C6 Sway Bar End Links
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
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C6 Sway Bar End Links
-Power Grid is basically a steel ball joint within aluminum body very similar to oem except it is adjustable.
-Rod End type are noisy.
-Quiet end link w/teflon lining will not last.
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Anyone have experience with MOOG Part # K750136?
-Rod End type are noisy.
-Quiet end link w/teflon lining will not last.
---
Anyone have experience with MOOG Part # K750136?
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,897
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From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
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When exposed to road grit and moisture, the combination will form a slurry similar to lapping compound - teflon will suffer under that condition alone.
Search on the forum will confirm that currently available "Teflon lined Quiet End Links" will not stay quiet for long.
Search on the forum will confirm that currently available "Teflon lined Quiet End Links" will not stay quiet for long.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,897
Likes: 412
From: Lewisville TX
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I've been here for over 10 years, and have had them on customer and shop cars for years. My suggestion is to hit them with a little dry graphite lube every other oil change and they are typically fine. Now we do not see snow and salt like the northern states do, but they have still went well over 50k miles with no issues.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
I've been here for over 10 years, and have had them on customer and shop cars for years. My suggestion is to hit them with a little dry graphite lube every other oil change and they are typically fine. Now we do not see snow and salt like the northern states do, but they have still went well over 50k miles with no issues.
I lurk at this form for many years before the '10 joined date. I joined because of used parts for my '05 from forum members.
A search will reveal many failed expensive teflon lined quiet end links.
Even OEM is under $25 each and have lasted 8 years. Moog's cost is $18+change, contact between ball joint/housing is steel on steel and comes with built in grease zerk to infuse fresh grease. Hard to beat at face value when comparing with some of these expensive rod end end links.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I never specify teflon in an application that is subjected to the type of deformation damage like that in end links. The surface area is too small. Teflon works best with large flat areas.The steel ball in aluminum socket design has all the same problems, but it's cheaper to manufacture.
It's not unlike most parts that start their slow journey to self destruction the very day they're installed. The lifespan for me has been in the 30-40K mile range. The wife's Caddy is at 69K and not a hint of noise....yet. Smoother roads and conservative driving style makes the difference.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
I never specify teflon in an application that is subjected to the type of deformation damage like that in end links. The surface area is too small. Teflon works best with large flat areas.The steel ball in aluminum socket design has all the same problems, but it's cheaper to manufacture.
It's not unlike most parts that start their slow journey to self destruction the very day they're installed. The lifespan for me has been in the 30-40K mile range. The wife's Caddy is at 69K and not a hint of noise....yet. Smoother roads and conservative driving style makes the difference.
Case in point, with additional adjustability, PowerGrid charges an arm and a leg for their similar to oem design.
What is your opinion in regards to the Moog replacement?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
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Although my current endlinks are not yet having problem but they are 8 years old, just being proactive.
I prefer ball joint design, as it is simple yet effective, especially of the steel variety, just as tie rods on most oem setup. Even if it is the expensive all steel rod end type, it remains an consumable item.
As a matter of fact, I went ordered from Amazon, total $89.60 w/Free Shipping to my door. Thats about $30 less than oem from forum vendor with shipping and 1/4 the price from some expensive quiet endlinks out there.
I ordered ahead before the need is to prep the steel body of the Moog endlinks and refinish it with POR15 as to protect it from the salty environment I live in.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
FWIW, for those that have not done a search.
Over at Autocrossing/Roadracing Section, several knowledgeable member have subjected a variety of end links to the combined racing/real world test. Lots of knowledge sharing can be had in that Section - sort of remind me of LS1tech.
Over at Autocrossing/Roadracing Section, several knowledgeable member have subjected a variety of end links to the combined racing/real world test. Lots of knowledge sharing can be had in that Section - sort of remind me of LS1tech.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Several years ago, I had three almost identical cars (wife and two daughters) and they ate sway bar links. I replaced them with Moog parts that had grease fittings and the issues went away. Not a Corvette example, but a Moog example
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Southern Utah
The grease fitting sounds like a good way to go.
Just like any other suspension joint/link. The tie rods don't make noise, no reason the sway bar links should.
Just like any other suspension joint/link. The tie rods don't make noise, no reason the sway bar links should.
Last edited by cclive; Jun 13, 2013 at 08:58 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019