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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CI GS
No, I get the core exchange thing. But, I don't know where I could get a Z06 diff for $1500? Do you mean a used one? I see Zip selling them new, but they're like $3,500, if memory serves. If it's possible to get a new Z06 diff for $1500 somewhere I would buy one tomorrow. I wouldn't buy a used one though. I have a friend who owns a totaled Z06 that burned down after the crash and about the only thing that's salvageable is the diff. But that car saw so much abuse I would bother to pull my diff out to install that one. Please LMK if there's some way that I can get a new Z06 diff without robbing a bank first.
They sell for $1500 used and they're pretty much bulletproof.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 01:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CI GS
Question is: if we change to the 3.42 gearing, will it make our cars smoke a lot like yours?? I don't know about the OP, but I think I could live with that...

So you are looking to have the issue that us with power are trying hard to eliminate.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 03:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Mostly.
The 2.56 gear will finish the 1/4 mi in 3rd and will be roughly .1 slower than the 3.42 that crosses the stripe near the end of 4th.
The downside of the 3.42 gear is the drop in MPG along with increased engine wear. The bigger concern is that the 3-4 shift is the weak part of the A6 and responsible for most of the WOT failures.

Even a mild 3200 stall converter will gain .2-.3 in the 1/4 mi at 1/2 the price of a gear change.
Excellent clarification! (as usual)
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
So you are looking to have the issue that us with power are trying hard to eliminate.
Yep, exactly! If it can't smoke the tires, it definitely needs more parts, in my book. My Vette is a dog out of the hole, IMV.
Then again, I've gotten used to launching a 1200 hp race car off the brake on spray, so my Vette feels pretty damn tame, compared to that...
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #25  
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I would sum it up by saying the 3.42 / converter question is not so simple. Guys like Chris, and myself who have actually done the 3.42s seem to like it.

As someone who has done it, I can tell you that before adding power it made my car drive much better in everyday driving.
As far as track times, it depends on many things. If you live where I do, which is the "LS2 power adders" list, it seems 3.42's are a good add. Many of the faster cars have them.
For over a year my car has been the fastest A6 car on that list and that is with 3.42s and a stock converter.
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #26  
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Yep. That would be my experience as well. Although I haven't changed the gears in my Vette as yet, I did go from 3.42 to 4.10 gearing in my Sierra Denali, which has basically the same drivetrain (6.2 & 6L80E) as an A6 LS3 Vette. In fact, when you run the calculation and factor in the difference in tire height between the Vette and the truck, that gear change equates almost exactly to a 2.73 to 3.42 gear swap in a Vette. The guys on performance trucks forum were, and still are, having the same debate - whether first gear would be useless, maybe go with a converter instead, etc.
Well, I went with both - converter (Yank PT3200) and then the gears. The converter was good for ~.20 secs in the 1/8 and the gears for only about ~.10. At first I was surprised. I thought that surely there should have been bigger gains, especially compared to what we used to see on similar swaps on older vehicles with TH350 and TH400 transmissions and even the A4 cars (eg. I did 3.23, 3.42, 3.73 and 4.10 gears in my old 1998 LS1 Z28, so I thought I knew what to expect). BTW: I have now taken the yank converter out of my truck (since the clutch started squealing) and guess what, it still comes out of the hole hard and pulls like a bitch with the 4.10s.
The moral of the story (according to me) is what is relevant here: Thanks to its very low (4.07:1) 1st gear, the 6L80e doesn't need a lot of help to get the vehicle moving out of the hole, like a converter with lots of torque multiplication. IMV, some of the gains (in lowering ET) you will see with a converter change will come from the ~20lb. weight savings, not just torque multiplication. It also depends on how well you can hook the car in first, because putting a high stall converter (like a Yank SS4000) in a 6l80e 2wd (my truck is an AWD) vehicle with street tires will produce nothing more than lots of smoke (and fun). But, it does benefit to have a lower final drive ratio, because it has quite a gap in ratio between 1st and 2nd and it will certainly pull harder in every gear. However, unlike all of its predecessors, the A6 does have a lower than 1:1 4th gear, and 5th is an overdrive ratio, so one has to be mindful of that critical 4-5 shift point occurring on the big end of the quarter, and gear the vehicle accordingly.
In the end, I still think I'm going to get rid of the big, fat, tight a$$ stock converter, and since I'm going to have to pull the drivetrain to do that, well, hell, I might as well stick a Z06 or RPM diff in it with ~3.42 gearing at the same time.
If it can't hook for **** after that, the cam and/or the blower, well I guess I'll have a nice challenge on my hands...
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:05 PM
  #27  
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I want to thank everyone for your help. I'm making a decision based on all your comments and posts. As I mentioned, you opened my eyes.
I'll buy the 3200 yank and leave my diff as it is (2.56 gear) but my decision only leaves me with more questions… Do I need to change my oem camshaft if I install the 3200 converter? If I don’t change the oem camshaft will I feel an improvement? (I believe the oem cam is a 204/211). I can only buy online, so If I need a new camshaft I would like to know where can I get it (secure site, good brand/quality and nice price).
By the way, can you tell me the yank’s part number? I also need to know about the tuning after installing it (I have hptunners).
Thanks again.
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:07 PM
  #28  
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if we can continue with the camshaft topic I would greatly appreciate it. These are my tires: http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...7332/overview/
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #29  
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they think of this option?
is more economical
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...2#.UwDwgPl5Muc
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Pontiacat
I want to thank everyone for your help. I'm making a decision based on all your comments and posts. As I mentioned, you opened my eyes.
I'll buy the 3200 yank and leave my diff as it is (2.56 gear)
Good choice.




Originally Posted by Pontiacat
Do I need to change my oem camshaft if I install the 3200 converter? If I don’t change the oem camshaft will I feel an improvement? (I believe the oem cam is a 204/211).
No, you don't need to swap out the stock cam in order to take advantage of the benefits of the new converter, but you might still choose to if simply seeking more power/greater track gains.
Stock cammed/stock headed (aka: 'stock internals') LS2s (and LS3s of course) have gone VERY quick with just the external bolt ons. A properly chosen converter along with drag radials and some tuning/programming changes can REALLY wake an otherwise stock C6 LS2 up.
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 09:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Pontiacat
they think of this option?
is more economical
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...2#.UwDwgPl5Muc
I posted a thread on here before asking about that very same converter. Most of the replies were along the lines of buy Yank or one of the other popular brands. The write up on that converter sounds good though, especially at that price point: new unit - not stock-rebuild, dual clutch, etc, and Lingenfelter is a reputable vendor, so maybe call them and see what they say. If you do, let us know by posting back on here what they say.
I have had some junk converters over the years, but not any of them were cheap or from a no name company. Last year, I destroyed the clutch in a supposed 1200 hp Yank PT3200 in 625 hp truck, and a couple of years ago I had a brand new PTC race converter that split in two before I even took my race car off the jack stands, because they had machined the casing too thin. The good thing us that they took real good care of me.
The point is that whilst it's all and good to stick with brands you know have a good reputation, every one of them builds a dud now and then. If Lingenfelter is willing to stake their reputation on these converters, I would think they can't be junk. That said, given the amount of work and the value of our cars, it just makes sense to buy a converter from a company that warranties their products. Yank offers a free re-stall in the first year and has a three year warranty. A 3200 would be a good choice for a street driven car with a stock cam, IMV.
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 07:38 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Good choice.




No, you don't need to swap out the stock cam in order to take advantage of the benefits of the new converter, but you might still choose to if simply seeking more power/greater track gains.
Stock cammed/stock headed (aka: 'stock internals') LS2s (and LS3s of course) have gone VERY quick with just the external bolt ons. A properly chosen converter along with drag radials and some tuning/programming changes can REALLY wake an otherwise stock C6 LS2 up.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #33  
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I call Lingenfelter and they told me they sell the torke converter since 2007.
But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Pontiacat
I call Lingenfelter and they told me they sell the torke converter since 2007.
But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.
Save yourself the hassle and just go with a Yank. Before long you too could be doing this with your car (from this Monday at Sonoma):

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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
Save yourself the hassle and just go with a Yank. Before long you too could be doing this with your car (from this Monday at Sonoma):

great shot
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Pontiacat
I call Lingenfelter and they told me they sell the torke converter since 2007.
But i can not find any review anywhere in internet.
They say the converters they have are for 650 a 700 HP.
The higher converter stall they have is 45% = 2,400 to 2,500 RPM
What do you think about this stall? and all this information.
That's the problem I have with it too - couldn't find a single soul who has run one. You don't want to be the Guinea pig for any product, especially one that involves that much work to install. Besides, that stall is a bit low, IMV. I agree with subfloor. Go with a Yank. Give them a call and tell them what you want and Dave will fix you up.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
Save yourself the hassle and just go with a Yank. Before long you too could be doing this with your car (from this Monday at Sonoma):

Wicked shot! Man, that b!tch is hooking! I'm jealous!
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 12:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
Save yourself the hassle and just go with a Yank.
If I were buying a new converter right now it would be either a Yank, an FTI or another Precision Industries Vigilante (what I'm currently using).




Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
That's pretty badass.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 03:11 PM
  #39  
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look what i found
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...e-or-yank.html
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #40  
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yank converters changed hands i dont know when, i had the vig 3800 and best 60 ft 1.41 then went cam best 60 ft 1.45 then did heads best 30 ft 1.45 all better et and mph but 60 ft was know difference then went with a yank 3800PA converter and no other changes went a 1.34 60 ft best same 3800 as the vig but 60 fts better street drives better et better mph better dont be scared of going bigger do 3800 or 4000, i would have went 4000 but they dont make that in the PA series, stanger383 had the yank 4000 and did 1.32 60 ft
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