3.42 help




Mostly. 
The 2.56 gear will finish the 1/4 mi in 3rd and will be roughly .1 slower than the 3.42 that crosses the stripe near the end of 4th.
The downside of the 3.42 gear is the drop in MPG along with increased engine wear. The bigger concern is that the 3-4 shift is the weak part of the A6 and responsible for most of the WOT failures.
Even a mild 3200 stall converter will gain .2-.3 in the 1/4 mi at 1/2 the price of a gear change.
If it can't smoke the tires, it definitely needs more parts, in my book. My Vette is a dog out of the hole, IMV.Then again, I've gotten used to launching a 1200 hp race car off the brake on spray, so my Vette feels pretty damn tame, compared to that...
As someone who has done it, I can tell you that before adding power it made my car drive much better in everyday driving.
As far as track times, it depends on many things. If you live where I do, which is the "LS2 power adders" list, it seems 3.42's are a good add. Many of the faster cars have them.
For over a year my car has been the fastest A6 car on that list and that is with 3.42s and a stock converter.
Well, I went with both - converter (Yank PT3200) and then the gears. The converter was good for ~.20 secs in the 1/8 and the gears for only about ~.10. At first I was surprised. I thought that surely there should have been bigger gains, especially compared to what we used to see on similar swaps on older vehicles with TH350 and TH400 transmissions and even the A4 cars (eg. I did 3.23, 3.42, 3.73 and 4.10 gears in my old 1998 LS1 Z28, so I thought I knew what to expect). BTW: I have now taken the yank converter out of my truck (since the clutch started squealing) and guess what, it still comes out of the hole hard and pulls like a bitch with the 4.10s.
The moral of the story (according to me) is what is relevant here: Thanks to its very low (4.07:1) 1st gear, the 6L80e doesn't need a lot of help to get the vehicle moving out of the hole, like a converter with lots of torque multiplication. IMV, some of the gains (in lowering ET) you will see with a converter change will come from the ~20lb. weight savings, not just torque multiplication. It also depends on how well you can hook the car in first, because putting a high stall converter (like a Yank SS4000) in a 6l80e 2wd (my truck is an AWD) vehicle with street tires will produce nothing more than lots of smoke (and fun). But, it does benefit to have a lower final drive ratio, because it has quite a gap in ratio between 1st and 2nd and it will certainly pull harder in every gear. However, unlike all of its predecessors, the A6 does have a lower than 1:1 4th gear, and 5th is an overdrive ratio, so one has to be mindful of that critical 4-5 shift point occurring on the big end of the quarter, and gear the vehicle accordingly.
In the end, I still think I'm going to get rid of the big, fat, tight a$$ stock converter, and since I'm going to have to pull the drivetrain to do that, well, hell, I might as well stick a Z06 or RPM diff in it with ~3.42 gearing at the same time.
If it can't hook for **** after that, the cam and/or the blower, well I guess I'll have a nice challenge on my hands...
I'll buy the 3200 yank and leave my diff as it is (2.56 gear) but my decision only leaves me with more questions… Do I need to change my oem camshaft if I install the 3200 converter? If I don’t change the oem camshaft will I feel an improvement? (I believe the oem cam is a 204/211). I can only buy online, so If I need a new camshaft I would like to know where can I get it (secure site, good brand/quality and nice price).
By the way, can you tell me the yank’s part number? I also need to know about the tuning after installing it (I have hptunners).
Thanks again.
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Good choice.Stock cammed/stock headed (aka: 'stock internals') LS2s (and LS3s of course) have gone VERY quick with just the external bolt ons. A properly chosen converter along with drag radials and some tuning/programming changes can REALLY wake an otherwise stock C6 LS2 up.
I have had some junk converters over the years, but not any of them were cheap or from a no name company. Last year, I destroyed the clutch in a supposed 1200 hp Yank PT3200 in 625 hp truck, and a couple of years ago I had a brand new PTC race converter that split in two before I even took my race car off the jack stands, because they had machined the casing too thin. The good thing us that they took real good care of me.
The point is that whilst it's all and good to stick with brands you know have a good reputation, every one of them builds a dud now and then. If Lingenfelter is willing to stake their reputation on these converters, I would think they can't be junk. That said, given the amount of work and the value of our cars, it just makes sense to buy a converter from a company that warranties their products. Yank offers a free re-stall in the first year and has a three year warranty. A 3200 would be a good choice for a street driven car with a stock cam, IMV.
Good choice.No, you don't need to swap out the stock cam in order to take advantage of the benefits of the new converter, but you might still choose to if simply seeking more power/greater track gains.
Stock cammed/stock headed (aka: 'stock internals') LS2s (and LS3s of course) have gone VERY quick with just the external bolt ons. A properly chosen converter along with drag radials and some tuning/programming changes can REALLY wake an otherwise stock C6 LS2 up.

But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.




But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.
But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.
If I were buying a new converter right now it would be either a Yank, an FTI or another Precision Industries Vigilante (what I'm currently using).
That's pretty badass.

















