C6 a6 transmission cooler install
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
C6 a6 transmission cooler install
I'm about to install a transmission cooler on my car. Just put a stall in it and need to find out the size of the fittings for the lines front he transmission to the radiator. It's a 2007 z51 a6. With hard research I can't find anything on the right connectors.
Thanks
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Brownsville Texas
I'm about to install a transmission cooler on my car. Just put a stall in it and need to find out the size of the fittings for the lines front he transmission to the radiator. It's a 2007 z51 a6. With hard research I can't find anything on the right connectors.
Thanks
Thanks
2 - Summit 220649 6AN to 1/2" NPT threads
2 - Summit 220687 6AN 90 degree end swivel
2 - Summit 220690 6AN hose end straight
1 - Summit 230606 stainless steel braided hose - 6 ft.
1 - Dorman 800-605 fitting (available at your local parts house) ( 2 if you bypass the radiator)
1 pkg 12055 from Pure Choice Motorsports - you will use only 1 fitting if you run your cooler in series
1 - Russell 640830 M16 x 1.5 to -6AN Flare fittting
1 - B&M 80278 mounting kit
2 - 1 1/8 x7/8" grommets - Lowes ( you'll need to make 2 holes in the side of your shroud for your cooler lines). I used my dremel tool for this.
If you’re going to bypass the factory radiator – you will need another Russell 640830 fitting and another Dorman 800-605 fitting.
At first - I used a B&M Super Cooler 70266 and ran the lines in series. I wanted lower temperatures so I ended up bypassing the radiator all together.
These parts will allow you to connect to your factory lines without any cutting, splicing or using worm type clamps. Stainless braided hose is a PIA to work with but you just have to be patient. You could use regular A/T pressure rated line if you decide not to use braided lines.
Good Luck.
Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 75
From: Fairfield County, CT
This worked for me.
If you’re going to bypass the factory radiator – you will need another Russell 640830 fitting and another Dorman 800-605 fitting.
At first - I used a B&M Super Cooler 70266 and ran the lines in series. I wanted lower temperatures so I ended up bypassing the radiator all together.
These parts will allow you to connect to your factory lines without any cutting, splicing or using worm type clamps. Stainless braided hose is a PIA to work with but you just have to be patient. You could use regular A/T pressure rated line if you decide not to use braided lines.
Good Luck.
If you’re going to bypass the factory radiator – you will need another Russell 640830 fitting and another Dorman 800-605 fitting.
At first - I used a B&M Super Cooler 70266 and ran the lines in series. I wanted lower temperatures so I ended up bypassing the radiator all together.
These parts will allow you to connect to your factory lines without any cutting, splicing or using worm type clamps. Stainless braided hose is a PIA to work with but you just have to be patient. You could use regular A/T pressure rated line if you decide not to use braided lines.
Good Luck.
Where did you put the cooler?
I have the B&M Hi-Tek A/T Cooler with the 9 1/2" fan mounted in the front right wheel well, plumbed in series with a DeWitt's rad and although temps dropped nicely upon install, they have increased recently to the point where they are higher now than before the B&M.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 13,298
Likes: 14
From: Somers NY
Just curious, what type of cooler are you using,, the reason I ask is I had been using a "Finned Aluminum" cooler in my 96 when I had it, & I hit a piece of truck tire on the highway it broke the cooler...
I went to the local auto parts store, and NEEDED a COOLER NOW as I was going to race the following day...
They only had one type of cooler it was a "STACKED PLATE" type so I go it and hooked it up in place of the old one.. and with NO other changes my trans ran 15 - 20 deg cooler under ALL conditions !!
Since then (1998) the only type of trans cooler I'll buy is a Stacked Plate Type !!
For what its worth !!
I went to the local auto parts store, and NEEDED a COOLER NOW as I was going to race the following day...
They only had one type of cooler it was a "STACKED PLATE" type so I go it and hooked it up in place of the old one.. and with NO other changes my trans ran 15 - 20 deg cooler under ALL conditions !!
Since then (1998) the only type of trans cooler I'll buy is a Stacked Plate Type !!
For what its worth !!
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Brownsville Texas
Where did you put the cooler?
I have the B&M Hi-Tek A/T Cooler with the 9 1/2" fan mounted in the front right wheel well, plumbed in series with a DeWitt's rad and although temps dropped nicely upon install, they have increased recently to the point where they are higher now than before the B&M.
I have the B&M Hi-Tek A/T Cooler with the 9 1/2" fan mounted in the front right wheel well, plumbed in series with a DeWitt's rad and although temps dropped nicely upon install, they have increased recently to the point where they are higher now than before the B&M.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 75
From: Fairfield County, CT
You mentioned you wanted lower temps so you took the trans flow out of the rad. I have seen this debated. I went with thru the rad but will likely take it out once I relocated the B&M. How uch of a drop did you see removing the rad?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Brownsville Texas
I have my Setrab 625 EOC in front of the condenser so not sufficient room for a tranny cooler as well. Do you have a separate EOC?
You mentioned you wanted lower temps so you took the trans flow out of the rad. I have seen this debated. I went with thru the rad but will likely take it out once I relocated the B&M. How uch of a drop did you see removing the rad?
You mentioned you wanted lower temps so you took the trans flow out of the rad. I have seen this debated. I went with thru the rad but will likely take it out once I relocated the B&M. How uch of a drop did you see removing the rad?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,973
Likes: 1,020
From: SOFLA
2016 Corvette of Year
2015 C6 of Year Finalist
I have a B&M transmission cooler and it's mounted in the passenger side front bumper opening. Works well, really got my temps down on the track.
Drifting
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 75
From: Fairfield County, CT
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,022
Likes: 2,715
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
If so, which one does the fluid go through first?
Thnx.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the helpful info has any just tryed to cut the hose on one of the lines going to the radiator. Also trying to find what line is the supply and return to the radiator the top or bottom.
Thanks
Thanks
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
From: syracuse ny
the top line is return..dont cut the line..order the necessary connectors..
1 pkg 12055 from Pure Choice Motorsports - plugs into the radiator.
Dorman 800-605 fitting - attaches to radiator hose after removing from radiator
Russell 640830 M16 x 1.5 to -6AN Flare fittting - connects to the dorman fitting to allow the connection of the 6 an hose and fittings..
this way it is easily reversible and looks better...
all credit for fittings goes to Redrocket1045...thanks...
1 pkg 12055 from Pure Choice Motorsports - plugs into the radiator.
Dorman 800-605 fitting - attaches to radiator hose after removing from radiator
Russell 640830 M16 x 1.5 to -6AN Flare fittting - connects to the dorman fitting to allow the connection of the 6 an hose and fittings..
this way it is easily reversible and looks better...
all credit for fittings goes to Redrocket1045...thanks...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I simply disconnected the lines from the radiator, pushed a 3/8 hose over the ends, and double hose clamped it in place. Then again it's only been that way for 2 years and 30K miles, so maybe that's not the best approach. I keep the clips in the glovebox in case I need to revert to stock in a hurry.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 13,298
Likes: 14
From: Somers NY
Just as a side note..I have a Stacked Plate cooler that is hooked up AFTER the fluid runs through the radiator, then it goes to the aftermarket cooler.. It does NOT have a fan, and in traffic, if my fluid goes over 190 I put the car in Neutral whenever I come to a stop..& that seems to help...
Just a thought for those of you who do not have a fan on your cooler...
Just a thought for those of you who do not have a fan on your cooler...
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 27
From: Southampton NJ
I simply disconnected the lines from the radiator, pushed a 3/8 hose over the ends, and double hose clamped it in place. Then again it's only been that way for 2 years and 30K miles, so maybe that's not the best approach. I keep the clips in the glovebox in case I need to revert to stock in a hurry.
same thing for 6 years, i double clamped the cooler end but just slide the rubber hose over the bevel on the line i think i put the clips back on the radiator
i used an 12x12 hayden stacked plate dead center and the vararam still fits
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 13,298
Likes: 14
From: Somers NY
I agree with using the "Stacked Plate" type... I found it keeps my trans fluid 20+ deg cooler than the finned type!!