PROBLEM SOLVED -- see below

Had some spare time yesterday. Turned this:



into this:



Front and rear. Anyway, I did so merely by removing the wheels, prying the calipers slightly apart, and using some paint remover on the backs of the outer pads to get rid of the paint on them. I used heavy-duty files to get the paint off the letters. I never removed the pads or loosened the bolts attaching the calipers. None of the paint remover got anywhere near the pistons or brake lines.

So here's the thing. After I was done, I started the car, pumped the brakes a couple times to "reset" the calipers, and then then tried to drive off. The brake pedal felt low, but I thought maybe a bit more pumping with the car running would get things back to normal.

No.

Within a few hundred feet, the brake pedal stuck pretty low, brakes totally locked/frozen, and I could not get the car moving again. No warning lights, no DIC messages. Got the car flat-bedded to the nearest mechanic (eventually the brakes loosened enough so we could winch the car up onto the bed) where it sits this morning.

Any thoughts about whet this might be? I've never experienced this in 45 years of driving. The guy is a good local mechanic but no Vette expert. A little extra knowledge on my part will be helpful (I am no mechanic)...

Thanks...

 

Any ideas? I expect to hear from my mechanic early tomorrow and any thoughts would be most appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Just a wild guess. Did you put the pads back in exactly where they were? Sounds like either a caliper piston is seized or one of the pads are jammed. Difficult to do with a Corvette but I've seen it done on a Beretta. Pads were in backwards (inboard pad and outboard pad reversed) and the backing plate jammed in the caliper.

 

My guess is one of the pads was not replaced correctly. It probably is wedged between the rotor and caliper. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

he said he never removed the pads.

my bet, dirt, paint residue, etc keeps the pads from moving freely within the calipers jamming/wedging them.

remove the pads, clean the pads metal base all around!
clean the caliper inside area where the pads go.
put brake pad anti squeal/anti seize where the pads metal base touches the caliper (top/bottom, left right or whatever you wanna call it) + the back where it touches the pistons.
OBVIOUSLY NOT WHERE THE ACTUAL BRAKE COMPOUND IS

probably just fine from there.

 

Thanks guys -- I will share advice with mechanic. He's a good guy and will appreciate knowledgable input.

 

How did you pry the calipers apart? It would be difficult to do but a piston could have been messed up while compressing them.

Whats your fluid level look like in the reservoir? Are there any fluid leaks around the car or more specifically any weeping on or around the calipers?


good luck!

 

I used the 2 screwdriver method, and not very much force. This morning, the mechanic loosened master cylinder and brakes freed up. He also bled the system. But when he tightened it all back up, brake pedal goes down 1/2" and brakes locked again. His research suggests bad master cylinder or some "brake position (switch) sensor." But, no DIC message so I am not comfortable that it is electronic.

Other thoughts?

Thanks.

 

Turns out the problem was caused by a plastic panel way up under the dashboard that somehow had gotten loose and jammed the brake pedal down. As this was not enough of a coincidence, the fact that I am currently a bit immobile recovering from a knee replacement, and that it happened at night, likely conspired to keep me me from discovering this myself. I had poked around a bit with my feet, but the panel must be way back there because I never felt it!

Good outcome -- no damage to the brakes or the system, and not too expensive -- just a few hours diagnostic labor (can't blame the mechanic that it took him a while to find this -- at least he did not throw a bunch of parts at it!) The fix itself was maybe 5 minutes

 

Good news.