Harmonic balancer question/warning
) Anyway, the mechanic told me my harmonic balancer needed repair. This is what was written on my service receipt…FOUND HARMONIC BALANCER PULLEY HAS SEPARATED FROM BALANCER ASSEMBLY. PULLEY WOBBLING CLOSE TO CONTACTING STEERING RACK. REPLACED HARMONIC BALANCER ASSEMBLY.Now i'm no expert on this by any means, but this made my butt pucker a little. If I'm correct, if this pulley came off it would have been catastrophic to my engine and/or car, right?
What would cause this to come loose?
Is this something that is common with a car with the mileage I have?
With the high speed driving I do and LOTS of highway trips, I feel a little paranoid now. Not really looking forward to a piston flying out of my hood, into my windshield, then whacking me in the face!
Oh and one more thing…I didn't notice ANYTHING different about my car in regards to timing being off or strange noises etc. Which makes me even more worried…it's like a silent killer :-0
Last edited by SemperCoasty; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:39 PM.
Last edited by GMJim; Apr 28, 2014 at 09:35 PM.

I had these two items installed and never had a problem since. http://store.katechengines.com/bille...sioner-p2.aspx & http://store.katechengines.com/dampers-c41.aspx
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Bill

I had these two items installed and never had a problem since. http://store.katechengines.com/bille...sioner-p2.aspx & http://store.katechengines.com/dampers-c41.aspx

Damper runout can induced by the loose fitting of the OEM tensioner, as well as other pulley having runouts, on any system controlled with an one serpentine belt.
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Interesting to note members often recommend treating the damper runout casually.
From the moment it started, long before a casual owner notice - runouts has an adverse effect on crank and components connected to it. Purpose of the damper's being is to control harmonics - think where the crank harmonics go and what it does when it is no longer controlled.
The moment runout is noticed, never mind how long it was in that condition. Engine should be shut down to prevent further damage. Think even after repair, damages already done to the bearings/seals connected to the crank and the engine is never to be the same! Having the damper changed out and the engine still runs afterward doesn't mean the engine is still healthy! Those who changed with another OEM only further damaging their engine's internals.
Having a background in dealing with precision and knowing the shortcoming of the OEM damper, was reason for me to proactively change out to an stock diameter ATI before the OEM unit failed. As well as afterward, addition of the Katech tensioner, eliminating the OEM tensioner's induced runout, to further enhance the Serpentine belt system.

Side note: Back in '95, I installed a Fluiddamper on my '94 Astro Van - that also came with an same design damper on its iron block V6!











