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Old May 28, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Default More fuel pump problems

I have a 2008 C6 with a Novi 1500 SC, pushing around 7.5~8 psi. Dynoed 501rwhp, 466rqtw. Supercharger was installed around August of last year.

Stock pump lost pressure around 480rwhp (boost-a-pump was not working).

Replaced with Walbro 450, dedicated power line from alternator, and fixed BAP in October of last year, holds *OK* to redline (I say OK because it still drops to roughly 55-56psi, while idle shows ~62).

Over the weekend (Memorial Day), was coming up to speed on an on-ramp and once BAP kicked in, fuel pressure went to 0. All fuses fine, problem is either faulty BAP or fuel pump (haven't had time to diagnose yet).

Any ideas why I'm having issues with fuel pressure? Potentially pinched line? Fuel rails? From what I know, most people just use the stock pump with BAP and it lasts years, with no problems delivering up to 600+ rwhp. My Walbro 450 was 416lph and should have been good way beyond that with the BAP.

Any suggestions on what to replace the pump with? I don't want to go crazy on the pump or have to run lines for a return style setup because it shouldn't be necessary for barely 500rwhp.

advTHXance
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Old May 28, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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You should probably figure out what's wrong, rather than keep throwing parts at it.
The 450 should support more power than you're making. If you're not competent enough, take it to a shop.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ferocious C6
You should probably figure out what's wrong, rather than keep throwing parts at it.
The 450 should support more power than you're making. If you're not competent enough, take it to a shop.
Id like to think I am. I put the SC on myself, and the pump. But considering the problems I'm having maybe not . Either way I think you're right, somethings going on I'm not aware of.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 02:26 PM
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Hello,

Measuring current draw of the fuel pump is an excellent indicator of the overall health of your fuel system.

The leading cause of fuel pump failure is that the sock at the pickup becomes clogged with debri and as a result you can easily see the current draw of the fuel pump increase. Eventually the pump motor burns out trying to overcome the clogged sock.

Bad connections to the fuel pump will also show an increased current draw.

I suspect that your original problem was debri on your fuel sock and that the Boost pump mearly masked the problem but you saw positive results when the car then ran properly.

You can test fuel pump current draw right at the fusebox with your Fluke Multimenter in place of the pulled fuel pump fuse.

Good Luck,

Douglas in Green Bay
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Old May 29, 2013 | 06:36 AM
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How was the fuel pump wired? Did you use stock wiring?
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Old May 29, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferocious C6
How was the fuel pump wired? Did you use stock wiring?

If you did use the stock wiring, you might want to check your fuse box, relay and wire back to the pump. I'd imagine the 450 pulling more amps than the OEM pump.


Elmer
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Old May 29, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shift
dedicated power line from alternator
So I found it. It was a fuse in this power line from the alternator that I overlooked. I remember searching for it, but in the dark and being late, I assumed I was thinking of some other fuse when I couldn't find it. It was a 20 amp fuse. I am not sure if it blew because something caused the pump to surge, or because it has been fatigued over the past 8 months or so.

I am in the process of converting one of my hobby amp meters to plug into the fuse block to see how much power it is pulling, and see if I need to bump it to a 25A since I am running the bigger 450 pump instead of stock.

Thanks for everyones suggestions. I'll try to remember to check back in when I get some data on how many amps the pump is drawing.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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A BAP is completely unnecessary for this application. Ditch it and run only the 450 pump.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ferocious C6
A BAP is completely unnecessary for this application. Ditch it and run only the 450 pump.

The 450 doesn't need the BAP. I pulled my BAP when I installed the aeromotive 340 stealth and I'm not having any fuel issues.

Elmer
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Old May 30, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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Are you two supercharged? I think I will reinstall the dial to adjust the voltage and see how well it really keeps up. I am not convinced there isn't another issue somewhere, but right now I'm just glad it didn't require dropping the tank and a bunch of money.

Probably take a closer look this weekend.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by shift
Are you two supercharged? I think I will reinstall the dial to adjust the voltage and see how well it really keeps up. I am not convinced there isn't another issue somewhere, but right now I'm just glad it didn't require dropping the tank and a bunch of money.

Probably take a closer look this weekend.

See my Sig.


Elmer
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:46 PM
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A KB bap and racetronix harness will work well with the oem pump and support 600rwhp easy. It's the oem wiring, connectors etc that is the weak link. Thus avoided via the Racetronix.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DSOMC6
A KB bap and racetronix harness will work well with the oem pump and support 600rwhp easy. It's the oem wiring, connectors etc that is the weak link. Thus avoided via the Racetronix.
I have a racetronix harness.

What kind of pressure should be considered too low? I have my alarm set at 55psi.

What kind of power would a stock pump be using with the BAP?
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Old May 31, 2013 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by shift
I have a racetronix harness.

What kind of pressure should be considered too low? I have my alarm set at 55psi.

What kind of power would a stock pump be using with the BAP?
I have the bap set to come on at 3psi via a hobbs switch. The fp is a consistent 60psi. Never does fp fluctuate more than 1-2psi according to my fp guage. The car is making 620whp/620tq w this set-up on the origonal stock 2006 pump.
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