Recently purchased 05 Z51. I noticed how black my clutch fluid is. Searched the fourm and found it pretty much imposible to bleed at the slave cylinder. I'll wait until I replace the clutch to bleed at the slave. I'm going to attempt rangers method with syringe. My question is wouldn't that allow air into my clutch system if I just suck all the fluid out and add new? I don't want to have to tear my drivetrain out bc I decided to bleed the slave. Thx guys

 

I use to do and never had an issue with air. I fixed it when I installed a Dyad clutch and Tick master and bleeder.

 

You are just removing the fluid in the reservoir up top. All the fluid in the line doesn't get touched.

 

If your feeling adventurous you can bleed the slave from underneath without removing the drive line. My hands and arms are to big so i have to remove the exhaust to bleed the slave (from the slave cylinder). If your doing the ranger method just exercise caution and don't suck anything out of the hole just out of the reservoir.

 

If you're motivated, here's a "modified" Ranger method using tiny tubing to go down into the slave from the reservoir: (be sure to read post 20 too)

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...er-method.html

 

the Ranger method works just fine, don't worry. it IS LIKELY to take a few times to get it clean though, but after you do it will stay that way. I flush mine every 6 months and it stays clean.

 

Thanks guys. I would really like to bleed from the slave if it is possible. Anyone have a link to a write up?

 

Do a search. Some have done it by pulling intake manifold, others removed exhaust. Either way it is nearly impossible unless you have a 6 year old's hands. Getting in there with a wrench

 

Suck up the fluid for now, and put a bleeder on next time you have things apart...

I have the bleeder on my slave, and still use the ranger method sometimes, it really does help. You can carefully just push paper towels down into the reservoir, and soak it up...

 

Don't make so much work for yourself. Use the Ranger method, over and over again until clean. Believe us when we say it works. Thousands are doing it successfully and without all that extra work of adding a bleeder when unnecessary.

It's a recirculating fluid system. Eventually, the fresh fluid from the reservoir makes its way down and flushes out all that nasty clutch dust.

Be sure to cover the master cylinder when pumping and to always use small bottles of fresh fluid that have been tightly capped if not all used up. Small bottles are to assure that you are not contaminating any left-over fluid from the environment. This fluid uptakes moisture very rapidly.

 

That is INCORRECT. No such thing. Search for a schematic so you can see how it works. Or simply look at your reservoir; there's only one line at the bottom. It goes to the master cylinder, and it ends at the slave. The other valve on the slave is to bleed it, not a return. Hope this helps.

I've been using the 'ranger' method since day and mile 1, but it's no substitute for a proper bleeding job. If I had bought the car used, I'd find a way to do it. Even my new car had semi-dark fluid already. The ranger method definitely helps, and the crap floats up to the reservoir, but if you were able to bleed the system, you'd find the initial fluid coming out of the slave black as hell.

The problem with contaminated fluid is two-fold on this car. First, the slave is absolute crap, and doesn't even have dust covers, so fluid will ALWAYS get contaminated over time, no matter what you do. The other problem when new is the internal rubber line contamination, which eventually stops. That's why if you don't do the 'ranger' method and wait years, you'd find all kinds of crap in the reservoir. Not good at all.

Finally, to minimize brake fluid contamination at the slave it helps to drill holes into BOTH bellhousing plastic covers, to ventilate that area. But you'd still get contamination. After about 20 suck/refill jobs in about 5,400 miles (what I have now), it takes longer for the fluid to get dirty, but it still does. And will continue to do so. But the reservoir is so small the cost is minimal. Not a huge deal to suck the fluid every thousand miles or so. Rather do that than attempting to bleed it properly, or trying to install a remote bleeder. But again, I'm only settling for this method because I bought the car new. Good luck.

 

Thanks for all advice guys. I did the ranger method and will bleed from slave when its time for clutch replacement.

 

I recently topped off my clutch fluid. The previous owner had let the fluid get way below the MIN line. The small short tube/straw looking thing that protrudes from the bottom of the reservoir was exposed to the air. Is this going to give me any problems? Should I bleed the system?

Thanks guys!

 

Nope...all is fine, the level needs to get much lower than that to introduce air...the master cylinder is way down below the reservoir. Relax and do the Ranger method and then drive the car to mix the old and new fluid.

 

Its a pain. But to get to the bleeder you have to drop the exhaust, remove the tunnel plate and maybe the left cat. I have high flow cat's so they are small enough to get my hand up there. But there is very little room for your hand and a stubby wrench. You can only use 3 fingers on the wrench. You have to hold the wrench with your middle finger and rest it on your first and third finger.... I've been there!

In fact, my comments then:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...-pictures.html

The ranger method works great as long as you only want to get some fresh fluid in the system. I bled my system about a year ago and still replace the reservoir fluid about every time I raise the hood.

 

Remove exhaust and squeeze hand and wrench up the driver side bell housing, I'm 6'1 190lb and can fit my hand somewhat enough to loosen the valve to bleed it, just depends how flexible you can be... It is possible, next time clutch / slave is out install a remote bleeder

 

I never cease to be amazed--and NOT in a good way--at how the GM engineers could have continued on with this design for so many years and not included a remote bleeder at some point. I mean, what's the cost? Even if it was an extra $100? On a $60,000+ car? Bleeding a hydraulic system is essentially a routine maintenance chore. Seems as unreasonable (Stupid? Shortsighted?) as designing an engine that required complete disassembly to change the oil filter….

 

I suspect the cost would be in the low 1 figures.

GM offers all sorts of pretentious options for "track" drivers, but this is one they could actually use. The slave cylinder lives in an unusually inhospitable environment in these cars so fluid maintenance actually matters.

They could call it "competition clutch hydraulics" and charge $200 for the option. I'd have ordered it.

 

Count me in on that option as well! $200 would be a deal in my book.