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From what I gather they are both good. I went with Circle D because Chris was the most helpful and took the time to explain things the best.
I am very happy with that decision and have had no problems with the product.
When trying to choose between products, speaking with the companies involved usually goes far in helping me make my decision.
I thought you were looking for a comparison, which meant someone who has used both.
The pros and cons of a TC are easy to find. Opinions relating to brands will be biased toward the brand an individual purchased.
Maybe stating your use and expectations would be a better starting point.
The main purpose of use will be at the drag strip of course. I'm hoping to pick up at least .3 or .4 by throwing in a 3600 stall instead of the stock torque converter.
The thread was more meant to see which is more popular between the two brands, who's using what, and why they went that route.
I can't offer a comparison between the two, but I can pass on my personal experience with the Yank converters.
I have a Yank PAS3400, which is what they call the "Power-Adder Series". This is what Dave at Yank recommended since I have a supercharger on the car.
My order was delayed a few days because apparently he overlooked or misplaced my order. It was only after I called and asked for a tracking number that the oversight was found. It shipped the next business day, and arrived within a few days after that.
I did the install myself. Not too bad. Took it apart one night, and back together the next night. One more night of fluid/filter changes, getting exhaust back on, cooler install, etc.
The results were pretty impressive. My 60' times improved by .4 right out of the box. Went from a best of 1.87 to 1.47. It also cut .3 to .4 off my 1/8 mile times.
Now, you WILL NEED to install a trans cooler with the converter. I did a B&M plate cooler mounted up front. The trans will run hotter with a big stall. Also, you WILL notice that the car takes much more throttle to get moving from a stop. And, you may need to re-program your shift points because the car will be up in RPM's much quicker than the stock stall.
You will forget about those three negatives really quickly when you launch at 2500 RPM+ and fell the difference in how hard the car leaves. It's night and day from the stock converter. Get thee some drag radials if you don't already have some. Street tires won't hook with a big stall.
I can't offer a comparison between the two, but I can pass on my personal experience with the Yank converters.
I have a Yank PAS3400, which is what they call the "Power-Adder Series". This is what Dave at Yank recommended since I have a supercharger on the car.
My order was delayed a few days because apparently he overlooked or misplaced my order. It was only after I called and asked for a tracking number that the oversight was found. It shipped the next business day, and arrived within a few days after that.
I did the install myself. Not too bad. Took it apart one night, and back together the next night. One more night of fluid/filter changes, getting exhaust back on, cooler install, etc.
The results were pretty impressive. My 60' times improved by .4 right out of the box. Went from a best of 1.87 to 1.47. It also cut .3 to .4 off my 1/8 mile times.
Now, you WILL NEED to install a trans cooler with the converter. I did a B&M plate cooler mounted up front. The trans will run hotter with a big stall. Also, you WILL notice that the car takes much more throttle to get moving from a stop. And, you may need to re-program your shift points because the car will be up in RPM's much quicker than the stock stall.
You will forget about those three negatives really quickly when you launch at 2500 RPM+ and fell the difference in how hard the car leaves. It's night and day from the stock converter. Get thee some drag radials if you don't already have some. Street tires won't hook with a big stall.
I'd do it again in a second.
Stacey
Thanks for the input. I've got a set of MT 275/40/17s and I can't break them loose right now if I tried.
Might this be the trans cooler you were talking about?
I just got a converter from circleD. With their converter you will not need a cooler if you have a z51. While you are changing converter change out trans fluid and filter. Your trans temps will lower alot!
I just got a converter from circleD. With their converter you will not need a cooler if you have a z51. While you are changing converter change out trans fluid and filter. Your trans temps will lower alot!
really..why is this? I have a z51 with stock stall and I'm seeing trans temps hover ~204 while cruising.
That's similar to what I have. I got mine from Amazon, and while it looks the same, mine came with several brass fittings, clamps, etc. to fit various radiator outlet sizes. It's probably the same thing, just less goodies in the box. Seems like mine was a few $ more. Not much more, but maybe $60-65. It had everything I needed to do the install, though.
My trans runs plenty cool while driving on the hwy, but head up a mountain, or make a bunch of passes at the strip, and it will get up to about 200. It seems like my coolant temp is a bit higher also for some reason. Maybe just the weather warming up, but I noticed about a 10-15* increase in coolant temp immediately after the converter install.
It runs that hot because the cooler is in the radiator which is running 200+
yes..i gather that much. my question is what's different with silverls2's set up? he stated he's running a stall converter but I don't see where he running a standalone or an additional cooler in series. his comments leads one to believe he's running the stock z51 set up with an aftermarket stall.
I got a yank 3600 in my 6L80 with 3.42 gears out back and it makes for a nice combo. I never tried a circle d so I can't compare. Best 60' is a couple of 1.48s but the average is low 1.5s. My car has just about every bolt on (stock heads and cam, no power adders), makes 400RWHP and runs high 10s in nice weather.
I got a yank 3600 in my 6L80 with 3.42 gears out back and it makes for a nice combo. I never tried a circle d so I can't compare. Best 60' is a couple of 1.48s but the average is low 1.5s. My car has just about every bolt on (stock heads and cam, no power adders), makes 400RWHP and runs high 10s in nice weather.
Wow! So upgrading to a 3600 and swapping rear gears from 2.73 to 3.42's will net me into the high 10s/low 11s! That's insane! When you say all bolt ons, what are you considering other than headers/exhaust/CAI?