Blown Engine - Replacement Options
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
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From: McMinnville TN
Blown Engine - Replacement Options
In a thread from last week, I described the details where I found that I had broken a piston in my 2006 LS2 Vette.
I'm weighing options for the rebuild/replacement of the engine, and I want to get this process started as soon as I can.
I have some questions about what my options are as far as a replacement engine if I decide to go that way. The engine needs to be a forged setup, as I do have a blower, and drag race my car weekly.
Is going with an iron block an option? I'm not that concerned with the weight difference, I just want a strong, durable engine that can handle being drag raced weekly with a blower. I see LQ4's, but will that work in my car? What models will work in the vette?
Goals: Forged rotating assy, strong and durable, hold up to moderate boost, easy replacement without a lot of ECM swapping, etc to work, and at least exceed my current HP/TQ of 551/506.
I thank you in advance for your help. I'll have plenty more questions as this progresses, but without knowing my options, it's hard to start narrowing down my choice.
Stacey
I'm weighing options for the rebuild/replacement of the engine, and I want to get this process started as soon as I can.
I have some questions about what my options are as far as a replacement engine if I decide to go that way. The engine needs to be a forged setup, as I do have a blower, and drag race my car weekly.
Is going with an iron block an option? I'm not that concerned with the weight difference, I just want a strong, durable engine that can handle being drag raced weekly with a blower. I see LQ4's, but will that work in my car? What models will work in the vette?
Goals: Forged rotating assy, strong and durable, hold up to moderate boost, easy replacement without a lot of ECM swapping, etc to work, and at least exceed my current HP/TQ of 551/506.
I thank you in advance for your help. I'll have plenty more questions as this progresses, but without knowing my options, it's hard to start narrowing down my choice.
Stacey
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 190
From: Austin TX
If you drag weekly, why not go ahead and get a 402 set up or a 427? I am not sure about the LQ4 option however. The LS2(7) blocks seem to hold up pretty well with a blower without having to go iron block. I don't speak from experience but I have had a few years to read a lot of great info on the forums.
Not sure what your budget is but use good quality parts for the lower. I can say that if my 05 ever blew the motor, then I would go with either a 402 or 427 and enjoy the ride. Im sure that plenty of others will chime in on this so their advice will be appreciated.
Not sure what your budget is but use good quality parts for the lower. I can say that if my 05 ever blew the motor, then I would go with either a 402 or 427 and enjoy the ride. Im sure that plenty of others will chime in on this so their advice will be appreciated.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 257
From: Shawnee, OK
My LS3 was the victim of an oil over-fill and a connecting rod made its way through the block. Replaced it with an LS7 and couldn't be more ecstatic ! Forged internals, but pricey.
An LS3 crate motor is a bargain and they hold up very well to blowers. You can't go wrong with an LS3 for value performance.
If you want something really serious, call Hinson. You can get a forged LS3 stroker from these guys that will knock your socks off.
An LS3 crate motor is a bargain and they hold up very well to blowers. You can't go wrong with an LS3 for value performance.
If you want something really serious, call Hinson. You can get a forged LS3 stroker from these guys that will knock your socks off.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
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From: McMinnville TN
Not opposed to an LS3 or LS7 upgrade, or even more. But, will the LS3 or 7 require a bunch of ECU, sensor, wiring changes that might be beyond what I can accomplish in my shop? I will be doing the swap myself. Of course, I will have it re-tuned after the install, but I at least need it to run enough to get it on the trailer and get it to Vengeance. They did the original tune after the blower.
The reason I was asking about the iron block is they seem to be a bit less expensive than aluminum blocks, and are probably stronger. Strength is my main concern since I'll be blowing the engine and drag racing it regularly.
Thanks,
Stacey
The reason I was asking about the iron block is they seem to be a bit less expensive than aluminum blocks, and are probably stronger. Strength is my main concern since I'll be blowing the engine and drag racing it regularly.
Thanks,
Stacey
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,893
Likes: 107
From: God's Country, ID
Here's a good price on a complete forged short block that's good up to 900hp (1100hp with ARP stud upgrade). Thompson has a good reputation and great customer service.
http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...36rugrim21ria0
Livernoise is always a good choice as well:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...eatured&page=1
If your block is still useable you can always sell it and recoup some of the cost.
http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...36rugrim21ria0
Livernoise is always a good choice as well:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...eatured&page=1
If your block is still useable you can always sell it and recoup some of the cost.
Last edited by DSOMC6; May 25, 2014 at 01:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
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From: McMinnville TN
I've been pulling some more stuff off today.
I'm telling you....this block doesn't look hurt at all. Cylinder walls look good. No cracks or scratches. No ridge at top of cylinder. Lifters look good. Cam looks good. Etc.
I'm going to talk to my mechanic friend today. He's coming by to give it a look. I'm leaning toward having this block cleaned up, new bearings, etc. a new rotating assy, cam kit, and just building it back.
I'm willing to do whatever is necessary to get it back going again, but if I can get away without spending $10K on a new motor (in an 8 year old car), I don't want to.
I'm telling you....this block doesn't look hurt at all. Cylinder walls look good. No cracks or scratches. No ridge at top of cylinder. Lifters look good. Cam looks good. Etc.
I'm going to talk to my mechanic friend today. He's coming by to give it a look. I'm leaning toward having this block cleaned up, new bearings, etc. a new rotating assy, cam kit, and just building it back.
I'm willing to do whatever is necessary to get it back going again, but if I can get away without spending $10K on a new motor (in an 8 year old car), I don't want to.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville TN
Here's a good price on a complete forged short block that's good up to 900hp (1100hp with ARP stud upgrade). Thompson has a good reputation and great customer service.
http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...36rugrim21ria0
Livernoise is always a good choice as well:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...eatured&page=1
If your block is still useable you can always sell it and recoup some of the cost.
http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...36rugrim21ria0
Livernoise is always a good choice as well:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...eatured&page=1
If your block is still useable you can always sell it and recoup some of the cost.
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Not opposed to an LS3 or LS7 upgrade, or even more. But, will the LS3 or 7 require a bunch of ECU, sensor, wiring changes that might be beyond what I can accomplish in my shop? I will be doing the swap myself. Of course, I will have it re-tuned after the install, but I at least need it to run enough to get it on the trailer and get it to Vengeance. They did the original tune after the blower.
Thanks,
Stacey
Thanks,
Stacey
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 171
From: Missouri
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
I loved my LSx 427 built motor. I would recommend it if you're looking to make big power and remain reliable. I also got nearly 100,000 miles out of it when I sold it, and it was still running strong. The buyer drove it home, no issues other than a jump since the car was garaged for a few years.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,042
Likes: 24
From: NJ
I wouldn't go ls7 for boost... Stick with the ls2 or 3... Check out others builds there a few right now on stock blocks that they will be pushing! You said you made 550 wheel I mean I made 700 on stock ls3 you don't need to build something ridiculously expensive to make realizable power, get a new block and some good internals... Port the stock heads if you want, add a blower cam and as far as a long block besides some odds and ends that's it!
Last edited by 1MEANGS; May 26, 2014 at 08:27 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 190
From: Austin TX
I've been pulling some more stuff off today.
I'm telling you....this block doesn't look hurt at all. Cylinder walls look good. No cracks or scratches. No ridge at top of cylinder. Lifters look good. Cam looks good. Etc.
I'm going to talk to my mechanic friend today. He's coming by to give it a look. I'm leaning toward having this block cleaned up, new bearings, etc. a new rotating assy, cam kit, and just building it back.
I'm willing to do whatever is necessary to get it back going again, but if I can get away without spending $10K on a new motor (in an 8 year old car), I don't want to.
I'm telling you....this block doesn't look hurt at all. Cylinder walls look good. No cracks or scratches. No ridge at top of cylinder. Lifters look good. Cam looks good. Etc.
I'm going to talk to my mechanic friend today. He's coming by to give it a look. I'm leaning toward having this block cleaned up, new bearings, etc. a new rotating assy, cam kit, and just building it back.
I'm willing to do whatever is necessary to get it back going again, but if I can get away without spending $10K on a new motor (in an 8 year old car), I don't want to.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville TN
Well, I have no choice but to repair it, but if after adding up all the costs, and I'm close to $10k to fix a broken piston, I'll order the LS427 complete long block fully assembled from Summit and be done.
$8999 complete and assembled from intake to (but not including) oil pan. 30 month, 50,000 mile warranty. I'll use what I need off my engine, and sell the rest.
There's just no way it should cost$10K to fix a broken piston, but unfortunately it looks like this ain't gonna be a cheap fix!
$8999 complete and assembled from intake to (but not including) oil pan. 30 month, 50,000 mile warranty. I'll use what I need off my engine, and sell the rest.
There's just no way it should cost$10K to fix a broken piston, but unfortunately it looks like this ain't gonna be a cheap fix!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,042
Likes: 24
From: NJ
Well, I have no choice but to repair it, but if after adding up all the costs, and I'm close to $10k to fix a broken piston, I'll order the LS427 complete long block fully assembled from Summit and be done.
$8999 complete and assembled from intake to (but not including) oil pan. 30 month, 50,000 mile warranty. I'll use what I need off my engine, and sell the rest.
There's just no way it should cost$10K to fix a broken piston, but unfortunately it looks like this ain't gonna be a cheap fix!
$8999 complete and assembled from intake to (but not including) oil pan. 30 month, 50,000 mile warranty. I'll use what I need off my engine, and sell the rest.
There's just no way it should cost$10K to fix a broken piston, but unfortunately it looks like this ain't gonna be a cheap fix!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville TN
That was just an off-the-cuff remark.
I'm still up in the air about what to do. I see a forged LS2 short block in the for sale section here. Comes with a cam. Doesn't seem like a bad deal, but the cam probably isn't the right choice for a blower.
I'm still up in the air about what to do. I see a forged LS2 short block in the for sale section here. Comes with a cam. Doesn't seem like a bad deal, but the cam probably isn't the right choice for a blower.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,475
Likes: 332
From: Port Arthur, Texas 77642
The more cubes you build the bigger the blower you will need to feed it. Then you will need a larger fuel system to feed the larger displacement. Going big means a BIG $$$$ commitment up front otherwise you'll end up disappointed and/or broke. If you go forced induction stay with your stock cube LS2 and it will cost less money to make horsepower. You won't need a forged crank to meet your goals, look at some of the LOW E.T cars that ECS puts together on stock cubes with factory cranks. Call ECS for the best advice on achieving low et's in forced induction applications. Good Luck With Your Repairs.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 190
From: Austin TX
I think the best thing to do is to stick with the LS2, rebuild the motor with forged internals and mod from there. If you drag a lot, you'll be good. If you are looking for world records, etc., you will need to move to a different set up. There are plenty of people on here that have made good horsepower numbers and have dragged regularly on LS2 motors. Just remember, either way you go, you will still spend $$ to get good numbers.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 4
From: Montgomery Texas
I have replaced several engines in my Vett and the best option hands down is ERL Performance! $5500 for a block with longer sleeves, forged parts and they give you & 1000 for your old block. You can get the ERL short block built all the way to 454 CI and it has a true 4" sleave to support the stroke. when the engine arrives you install the cam of your choice and put your old top end on it. The short block has a warranty and complete build sheet, you can also get it in low compression if you plan on force induction.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville TN
Thanks Crowhater. I'll give ERL a call tomorrow. So far, I've talked to 5 different shops and got some numbers on a build. I've called:
Vengeance
Thompson
Texas Speed
Hinson
and my local shop (have numbers tomorrow morning)
Looks like I'll be either a 402 or 418 forged, cam, etc. This is turning into more of an ordeal than I had hoped, but it sure should be a hoot once it's done!
I'm making a decision by this weekend on who I'm going with, and get this thing started. I hate to be down this long, but it will be worth it in the end (I hope).
Vengeance
Thompson
Texas Speed
Hinson
and my local shop (have numbers tomorrow morning)
Looks like I'll be either a 402 or 418 forged, cam, etc. This is turning into more of an ordeal than I had hoped, but it sure should be a hoot once it's done!
I'm making a decision by this weekend on who I'm going with, and get this thing started. I hate to be down this long, but it will be worth it in the end (I hope).
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 4
From: Montgomery Texas
Thanks Crowhater. I'll give ERL a call tomorrow. So far, I've talked to 5 different shops and got some numbers on a build. I've called:
Vengeance
Thompson
Texas Speed
Hinson
and my local shop (have numbers tomorrow morning)
Looks like I'll be either a 402 or 418 forged, cam, etc. This is turning into more of an ordeal than I had hoped, but it sure should be a hoot once it's done!
I'm making a decision by this weekend on who I'm going with, and get this thing started. I hate to be down this long, but it will be worth it in the end (I hope).
Vengeance
Thompson
Texas Speed
Hinson
and my local shop (have numbers tomorrow morning)
Looks like I'll be either a 402 or 418 forged, cam, etc. This is turning into more of an ordeal than I had hoped, but it sure should be a hoot once it's done!
I'm making a decision by this weekend on who I'm going with, and get this thing started. I hate to be down this long, but it will be worth it in the end (I hope).
I got in touch with Patric Gurrea ( pat G ) on the forum. I paid his company $25.00 and filled out four pages of specs on my car, he ran his computer simulations and it picked out the perfect cam grind for my car. Once I had the cam I put the top of the engine together and had PatG write my tune. My car works flawless! I had two other top name shops work on my car and I lost engines and transmission. I went through 4 transmissions! Now the car runs great, no cam bucking, the Trans shifts like a factory car and I get good fuel mileage.
This is how it will arrive.
It can be done at home and you can take the engine out through the top.
Last edited by Crowhater; May 29, 2014 at 10:03 PM.