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Hi guys, long story short, I brought my car to a shop with a perfectly functioning Spec 3+ clutch. Motor was taken out and rebuilt and reinstalled (currently around 500 whp).
Shop calls me and says that I need a new clutch. They say it can be driven on the street but if you push it it doesn't hold. Told me it happens sometimes when you take out a clutch and reinstall it. Shop told me the car had been driven some miles on a safety tune prior to being tuned and now the clutch doesn't hold...
How is this possible? They told me it happens sometimes, when you reinstall a used clutch it may not work anymore...
Car is a daily driver, never goes to the track. A reputable shop actually laughed when I told them the story. Just curious what others think as well...
I'm really bummed out, a clutch isn't cheap... There's even more to this but just want to focus on this part of my "experience" at this shop.
The only way the clutch "won't hold" after its has been re-installed is if the shop put it in and didn't clean the flywheel / pressure plate. If those are covered in greasy hand prints.......
The only way the clutch "won't hold" after its has been re-installed is if the shop put it in and didn't clean the flywheel / pressure plate. If those are covered in greasy hand prints.......
Bob
I just dropped a new engine in my Z and I reused my LS9X clutch but it essential to clean all contact surfaces and re-install the disks the same way they came out!
I have 60k miles on my 07 Z and never a problem with the drivetrain. I still have the original Z06 clutch and recently did a major power upgrade, I thought seriously about putting in a big brother twin disc setup and was advised to use the stock clutch up, then when it needed changed go to the ZR1-XR unit.
My vote would lean toward the shop flogging the hell out of your car on their "Test Drives". Maybe a dirty flywheel and clutch plates but my guess is still your car was Tested by an animal! When the clutch gets hot enough to burn, as in doing burnouts or drag racing style launches the disk springs lose tension and the clutch is gone, it will slip.
With the only exception being the needed work be preformed, your car should be returned to you with the needed repairs preformed and not a phone call saying, we fixed your car but now you have a bigger problem than when you brought your car in for the repair. I didn't see where you live but most states have some process for problem resolution. You may want to explorer that alternative if a satisfactory resolution can not be reached with the shop.
I am in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. I brought my car to a shop near Charlotte. I agree with you.. It's either one or the other. I actually contacted Spec as well and they said the same thing. I hope I can resolve things peacefully with them...
I ran a Spec stage 2 on a GTO running 510whp and it held perfectly. The vette is making similar power with a Spec Stage 3+... shop says it slips now that it's making power again. When I brought it to them it was running very poorly.. The spec 3+ is rated at 900 lbs of torque at the crank and it held fine before my car started developing issues.