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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Planning for front end refurb
Good Morning:
My 2006 Daily driver is getting a tad tired in the front end, and I keep a spare car, so this spring it is time to do some fix up. Here's what I've got planned:
1 - Pull the front bumper cover and have it re-sprayed - it has a few stone chips, and it is pretty scuffed up underneath.
2 - Replace the (cracked in several places) lower radiator bracket/skid plate/bracket. I will probably add the aftermarket scuff covers sold by the vendor here.
3 - Send the headlights to have the lenses replaced by the guy here that gets such good reviews, having spent lots of time in the Hawaii sun.
4 - While in there replace the chirping harmonic balancer, which has been steady state noisy for years.
What targets of opportunity am I missing here, while I've got the front end apart? Maintenance wise or improvement wise. FWIW, the car has just over 80K miles and will be 8 years old next month.
What targets of opportunity am I missing here, while I've got the front end apart? Maintenance wise or improvement wise. FWIW, the car has just over 80K miles and will be 8 years old next month.
The radiator's plastic end tanks are prone to spring leaks where they attach to the core. Sometimes the stress of pulling the hoses and/or wrestling the aging radiator around in the engine compartment is enough to push them over the edge.
The good news is you can replace a leaking radiator after you're all done. If you do, I'd get one with TIG-welded aluminum end tanks so you don't have to worry about it ever again.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by torquetube
The radiator's plastic end tanks are prone to spring leaks where they attach to the core. Sometimes the stress of pulling the hoses and/or wrestling the aging radiator around in the engine compartment is enough to push them over the edge.
The good news is you can replace a leaking radiator after you're all done. If you do, I'd get one with TIG-welded aluminum end tanks so you don't have to worry about it ever again.
Solid thought.
It makes sense to go through the cooling system while I've got the front end apart. Since it will be 8 years old, I should probably replace the hoses and belts while in there, and inspect or replace the radiator.
Maybe even the water pump, which has shown up before as a weak point on these cars.
Yes, he's the one and there used to be another vendor, Maryland something or other. At 80K miles, and 8 yrs. old if you haven't done rad drain and fill, may as well. el es tu jus did a writeup on spark plugs/wires changed out, and you're nearing the 100K mark. front end mostly apart, could consider new belt(s), too. I read somewhere about the GY gatorbacks. if you're doing the HB, are you going ATI, Powerbond or stock?
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by AORoads
Yes, he's the one and there used to be another vendor, Maryland something or other. At 80K miles, and 8 yrs. old if you haven't done rad drain and fill, may as well. el es tu jus did a writeup on spark plugs/wires changed out, and you're nearing the 100K mark. front end mostly apart, could consider new belt(s), too. I read somewhere about the GY gatorbacks. if you're doing the HB, are you going ATI, Powerbond or stock?
Yep, reading around in associated threads, I've added the full cooling system service to this list, as well as plugs and wires. Since, at my current rate of use, it will take until the car is 12 years old before reaching 100k miles. No way do I want steel plugs remaining in aluminum heads for that long.
Wonder if I should just toss in headers and a cam at this point?
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
Yep, reading around in associated threads, I've added the full cooling system service to this list, as well as plugs and wires. Since, at my current rate of use, it will take until the car is 12 years old before reaching 100k miles. No way do I want steel plugs remaining in aluminum heads for that long.
Wonder if I should just toss in headers and a cam at this point?
Mine is an 08 and I just replaced my air filter, Plugs and wires at 90K miles. My fuel dropped substantially recently from ave 27 to 18-19 on the highway.
After the maintenance the fuel mileage is back to 26 - 27 mph and I have a noticeable performance improvement that I assume I didn't notice diminish over a period of time.
A while back I did swap out a Hot Cam for an LS7 cam for various reasons that maintained a nice little performance bump.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by RLSebring
Mine is an 08 and I just replaced my air filter, Plugs and wires at 90K miles. My fuel dropped substantially recently from ave 27 to 18-19 on the highway.
After the maintenance the fuel mileage is back to 26 - 27 mph and I have a noticeable performance improvement that I assume I didn't notice diminish over a period of time.
A while back I did swap out a Hot Cam for an LS7 cam for various reasons that maintained a nice little performance bump.
Wow, that is quite a mpg dip. I keep a tank by tank gas mileage log, and mine has shown no such drop, but I'll be watching for it. Could you determine the reason for the drop by inspection of the removed parts?
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
Wow, that is quite a mpg dip. I keep a tank by tank gas mileage log, and mine has shown no such drop, but I'll be watching for it. Could you determine the reason for the drop by inspection of the removed parts?
Hmm, a LS7 cam, huh?
I travel a lot and over the course of 2 maybe 3 trips I noticed something was definitely wrong. Car wasn't necessarily running different and I thought the weather was just really crappy on 2 of the trips then I ran in some really nice weather and knew at that point I needed to do something.
I was going to replace the items one at a time to see which was the culprit but ended up doing it all at once and on the test drive the mileage was back where it should be.
The air cleaner element was somewhat dirty but not clogged. The plus had an even wear on them. The gap had burned to about .50 or so. The plug wires were ohming out pretty different among them so I'd say most of the problem was there but a combo of all 3.
LS7 cam was good for me. Had the Hot Cam which was great as long as the car was rolling. Very low speed Drive-ability and idling was a 2 year PITA until I switched cams to a much better LSA. Runs about the same but idles now and doesn't stall at the red light.
The radiator's plastic end tanks are prone to spring leaks where they attach to the core. Sometimes the stress of pulling the hoses and/or wrestling the aging radiator around in the engine compartment is enough to push them over the edge.
This your lucky day! Dewitt just put new radiators on sale!
Once you see the difference you will know why people that have them recommend them.
well if your going to have the nose off there are many that can sand and buff the head lights just like new, and I don't mean like you see on tv, and if you look around you can find like new "take-offs" I got one for $200 and another for $400 now I can send my broken ones for repair
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by CMY SIX
well if your going to have the nose off there are many that can sand and buff the head lights just like new, and I don't mean like you see on tv, and if you look around you can find like new "take-offs" I got one for $200 and another for $400 now I can send my broken ones for repair
Going to have Robert Sebring (RLSebring forum name - see his post above) remove and replace the lenses with new ones. This time, garaged and out of the Hawaii sun, I hope to get 10 years out of them.