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I recently done a 403 swap in my 06 m6 c6. Wasn't that hard- I had to pull the crank and had the 58x swapped and I also swapped all my sensors off my old ls2 on my new ls2 block. Relocated the battery to the rear with 0 gauge wire.. Installed a digital fuel pressure gauge, eboost 2, and ngk wide band. Now when I push the start all the power shuts off for 20secs and then comes back on.. Repeats everytime I do this even If the clutch pedal is pushed it or not.. The fuse box is getting power and the starter both reading 12.6-7 volts.. I managed to fry one computer and I think this one fried as well because before I tried pulled starting it the starter would click, blocks not locked up I can rotate it with a flat head. Help please! I think it's the bcm, but dont want to replace it until I'm more sure about it
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Battery condition needs to be checked. It can read 12+ volts until amperage draw is on it then drop way low. Also if ECM fried you may have popped the ECM fuse in the underhood fuse block as well.
BCM may not enter in to it just yet. Get it cranking over then diagnose.
I'm on my 2nd ECM, I jumped the starter relay and the engine cranks over flawlessly but getting no spark so it has to be either my new ECM is fired or the bcm is cooked or both? Hopefully I can get my tuber to test te ECM soon, well if I buy a bcm could I get it programmed at the stealership (I'm sure a nice price) with the bcm out of the car? Autozone cleared the battery good
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
It's not going to get spark by jumping the relay. The entire system has to be energized. There's another thread going on where a member bought a flood car and is experiencing similar problems with the crack circuit. Might check some of his responses.
Also check the ECM fuse. You can spend a lot of money throwing things at the car. It's money well spent having a mechanic with a TechII plug in and tell you what's going on with the systems.
When I put my car together I had wiring issues with the main engine harness. We isolated the problem and had the car running long before installing the BCM.
Are you getting any codes. You may have to recal the clutch switch. If the calibration is not on the clutch switch it will do exactly what it is doing now. If you have a tech2 you can look in the data and it will tell you when it is engaged and disengaged.
Never thought it would be the cluth recal.. How would I go about checkin that, no I don't have a tech 2 nor do I know anyone. My dad has one of those autozone things that check for codes but since the check engine light isn't coming on nothing is happening
Computer #2 is fried... At this point I'm start to get discourage with this build.. Cost me 350-400$ each time a computer fries.. Anyone kno what would cause this?
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Now for the fun part. I'd pull both harnesses off the ECM and start checking each pin with a meter for a dead short/ground. I'd also get a note pad to keep track as there are about 50 pins in one and 70 in the other.
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
You probably need to check the harness itself now to make sure it wasn't nicked/cut/crushed when the engine was reinstalled. I'd pay attention to the back corners of the engine block as there are some sharp edges.
I can plug my ecu in and run a tech 2 couldn't I? My buddy has a snap on solus ultra would that work besides the tech 2? Also would a crappy bcm do this? I really don't understand how the ECM fried because I thought there's fuse able links or some kinda relay that would prevent it
I can plug my ecu in and run a tech 2 couldn't I? My buddy has a snap on solus ultra would that work besides the tech 2? Also would a crappy bcm do this? I really don't understand how the ECM fried because I thought there's fuse able links or some kinda relay that would prevent it
I am not sure that a Snap On will do it, but it is worth a shot.
I have to ask the basics though, why do you think the ECU is fried?
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
I'd look at post #11 prior to plugging in a $4000.00 plus tool. The tech II is pretty sensitive and can be ruined easily.
Originally Posted by marine&hisvette
I can plug my ecu in and run a tech 2 couldn't I? My buddy has a snap on solus ultra would that work besides the tech 2? Also would a crappy bcm do this? I really don't understand how the ECM fried because I thought there's fuse able links or some kinda relay that would prevent it