Hi guys,

I'm new to the site. I looked around for an answer to my question, read through the FAQ section and couldn't come up with anything. I work at a shop in Tokyo, and we had a customer bring us their 2006 Z06 today. I'll bullet the issues its having and then give a brief description of what I have done so far.

- Drivers door can only be opened manually via lever on floor.
- Drivers side controls in door card unresponsive (seat adjustment works).
- Drivers window stuck open
- Drivers door card controls for passenger side work (window, mirror adjustment).
- The owner reports the car will randomly not start. When this occurs he has disconencted the battery and reconnected it and the car will start. We have not been able to replicate this issue since its been in our shop though.

I looked it over for any obvious wiring issues and couldn't find anything. The CEL since having the car but Tech 2 gives me these codes:

U1000 from BCM and from IPC: Class 2 data link.

We have a ACDelco TDS subscription with the Tech 2. They say to replace the faulty module when this happens. I'm a bit hesitant to do that right away, so I tried to simply reporogram the BCM using the GM MDI, but they didn't have the BCM as an option for modules to reprogram. I checked and we have the most up to date software, so I'm a bit stumped. I did some research and it seemed like the column lock might be a possible culprit? The cluster does say "service colomn lock", but in my research that wouldn't seem to explain the window and mirror issues.

If there are any Chevy techs who wouldn't mind weighing in on the situation with experience or tips I's really appreciate it. Also if anyone knows why I can't access the BCM for reprogramind using GM MDI I'd be intersted to hear that as well.

I appreciate any of you who took the time to read through all this!

Cheers,
Isaac

 

I'd check the battery first to make sure it good and strong. Anything less that a good battery will create weird stuff to happen.

Next I'd clean all the grounds points. There are about seven of them. Once you know you have good power and good grounds things will be easier to eliminate.

With the aluminum frame you really have to make sure you have good connections. Which I'm sure you already know.

 

As long as your battery is in good condition, you can index your window by raising the window to the top limit. Then hold the switch for three seconds in the up position, release and repeat. That indexes the window and in my case, allowed the door to open by the button once again. There is a page in the owners manual describing the indexing of windows after a battery replacement. Good luck.

 

First do as recommended above and make sure you have good power and ground. If that checks out then you will have to dig in deeper. When you press the door opening buttons on the outside of the door does the red light at the top rear of the door flicker? If so that might indicate the door module needs replacing or the connectors feeding the module be cleaned and verified they have a good connection. If the door module isn't operating correctly the window will not index properly and the door will not open whether the inside or outside push buttons are used. When my module went bad the door wouldn't open and the window started cycling up and down when the door was closed.

Bill

 

Thanks for the responses guys!

Thanks for this tip. The battery is brand new, and I went over the grounds and everything is looking good...but no solution to our issues

Thanks for the how-to on indexing the windows. I might have be unclear in my first post, but the window is stuck fully open, and will not move at all.

Hi Bill, Thanks for the suggestions. I had read that the door modules can get water in them and cause similar issues to the ones we are describing so I did investigate this on the car. The passenger side door can be opened manually from the outside and the red indicator lights flashes as it should. The drivers side indicator light never comes on. I swapped the modules left for right, and no change in the symptom, which tells me those modules are fine.


Does anyone know why I wouldn't be able to reprogram the BCM using my Tech 2 or my MDI? I just renewed my subscription a month or two ago and everything seems to be up to date.

** Edit ** I just performed the BCM Programing configuration along with the BPP sensor calibration and there is no change. Sometimes we have solved issues after simply re-programing modules instead of actually replacing them, so I thought it was worth a shot...However I'm still getting the same DTC's as above. I'm leaning towards replacing the BCM at this point, any thoughts?

Thanks again for the help guys. I'll post up any new info I find.

Isaac

 

From the service manual:

The driver door lock switch lock and unlock signal circuits provide input to the driver window switch when the driver door lock switch is activated to the Lock or Unlock position. These inputs allow the driver window switch to detect a door lock or unlock request. The driver window switch provides power to the driver door lock switch. When the driver window switch detects low voltage on a signal circuit, the driver window switch will send a message on the serial data line to the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) to place the driver and passenger doors in lock or unlock status, disabling or enabling the power door latch.


You should check the power to the driver window switch. If it isn't getting power it can't supply the 12V pull down level to the driver door lock switch. If you find the power is getting to the modules then you need to check the RCDLR to see if it is supplying power to the door latch in the B pillar. If the Class 2 data bus has a problem the RCDLR may not be getting the signal from the driver window switch.



If you have a scanner that can read body codes there are several fault codes that could help you isolate the problem.


Since your door indicator isn't flashing I suspect you have an issue with the voltage supplied to the door modules. It might be a good idea to check the ground at G201. G201 is located in the instrument panel harness, in the passenger compartment, at the base of the left A-pillar behind trim panel (CKT 1450).
See if you can find somebody with a Tech 2 or Autoenginuity scan software that can read the door codes.

Bill .

 

Bill,

Thanks very much for the reply! A few other things came up, but was able to dig into this issue today. We are getting 12V as into the DDM but not coming out of it. Everything else seems to be sending power as it should. Since the door module is connected to the window regulator everything makes pretty good sense. I checked with out usual parts place and they only have the right side, so I'm checking a few other suppliers to see about getting the left hand window regulator ordered.

By the way I have a Tech 2 and the accompanying subscription, which did make this a bit easier.

Thanks again! If we swap out the part and everything is good I'll confirm in this thread for posterity!

Isaac

 

Just to update,

The window regulator assy showed up yesterday from the states and I got it swapped out. Everything now works except the red LED light in the door card won't light. For now I'm not worries about that as the door will open/ shut, lock/ unlock and the window goes up and down. The side mirror also moves as it should.

Thanks for all the help! Hope this will help some others in the future having the same issues.