weak about the stock clutches. My car is stock with a tune, maybe 25hp above factory hp, and I expect the clutch to last for another 46,000 miles. But when it does need a new clutch I'll get me a Katech LS9X clutch and be good to go for another 100,000 miles!!
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; Apr 23, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 379
From: Detroit
If you swap clutches absolutely do not get the LS9R. It drives good but that's about it. Many people are having issues with them slipping and not holding power including myself. Trying to save you more headache. If you're gonna spend $1600 bucks get a real clutch.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 264
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Check, will do a remote bleeder and be cautious to get a good one. I've been thinking about it, and maybe I'll use this job as an excuse to finally buy a 2 post lift. I'll save enough in labor that the lift will almost pay for itself with just this one job. (That doesn't have to be true. It just has to sound true when I say it to my wife) So since the stock clutch is obviously a weak point in the car, I assume I should get an aftermarket clutch. Which ones are people liking?
I would suggest you go out and romp on the car hard a bit...some 3-4 gear pulls should do it, and if you have drag strip experience, take it to the strip if you can. Goal here is to heat the clutch up to clear the glaze. It could be the prior owner glazed it going to the car shows...you have nothing to lose, and it's fun.
If you get any wheel hop let out of it, you will break your rear end...but don't be afraid to slip the clutch out of the hole.You can do your clutch without a lift, it's not fun, but can be done. Slickshoes has a great how-to with pictures. Take out the intake to get at the top bellhousing bolts, intake is easy to RnR, no gaskets needed.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ion-4-0-a.html
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 303
Likes: 4
From: San Jose CA
if clutch is slipping with the clutch pedal disengaged (pedal out), it has nothing to do with the hydraulics (master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch fluid, etc). Unfortunately, you need a new clutch. Sorry for the bad news. If you bought the car used, the previous owner must have either abused or rode the clutch inadvertently.
Hydraulic issues are A LOT more common, especially due to not being able to bleed the stupid system. So now that the clutch has to come out, make sure to install a remote bleeder so you can extend the life of your slave cylinder (a POS, since it doesn't have a dust seal, to avoid clutch contamination). Good luck.
Hydraulic issues are A LOT more common, especially due to not being able to bleed the stupid system. So now that the clutch has to come out, make sure to install a remote bleeder so you can extend the life of your slave cylinder (a POS, since it doesn't have a dust seal, to avoid clutch contamination). Good luck.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Sorry for the late reply, I've been out of town. Ok, I'll try some hard pulls to heat it up. If that doesn't work, I guess I'm replacing the clutch. So you guys don't think the stock clutch is bad? Because I know I've read some horror stories. Let me put it this way, if I do have to replace the clutch anyhow, should I buy an OEM clutch, or would it be a good time to upgrade? I have some time to decide. I'm going to use this job as an excuse to buy a maxjax, and they're on backorder until the end of may.