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I have done some research on installing exhaust on these cars, but would like to find as much information as possible before switching out my stock manifolds. Does anyone have any tips or extra advice on this topic?
Id like to find the easiest way of getting the original stuff out, and possibly avoiding removing the alternator.
Also If anyone has tips on getting a broken bolt out of the head it would be most appreciated (the original pass side manifold looks to have warped and popped the head off one of the bolts - my plan is to use a lot of penetrant and a couple of m8x1.25 jam nuts to try to get the bolt out).
As always, thank you!
EDIT: This will done done on an 07 ls2, using ramps - no lift available
Last edited by el es tu; Mar 20, 2014 at 09:08 AM.
^ what he said. Might be recommended to remove spark plugs so you don't hit them with the manifold. Depending on what brand you are upgrading to, you might have to remove starter to install new. Also might have to tweak transmission lines on passenger side if you have auto.
as far as that bolt go ahead and start treating it with pb blaster and go through a few heat cycles so the penetrant has an opportunity to work in advance to the install.
Yep I spent half of last week finding all the parts - gaskets, bolts, exhaust reducers, and band clamps. Id like to keep the original copper donut gaskets on the cat sections - do folks here typically hit these with some copper gasket forming spray? It seems like this would be prudent just to help promote a good seal...
Im planning on adapting the 3" H pipe to the back half of the 2.5" one. The most tedious part will be cutting up everything without a band saw. Looking forward to learning how to use that chain pipe cutter thing...
Take the old 2.5" H mid pipe and the new 3.0" X mid pipe into a muffler shop and have them cut the 3.0" pipe behind the rear twin spring mounts (about 3 inches back) and fabricate a section to match up with your 2.5 rear section. With a grinder you can remove all the OEM clamps and use them on the new sections. It cost me $75 to have them made and they bolted right up.
I would definitely pull the spark plugs just to be safe, so you don't break one off. You may also get a little more wiggle room on the driver's side by unbolting the steering shaft (1 bolt). Drop the mid pipe first as well. Looks like you've got some good suggestions on the header bolt. Good Luck! Let us know how it turns out!
Is this car an auto? If so expect it to be tight between the trans and frame where the exhaust passes through. Make sure the exhaust shop moves the exhaust around on the car to check for banging or frame contact. Also I always remove plugs and coil packs when doing any exhaust work for better access.
Got the new manifolds and cats in. Pass side secondary O2 was zip tied to a larger wiring harness in a way that it had to be cut and replaced rather than risk cutting into the main harness. Didnt need to remove alternator or plugs. Oil tube was a pain to deal with. Should have a chance to finish everything up this weekend.
Not being able to leave good enough alone, I decided to do the mufflers as well. I chose to use Thrush welded (same as the flowmaster 40 design) because they looked good were readily available and less than 40 bucks apiece. Tips are spectre 4". This should give me enough space to mount a diffuser nice and tight to the chassis now.