When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, yeah, probably. Drive up on some boards so you can get the jack under it.
Pretty sure its the rear spring. The differential is sitting on the spring like the pictures above. Couldnt find an obvious crack in the spring, but did see what I would presume to be some stress cracks closer to the rubber bushing. Looks like to the for sale section I go.
And that's exactly what mine looked like. I've got a spring on the way so we'll know soon enough. Can't imagine it would be anything else. Good luck with yours as well.
For either guys with suspension problems there is wishboned shaped thing in the rear that sits on bushings and looks like there is a lowering bolt attached. That could have broken and caused the suspension drop, but it should only happen to one side not both...
I've received the replacement leaf spring but now need to repair the diff leak; anyone have pages of service manual to illustrate this process? I'm looking to replace both axle seals as well as the cover.
Would it be easier to just pull the whole diff out and rebuild on the bench?
Labor quotes are are around 4hrs and $650. I've done all sorts of mechanic work on various vehicles, including replacing drive axles, but just never on a Vette. Just looking for some guidance before tearing into it and just winging it.
So, I received the replacement spring today and got it installed. Unfortunately, my problem remains. The car is sitting in the same position and the ride is still choppy due to the suspension not working properly.
I've added pictures to the photobucket gallery that compare the replacement spring (used) to the spring I removed. They looked the same, and while it might just be me, mine looked to have a slightly higher arch.
Soooooo, I'm not sure what else to check now. My control arms look fine and there's no other popping or squeaking anywhere. The new shocks I've installed still look good and nothing seems to be in a bind on either side.
Other thoughts???
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Regarding the OP's problem, the differential fluid is basically a high quality oil, with some additives. I would be slightly surprised if the oil would cause his spring to fail.
OK, so I think I may have found something significant... When I moved my lowering bolts over to the replacement spring, my bolts didn't have any rubber pad or disc to contact the lower control arm; it was just bolt only. On one bolt it appeared there was some epoxy residue. While looking up things associated with the spring, I found a picture of the lowering bolt. With that rubber pad missing, it makes sense for my car to sit this low. I've posted a picture in the photobucket album that shows a stock vs aftermarket bolt; If a little less material makes a big difference, then no material would be huge.
Now I think I need to replace these bolts and everything should be just fine. Dang, what a lot of work and $$$ chasing this down. It all started with replacing the shocks, which I guess still needed to be done, but probably wasn't critical. Let this be a lesson....
I'll post a follow up once I replace these to let everyone know the outcome. Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Here's a good article detailing the process of swapping the lowering bolts... this is where I found the picture. It's a great reference for dropping the suspension to remove the spring as well. I didn't remove the lower ball joint, though. I removed the two bolts for the upper arm, the shock, brake caliper and the sway bar link and was able to wiggle the spring out.
OK, so I think I may have found something significant... When I moved my lowering bolts over to the replacement spring, my bolts didn't have any rubber pad or disc to contact the lower control arm; it was just bolt only. On one bolt it appeared there was some epoxy residue. While looking up things associated with the spring, I found a picture of the lowering bolt. With that rubber pad missing, it makes sense for my car to sit this low. I've posted a picture in the photobucket album that shows a stock vs aftermarket bolt; If a little less material makes a big difference, then no material would be huge.
Now I think I need to replace these bolts and everything should be just fine. Dang, what a lot of work and $$$ chasing this down. It all started with replacing the shocks, which I guess still needed to be done, but probably wasn't critical. Let this be a lesson....
I'll post a follow up once I replace these to let everyone know the outcome. Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Sorry the leaf spring was not the issue. I guess it's not really worth shipping it back
You don't have to buy new bolts. Yes those are aftermarket but all your have do is thread them down a bit. With the tension of the spring they won't move I guess you could put thread locker on it just to be safe but even the factory ones don't come fully threaded down that is how people lower there cars from the factory.
Hey no worries, it's all part of the learning experience. I really appreciate your help with it.
I've never replaced the bolts, I just found the pic of stock vs aftermarket. So you're saying it's ok for the bolt to be metal on metal? I can already see where the bolt is digging in to the arm. Makes me a little nervous...
Hey no worries, it's all part of the learning experience. I really appreciate your help with it.
I've never replaced the bolts, I just found the pic of stock vs aftermarket. So you're saying it's ok for the bolt to be metal on metal? I can already see where the bolt is digging in to the arm. Makes me a little nervous...
The more you unscrew the bolt the more it raises the car. So if you need more height that is what you do. My car is currently to low and I'll be doing that this weekend
It is confirmed.... I replaced the bolts and now I have my smooth ride back and I was able to dial in just the ride height I wanted. I definitely didn't want to run the bolt directly on the control arm - steel bolt digging into aluminum was a disaster just waiting to happen.
Good luck to anyone else in this predicament; I hope this thread has helped!
It is confirmed.... I replaced the bolts and now I have my smooth ride back and I was able to dial in just the ride height I wanted. I definitely didn't want to run the bolt directly on the control arm - steel bolt digging into aluminum was a disaster just waiting to happen.
Good luck to anyone else in this predicament; I hope this thread has helped!
It is confirmed.... I replaced the bolts and now I have my smooth ride back and I was able to dial in just the ride height I wanted. I definitely didn't want to run the bolt directly on the control arm - steel bolt digging into aluminum was a disaster just waiting to happen.
Good luck to anyone else in this predicament; I hope this thread has helped!
I'm sure it will help others in the future.
Thank you very much RC for following through with the diagnostic and parts replacement process. Regrettable that you went through the spring replacement for nothing. Your experience reminds all of us NOT to assume that a car has stock parts. It's nice to have people like you part of the family.
Now, I'm still at a loss to understand how this occurred suddenly, after replacing shocks? That's a head scratcher.
Thanks to RC_Tactical, he was kind enough to give me a heads up on the lowering bolts failing on his ride, and not the leaf spring.
I crawled under and found the same issue. I took pictures just to make this post as informative as possible in case someone else runs across this and is questioning a rear or front suspension collapse.
Wicked C5 was kind enough to help me out with a set of bolts he had as spares.
Thanks again guys.
Driver side (bolt sheared completely off @ rubber bushing)
Passenger side (bolt digging into lower A-arm/missing rubber pad):