After being rear ended at lunch, I start having clutch problems....it's not related.

Problems: clutch doesn't engage until about halfway down with the pedal...the problems was intermittent....and then finally it stays that way. It never stayed on the floor...and still doesn't.

Decided to open clutch "fill" cap...and the rubber boot was all bunched together and as I went to put it back , it will not fit, I tried for an hour, it's like it has swollen.

Clutch still engages...but I don't want to drive it, should I just go ahead and replace with the tick master, will this solve my problem?

I searched the forum...the threads I found didn't have an answer, or it talked about clutch on the floor, my clutch return spring is not broken

Thanks for any help...apologize for the grammar...still pissed about my bent exhaust and the 1 inch hole in my bumper.

 

When I bought my c5 it had 30k on it. In 12 months I put 20k on it and had disengagement problems.. I had an LS7 clutch and master installed.. got the expected results I was looking for but once I ran it hard through a couple gears the old problem was back. It felt like 'chattering' and like I had dirty clutch disengagements. I knew I had some sort of pressure plate / master hydraulic failure and the syncro's were being chewed up.

500 miles later.. I then had a Stage 2 build, reused the LS7 clutch and tick master installed. This isn't cheap. About 4000 bucks out the door. I added a pedal extension to get the throw I was looking for. Its very nice once your used to it after a days drive, but I cant even let a shop tech drive it without trouble now. It's pretty much like a C5R.

Now that the clutch engaged right I had one last problem, the B&M was rattling. So I purchased an MGW upper shift box assembly. 300$ and a 50th Anny shift ball.

I would suggest this- If your trans does not rattle like rocks in a can and doesn't feel loose engaging and loading/unloading the throttle purchase a tick master and call it a day.

If you hear tube noise like a snow blowers auger, get the tube rebuilt with one side a DSS poly bushing and the other a new OE bushing and new bearings at the same time. I went dual poly and its a little rough over bumps if you dont load the trans up. Its like driving a motorcycle.

If you want a track-like shifter that will give you feedback for gear engagement (and disengagement) get an MGW to finish the job. If you want easier shorter shifting just change the ****.

If I could do it over again I would only change the clutch that the shop choose for installation. The LS7 is a terrible clutch. Everything else I would keep the same.

 

When you get the tick purchase the pedal extension and have it all installed at once. I asked about it not to long ago its been a great buy. Might as well have the pedal adjusted while he's in there. Dont screw around and wait. Failing hydraulics lead to failing syncros which lead to trans rebuild...

 

PostingOk....Its Fixed...Even Though I'm Probably Going To Get Flamed,,,Here It Goes.....

Apparently, I Mistakenly Put The Wrong Fluid In The Reservoir, Causing The RuBber BladdeR To Swell, Thus Eliminating The Seal Of The Reservoir Cap, And Getting Air Into The Master Cylinder,

Only Way To Get The RUbber Bladder Is To Purchase A Complete Master Cylinder,,($92),

Performed The Ranger Method, And Things Seem To Be Working Perfectly.....No More Clutch Pedal Play....
Ok...I Hate Searching For Threads, And People Never POsting Their "Fix"

So...Go Ahead....Flame On

 

If you contaminated the fluid now is a great opportunity to install a tick master. Very worth it.

 

I'm going to check it every day and see what happens....if it breaks,,,it breaks....thanks for the help, when's eventually replace the clutch,,,ill install the tick,,,and take better care of the clutch