Removing engine from top...one bolt left...BAH!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
Removing engine from top...one bolt left...BAH!!!
...and I can't get to that little bugger.
Tips on removing the 13mm bellhousing bolt just above the starter?
The bolt is angled just right where I can't get a wrench to line up over it and turn counter clockwise.
Not enough room to fit a socket/wrench...and the angle of the housing at that spot is such that when I CAN get an open end wrench over it, it simply slips off when trying to loosen.
Can't get to it from the bottom because of trans cooler lines and the starter hump.
Doing this driveway style...no lift available...so if anybody says drop it from the bottom, I'm going to kick a puppy. Hard.
j/k...maybe.
Tips on removing the 13mm bellhousing bolt just above the starter?
The bolt is angled just right where I can't get a wrench to line up over it and turn counter clockwise.
Not enough room to fit a socket/wrench...and the angle of the housing at that spot is such that when I CAN get an open end wrench over it, it simply slips off when trying to loosen.
Can't get to it from the bottom because of trans cooler lines and the starter hump.
Doing this driveway style...no lift available...so if anybody says drop it from the bottom, I'm going to kick a puppy. Hard.
j/k...maybe.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
It's been 3 years since I did mine, so don't give me a hard time if this is wrong. But I think I was using some really long extensions and a socket for most all of those bolts, so the ratchet was about 2-3 feet away.
One thing I found, was raising the engine slightly sometimes made thing easier to reach. Not sure if that helps here.
One thing I found, was raising the engine slightly sometimes made thing easier to reach. Not sure if that helps here.
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From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
drop it from the bottom and post pics of kicked puppy.
I believe you are going to have to raise or lower to get to it.
I believe you are going to have to raise or lower to get to it.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 25
From: Apache Junction AZ
Have you tried with a universal joint between the socket and the extension.
I have to agree that dropping the cradle way down makes it a piece of cake to get at all the bell housing bolts. You would be amazed how far you can drop it.
I have to agree that dropping the cradle way down makes it a piece of cake to get at all the bell housing bolts. You would be amazed how far you can drop it.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
It's been a while now but seems like we disconnected the torque tube from the bell housing to get it out then do whatever with the bell housing once out.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
Ahhh...I was pretty conservative in my cradle dropping...haven't dropped it quite that far. Lol. Didn't want to damage anything. That would probably make the difference.
I'll report back. Thanks.
And Bob, I'm back in TN, so you better call if you roll through here in that new ride I saw you post pics of.
And the nearest puppy to kick belongs to the little neighbor girl...so I'll have to wait til she gets up to crush her puppy...but at least it may make a little girl cry....THAT'S the photo you want. You sick bastard!
:P
I'll report back. Thanks.
And Bob, I'm back in TN, so you better call if you roll through here in that new ride I saw you post pics of.
And the nearest puppy to kick belongs to the little neighbor girl...so I'll have to wait til she gets up to crush her puppy...but at least it may make a little girl cry....THAT'S the photo you want. You sick bastard!:P
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 508
From: Oshawa, Ontario
...and I can't get to that little bugger.
Tips on removing the 13mm bellhousing bolt just above the starter?
The bolt is angled just right where I can't get a wrench to line up over it and turn counter clockwise.
Not enough room to fit a socket/wrench...and the angle of the housing at that spot is such that when I CAN get an open end wrench over it, it simply slips off when trying to loosen.
Can't get to it from the bottom because of trans cooler lines and the starter hump.
Doing this driveway style...no lift available...so if anybody says drop it from the bottom, I'm going to kick a puppy. Hard.
j/k...maybe.
Tips on removing the 13mm bellhousing bolt just above the starter?
The bolt is angled just right where I can't get a wrench to line up over it and turn counter clockwise.
Not enough room to fit a socket/wrench...and the angle of the housing at that spot is such that when I CAN get an open end wrench over it, it simply slips off when trying to loosen.
Can't get to it from the bottom because of trans cooler lines and the starter hump.
Doing this driveway style...no lift available...so if anybody says drop it from the bottom, I'm going to kick a puppy. Hard.
j/k...maybe.
Last edited by irok; Nov 4, 2013 at 11:56 AM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
I got it. Dropping just another inch was all it needed. I was just afraid to drop it that far for fear of damaging something.
Trying to separate it from the bell housing now.
Trying to separate it from the bell housing now.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
Grrrr....won't seem to separate from the input shaft. The block is free and separated...I can get a pry bar between the block and bell...but won't seem to slide forward enough to free the input shaft.
Am I missing something? I thought it just wiggled off.
I don't mind some elbow grease...just afraid of damaging some splines or something...
Thanks guys. Last time I pulled an engine it was exponentially easier with 3 wires and a handful of bolts. Lol!
Am I missing something? I thought it just wiggled off.
I don't mind some elbow grease...just afraid of damaging some splines or something...
Thanks guys. Last time I pulled an engine it was exponentially easier with 3 wires and a handful of bolts. Lol!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 25
From: Apache Junction AZ
I hate to tell you this....but I'm afraid you are going to have to drop the rear cradle so that you can slide the whole drive line back enough to give you the clearance you need. Maybe there are other more experienced members who know of a short cut that I'm not aware of.
BJK
BJK
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
I have enough physical room...removed everything (balancer, steering, a/c, radiator, etc..) and the engine is down to just the shortblock.
I've got it separated about an inch, It just won't break free.
I've got it separated about an inch, It just won't break free.
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2024 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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I got him all squared away - he wasn't aware of the Torx bolt holding the clamp on the front of the torque tube. Once he loosened that everything separated easily.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
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From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 767
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From: Keller TX
He meant is it specific to a manual trans car. Specifically, is it the T40 torx bolt that attaches the lower shift box to the shift linkage? That is the only torx I can think of on the torque tube. Unless he is separating the tube from the trans I can't think of why that has to come off to separate the tube from the bellhousing? Just trying to learn here, thanks!