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I have a 2005 C6 and I am wanting to rebuild it. I am putting together a list of parts and I am not sure if I am missing any important parts or if I need to upgrade some of my stock parts to make my current list work.
Heres what I have so far:
416ci Rotating Assembly (K1 4.125 Crankshaft, Eagle 6.125" H-Beam connecting rods and ARP 2000 Rod Bolts, Wiseco 4.005" Pistons)
ARP Main Stud Kit
LS7 Lifters
Chrome Molly Push Rods
LS3 Rocker Arm Package 1.85 ratio
Comp Cams Retro-Fit Rocker Arm Trunion Kit
MTI Stage 2 Cam 227/239 .614/.624
Cometic LSX 6-Bolt Top End Gasket Kit
Texas-Speed LS3 250cc Heads
Texas-Speed LS3 102mm Intake (complete)
and I know I will need plugs and wires but is there anything I am missing?
I have a 2005 C6 and I am wanting to rebuild it. I am putting together a list of parts and I am not sure if I am missing any important parts or if I need to upgrade some of my stock parts to make my current list work.
Heres what I have so far:
416ci Rotating Assembly (K1 4.125 Crankshaft, Eagle 6.125" H-Beam connecting rods and ARP 2000 Rod Bolts, Wiseco 4.005" Pistons)
ARP Main Stud Kit
LS7 Lifters
Chrome Molly Push Rods
LS3 Rocker Arm Package 1.85 ratio
Comp Cams Retro-Fit Rocker Arm Trunion Kit
MTI Stage 2 Cam 227/239 .614/.624
Cometic LSX 6-Bolt Top End Gasket Kit
Texas-Speed LS3 250cc Heads
Texas-Speed LS3 102mm Intake (complete)
and I know I will need plugs and wires but is there anything I am missing?
Thanks alot everybody.
Other things to consider...
ARP head bolts or studs
ARP crank bolt
ARP flywheel bolts
ATI UD pulley
Upgraded oil pump
C5R timing chain
What springs are you using?
Poly motor mounts
Heat wrap everything in engine bay
Clutch remote bleeder (if manual car)
Not everything would be necessary, but worth considering if you're going this far.
Ditch the Cometic head gaskets and use the GM MLS. I've never heard of any problems getting a MLS gasket to seal up and you can reuse them.
I'm almost positive that you can't re-use the GM MLS head gasket. If you use the Cometic gaskets, spray copper gasket sealer on both sides prior to assembly. I had no issues with my old LS2 build this way.
ARP head bolts or studs
ARP crank bolt
ARP flywheel bolts
ATI UD pulley
Upgraded oil pump
C5R timing chain
What springs are you using?
Poly motor mounts
Heat wrap everything in engine bay
Clutch remote bleeder (if manual car)
Not everything would be necessary, but worth considering if you're going this far.
I have added the ARP studs and bolts to the list.
When I get my new clutch and flywheel in a few months I am getting the ARP flywheel bolts with them. I'll look into the oil pump and I am still trying to find the best c5r for my setup.
The springs are PRC .675" lift
And I will also look into the poly motor mounts. Thanks a lot for the suggestions and advice!
ARP head bolts or studs
ARP crank bolt
ARP flywheel bolts
ATI UD pulley
Upgraded oil pump
C5R timing chain
What springs are you using?
Poly motor mounts
Heat wrap everything in engine bay
Clutch remote bleeder (if manual car)
Not everything would be necessary, but worth considering if you're going this far.
Sorry for a rookie question but I'm still trying to learn about all of this stuff. What exactly does the clutch remote bleeder do for me? I do have a 6MT.
I'm almost positive that you can't re-use the GM MLS head gasket. If you use the Cometic gaskets, spray copper gasket sealer on both sides prior to assembly. I had no issues with my old LS2 build this way.
I'm positive. Done this on my C5 and know a bunch of guys who have reused them 4-5 times.
I'm personally not a fan of undersquare motors. Something I noticed and maybe it was a typo, but you have 1.85 rockers listed and .624" lift which I believe is stated with 1.7 rockers, so that would actually equate to .679"
LS3 rockers won't work with LS2 heads because one rocker is offset on each cylinder.
He's using LS3 heads. There's really no reason for the higher ratio rocker arms. Just spec the cam for the lift you want with the stock rocker arms. I'd limit the stroke to 4". You give up 12 cubic inches (or therabouts), but gain a little reliability. You won't notice the slighly smaller motor. The smaller motor is breathing the same amount of air at 6500 rpm as the bigger one does a 6300. I'd feel more comfortable with 200 more rpm vs an eighth inch more stroke.
Sorry for a rookie question but I'm still trying to learn about all of this stuff. What exactly does the clutch remote bleeder do for me? I do have a 6MT.
It makes it possible to actually bleed the clutch in the future, because the bleed screw is for all practical purposes unreachable once the engine is installed in the car.
The alternative is the so-called "Ranger method," where you dilute new fluid into the old fluid by replacing the contents of the reservoir and cycling the pedal.
It makes it possible to actually bleed the clutch in the future, because the bleed screw is for all practical purposes unreachable once the engine is installed in the car.
Do it, do it, do it, a million times do it. The speed bleeder kits are so cheap and you will thank yourself in the future.
OP, I'd do a better oil pump too. I use either the Melling 10296 or the SDPC blueprinted one with great results.
I'm assuming you've already got a cold air intake/headers/etc to compliment that build.