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Clutch help

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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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C Jourdan's Avatar
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Default Clutch help

Do i need to replace the fly wheel when replacing the clutch ? The car only has 29k mi. And the sqeek i get from the clutch sounds like a bearing to me.... Please help
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by C Jourdan
Do i need to replace the fly wheel when replacing the clutch ? The car only has 29k mi. And the sqeek i get from the clutch sounds like a bearing to me.... Please help
Since you are into the $1k labor charge alone to replace a clutch, best to check and replace all the worn parts while they are in there, including the drive line/bearing while it out as well. If you have a drive line bearing or couple that is questionable, it a few hundred dollar fix now, verses another $1K to drop it latter.

As for the flywheel, all depends on the condition of it once it pulled (it get pulled to replace the crank seal behind it on a clutch replacement). You can get a new LUK flywheel for $60 if it's toasted (LUK Part # LFW191), or if the flywheel just needs to be cleaned up, could be even cheaper.


As for bearing noise, I would first start off by making sure that the clutch fluid is clean and free of any contaminants. What you think is something going south, may in fact just be that the fluid is contaminated, and the slave cylinder not fully releasing the clutch instead.

As for changing the clutch fluid, there is a ranger method with a lot of peddle pumping, or you could have the system power bleed instead.

Also, if the problem is dust on the shaft that is binding up the throw out bearing to cause the noise, the built up clutch dust in the bell housing can be cleaned by just pulling the starter to clean out all the dust out that way (through the starter channel and the air vent passages).

Either way, your in the $2K range to have a clutch replaced (with all the other parts that you change out at the same time once you get that deep), so before you go that far, see if changing the clutch fluid, and even blowing out the dust in the bell housing solves the problem first (just time on your part to do these).
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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dano523
since you are into the $1k labor charge alone to replace a clutch, best to check and replace all the worn parts while they are in there, including the drive line/bearing while it out as well. If you have a drive line bearing or couple that is questionable, it a few hundred dollar fix now, verses another $1k to drop it latter.

As for the flywheel, all depends on the condition of it once it pulled (it get pulled to replace the crank seal behind it on a clutch replacement). You can get a new luk flywheel for $60 if it's toasted (luk part # lfw191), or if the flywheel just needs to be cleaned up, could be even cheaper.


As for bearing noise, i would first start off by making sure that the clutch fluid is clean and free of any contaminants. What you think is something going south, may in fact just be that the fluid is contaminated, and the slave cylinder not fully releasing the clutch instead.

As for changing the clutch fluid, there is a ranger method with a lot of peddle pumping, or you could have the system power bleed instead.

Also, if the problem is dust on the shaft that is binding up the throw out bearing to cause the noise, the built up clutch dust in the bell housing can be cleaned by just pulling the starter to clean out all the dust out that way (through the starter channel and the air vent passages).

Either way, your in the $2k range to have a clutch replaced (with all the other parts that you change out at the same time once you get that deep), so before you go that far, see if changing the clutch fluid, and even blowing out the dust in the bell housing solves the problem first (just time on your part to do these).
will see if the cleaning helps
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