I was out for a drive tonight and all of a sudden my clutch pedal began to feel spongy so I immediately brought it home. As I was depressing the clutch pedal I could see the reservoir bubbling obviously there was air in the line somewhere. so the question is where is the bleeder valve? if its not easily accessible how else could I get air out of the system? thank you in advance.

 

Ttt

 

if you leave the pedal pressed in for 24hours some how the air bubble will disappear, I assume it will work as we do that on our race bike with out clutch and brake levers we zip tie it as if you were holding the clutch in and brake in and 24 hours later they felt perfectly nice.

 

The system is self air bleeding, being that the fluid line comes out of the top of the slave cylinder, climbs up to the master cylinder, then up to the reserve tank.

If there is air being introduce into the system, then it coming in from the either the slave or master cylinder, or from the line quick connector between the slave and master cylinder.

To get to the master master and connector, it behind the wheel well back plastic wheel cover on the drivers front side tire.

To get to the slave cylinder bleeder, its on top of the bell housing to torque tube seam where they come together.

To get to the slave cylinder, you have to pull the drive line (torque tube, which means everything behind the torque tube has to come off first so you can pull the torque tube last).

So on that note, might want to do a Ranger method fluid change for starters, keep an eye on the fluid level in the reserve tanks as you are changing the fluids out for a few drives to get the fluid clean, and if you find that the fluid is dropping down a great deal, then it time to start digging deep in your pockets for cash for parts replacements since one of these three part is leaking/causing the introduction of air back into the system.

 

The Ranger clutch site and video:

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

 

Thank you for all if the input guys! I tried the ranger method and it almost looked as if there was condensation in the fluid. I looked at the cap for the reservoir and the seal was tattered so I quick replaced it and repeated the ranger method until the fluid was clear, all is well now thank you again.

 

With the ranger method, you will want to change the clutch fluid out in the reserve tank about every fueling for about 6 fueling's to start with to try to get the over all fuid in the system clean (can go a bit longer after that as maintenance to keep the fluid clean), so keep an eye on the level amounts when you suck the fluid out, wipe the reserve tank, and refill it with fresh fluid each change.

If after a tank of fuel the fluid level has dropped way down from the fill full mark that you have filled the fluid before, then the system is leaking somewhere, and that needs to be resolved.

With luck, it will only be a the coupling that not be connected correctly, but since you stated that the fluid was badly contaminated, then bank that the problem is one of the cylinders scuffed from the brake dust contamination, and needed to be replace instead.

The slave cylinder has metal walls, while the master is plastic walled instead, so normally its the master that will give up the ghost first, but with heavy condensation in the fluid, bank that it's the slave cylinder the problem instead.

 

I'll be changing that if the problem persists thank you!

 

AFAIK the system is not self bleeding. I had air trapped in my line and I definitely had to bleed it with the bleeder to get the air out.

 

where exactly is the bleeder?

 

11 o' clock position between the torque tube and bellhousing. You have to drop the drivers side exhaust and squeeeeeeeze your hand in there. Short 9mm wrench. Have a friend pump and hold the clutch pedal while you bleed.

 

thanks!

 

Power bleed the system!!!!

With pedal pumping, you will not cavitate the fluid in the bottom of the slave cylinder enough to flush out all the old Clutch dust/fluid still in the bottom of it.