Anybody experienced this?

I've seen a few clutch return kits out there.. I have a 2010 though and haven't experienced it (apparently clutch sticks down and doesn't return fully when depressed under high rpm loads).

Got a couple questions:
1) Has this been corrected on more recent models?
2) Does changing the clutch out for another fix it (I've been talking to the cats at Monster anyhow, so just curious)?
3) Does anyone have one of the return kits and how do you like it? Does the spring get in the way or make any noticeable impact on clutch depression feeling?

 

I installed a Tick Master to fix it.

 

Tick Master what? Tick Master do full on transmission rebuilds in addition to selling parts- that's not very specific.

 

Here ya go.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c6-z06/

 

Aha, got it. Thanks for the link brother!

 

First, understand the problem, then you can decide on the fix.

The clutch fluid line has 3 restrictors in the line. There is one at the master cylinder end piece, another at the coupler fitting for the two lines, then a third at the end of the lower line to the slave cylinder. Gm installed these to prevent clutch dumping that would destroy the drive line.

So when the fluid gets contaminated from clutch dust and rubber, the fluid can not travel back fast enough back through the line. Even worse, since it a PITA to get to the bleed valve of the slave cylinder, the fluid in the lower line/ slave cylinder is often thick as oatmeal from contaminates that are trying to be forced back up the line when the clutch pedal is released.


The second problem is the clutch design itself, and under high spin, it just does not want to move back into engagement as fast/hard as when it not spinning at mach 2 (Centrifugal force). Thrown in the thick contaminated fluid and restrictors in line, and you now see how you get the pedal to the floor stick problem.

So on the tick master cylinder, yes it does outer flow more fluid per stroke than a stock master cylinder, and it's adjustable to give the clutch more over stroke on disengagement. But this does nothing to solve the pedal stuck to the floor problem. It just allows for more fluid to be directionally pushed out alone.



So the key part of the tick system and solving the pedal stuck to the floor problem, is the Tick upper fluid line does away with 2 of the restrictors of the line to allow faster return flow. If you go with the solid line that does not have the center coupler (have to pull the drive line to remove the lower hose off the slave cylinder), then there is no restrictors at all in the line, which is what most racers do to solve the pedal floor stick problems.

The reason that I bring this up, if your master cylinder is working fine, then you can pull it/ the upper line and drill out the two restrictions on the upper line to solve the problem that same way that tick does, (as well as bleeding the system from the slave cylinder bleed valve to get all the contaminated fluid out of the lower end of the system), or pull the line off the slave cylinder as well and drill out the third restrictor (what the solid line from the master to slave of the tick line does that most racer go with instead).

 

Good Info Dano!The bleeder line is a real win. You can remove nasty looking fluid without a great deal of work. I am sold on the Tick system, it makes everything much simpler.

 

Yea I appreciate the info definitely. I recall reading that being the issue, and I'm trying to avoid having to drill the lines.

Frankly, I think this will be a great combination with my future clutch upgrade and transmission rebuild. Like I said, I've never actually experience this issue personally, but it is best to know what causes it and be able to put a preventive fix in when I eventually rebuild my tranny anyways.

Thanks to both of you definitely- for the part, and for the great info on the cause and what makes it happen!

 

I use mine with a CenterForce Dyad twin disk clutch.