So I utilized the ranger method and cleared the reservoir maybe or 8 times pumping clutch 50 times between siphoning out fluid. After that the fluid was relatively clear but then I went for a short 5 mile drive when I returned my fluid was filthy again. Is this normal and it takes a few times to actually get it to remain somewhat clear? I just purchased this car it has 20000 miles 2009 C6 Coupe and the fluid looked like Coffee you get while aboard Navy Ship. Which is why I immediately executed the ranger method.

 

I would do it again. I do not have any experience with any problems arising.

I did my 08 from the nearly the start and in the beginning it took only two exchanges to get it clean. I do it whenever I think of it now, maybe every 1500-2000 miles and it is always clear.

It would seem that your fluid was neglected and might take more exchanges to rid the fluid of the seal containments.

I will say though that 8 times is the most I have read on this forum and still have dirty fluid. Most usually take 1-4 times the latter if dirty and neglected some.

 

Same story here... Turned black right after I took it for a ride!

 

You may get some different opinions here, but yes I think it's normal, this is a good procedure and gets rid of a lot of the accumulated contamination in the system, but you will never move every bit of old fluid out doing this, and I don't think you need to worry about it to that degree, I have also heard that some of the discoloration comes from the dyes in the hoses and tubing in the system and the fluid will never stay absolutely clear after a few miles are put on the car, I would do this procedure every couple of months and not worry about the color.

 

I put in a Tick master with their bleeder and my black fluid issues went away. It still gets black, but then I bleed it and it is clear again for several months.

I gave up on the Ranger method after several tries.

 

Could you elaborate please? The only Tick I know of is a parasite.

 

Could you further explain the Tick Master I have heard something about this and it is my understanding it is installed on the slave cylinder on the clutch but is extremely hard to get to without moving the motor a little to do the install, I have also heard that it sometimes leaks.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c6-z06/

Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kits are built here in the USA around Tilton 7/8” Bore Cylinders (the same used in NASCAR every Sunday) and are made adjustable so that you can tailor the amount of fluid that your system needs in order to fully disengage ANY clutch, from stock to hardcore race-only clutches. With our kit installed, you’ll notice:

A slightly stiffer (we normally see ~15%), shorter pedal (in most cases) due to the increased cylinder bore
A clutch pedal that is easier to modulate with a predictable, constant engagement point
Effortless shifts at any RPM (especially high RPM), even when driving extremely aggressively
Longer clutch & transmission life as a result of a properly-disengaging clutch
Multiple other issues and annoyances fixed, including the infamous “crashed pedal”


Every Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit ships complete with everything needed to install, including our Unrestricted and Heat-Wrapped Stainless Braided Clutch Hydraulic Line (eliminating the need for the "drill mod"), all necessary hardware, and easy to understand instructions. Installation generally takes 90-120 minutes (minor drilling required) and adjustments can be made at any time without any tools.

Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kits are capable of more fluid flow than any competitor’s offering, and we stand behind them with a LIFETIME Warranty against leakage. Rest assured that with our kit installed, you'll have the quickest shifting, most reliable kit available under your left foot!

To Download the Instructions for TAMCKYBC6, please right click here and "Save Link As"
To Download the Supplemental Instructions for Longer Length line, please right click here and "Save Link As"

Option Guide: Do I need the Shorter Line, Longer Line or Both Lines?
Our kit in it's basic form includes the Heat-Wrapped, Stainless Braided "Short Line" and DOES NOT require removal of the transmission. If you want to eliminate the bulky OEM quick disconnect fitting and the factory steel & expandable rubber line that connects to your slave cylinder, our "Long Line" is a Heat-Wrapped, Stainless Braided full-length line that couples our Master directly to your stock slave cylinder. This line provides the best, most unrestricted connection, but requires transmission removal to install. If you don't want to remove your transmission now, but plan to later, you can order the kit with both lines. Don't forget our Remote SPEEDbleeder Line while you've got the transmission out (sold separately!)

Bleeder link.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/

Bleeding the late model GM hydraulic system in it's stock form is a bear. You've got to have someone pump the pedal while you're under the car cracking the bleeder and hoping everybody's timing is right - not to mention keeping the reservoir full! It's easy to see how something so simple can quickly turn into a huge ordeal.

With our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line, Tick Performance is taking great strides in making things much easier on you. At 4'+ in length, you're able to route the line to nearly anywhere on the car you want. Here in house, we usually zip tie it to a brake line coming out of the brake master cylinder so it's easy to reach with the hood popped. Another huge improvement is our SPEEDbleeder end - allowing you to simply crack it open one time and close it once the air is out of the system, instead of having to open and close the bleeder with every pump of the pedal.

Why hassle with your hydraulic system every time you want to bleed it? Rely on Tick Performance to make the job much easier for you with our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line. A must-install next time you've got the transmission out of your LS1 Camaro & Firebird, 97-04 Corvette & Z06 or 04-06 Pontiac GTO.

 

Just keep doing it a few more times and then twice or so per every oil change....only takes about a minute.

Initially the brown is stain from the seals and then its actual contaminants so yours might have been really bad...


It really helps the shifting by the way....

 

Ranger method has kept the fluid in the car clean very well. The first few drives after changing it the fluid was dark. Not sure how many times it took, but the fluid stays clear now through many drives (car is my daily driver).

 

 

Don't sit in the garage pumping the clutch...change the fluid and then drive it for a few days, then change again. After a few times, it will clear up and stay that way longer.

 

I started doing mine when the car was new and it took two or three months of weekly changes before it stayed clear for any long period of time. Now, seven years later, it takes about six months of driving before it starts to darken.

 

I have been using the Ranger method for years, and sometimes you have to clean out the old fluid and put new fluid in about 4-6 times if the fluid had not been changed regularly. The fluid WILL remain clean with enough fluid changes. It took about 7 cleanings and refills before the fluid STAYED clean in the 2006 that I just bought.

 

One of the last things I'll worry about is dark clutch fluid!

 

Think about it from another perspective, 8 times 50 pumps = 400 times seal wear.

Do like couple other member suggested, siphon the fluid - drive and repeat. It might take 1000 pump cycles but no wasted wear on the seal.

I patiently did that initially and fluid eventually cleared up - it does not stay 100% clear due to seal wear, but only need occasional change to keep it relatively clear.

 

It's going to take a few cycles to really get the old fluid out. There's no way for the debris particles to return to the master cylinder besides floating up to the top so your best bet is to buy a couple bottles of brake fluid and take it around the block a few times and keep cycling. After breaking in my new clutch and putting down 664whp my fluid looks only slightly brown but I can see debris in the MC. Just gotta cycle it to make sure it all gets out.

 

everytime I drove it for about a month, I changed it; now I only have to do it maybe once a month and even at that, its pretty clear.............fluid is cheap and its easy to do, so im not worried about going overboard...........

 

I even stopped pumping the pedal. I just remove via a syringe and refill. Stays clean with maybe 3-4 yearly changes covering 5,000 miles.

I am easy on the clutch but and I do practice engine braking.

 

Good luck when you have to replace a clutch in a C6!