Thinking about cam on my 05 would like some input.
Anyways, next month I would like to throw a cam on her, I was thinking of a TSP 228R with the 1518 Beehive springs to go along with it. Now my concern is do I need to upgrade injectors and timing chain? I not planning to do anything else to her after that. By the way I recently installed a brand new complete LS2 clutch assembly about a year ago and it feels great, should I be fine with it? Oh and by the way what length of Push rod would you all recommend me? I am not gonna tune her too aggressive as well.
Thanks guys!
Sounds like you're going to have a good time though
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I would normally recommend a timing chain upgrade at least if not a melling high pressure oil pump as well. Keeps everything in shape and provides everything you need over the stock pump! Those are the 2 most popular options.


It adds drag to the oil pump drive shaft and the back of the cam and adds to spark scatter.
Pressure is the result of restriction, not added protection.
They are LITERALLY a staple amongst ls cam swaps.
You should look at the dist cam gear in an ls cam sometime. Then tell me how it adds to spark scatter on the distributor...
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They are LITERALLY a staple amongst ls cam swaps.
You should look at the dist cam gear in an ls cam sometime. Then tell me how it adds to spark scatter on the distributor...
Be that as it may, I have sold hundreds and installed nearly a hundred. The "gurus" like Kurt Urban even have said he uses the high pressure pumps and he has not seen enough "drag" on the crank to provide any evidence not to.
There isnt a need for high volume IMO and from what alot of other reputable people have said, but you cannot go wrong with a high pressure. The internals are alot higher quality and likely build to a better tolerance.
If you saw the pumps gm was selling a few years ago, THOUSANDS, that were damaged on the block face, you would not want a replacement gm pump.


Be that as it may, I have sold hundreds and installed nearly a hundred. The "gurus" like Kurt Urban even have said he uses the high pressure pumps and he has not seen enough "drag" on the crank to provide any evidence not to.
There isnt a need for high volume IMO and from what alot of other reputable people have said, but you cannot go wrong with a high pressure. The internals are alot higher quality and likely build to a better tolerance.
If you saw the pumps gm was selling a few years ago, THOUSANDS, that were damaged on the block face, you would not want a replacement gm pump.
Unless you deviate from a factory build in regards to bearing clearances or RPM range anything more than a basic factory replacement is a waste. Again, pressure is a result of restrictions in the oil passages, needless increased oil pressure is just heating the oil for no gain, in a street environment. Besides, the OP has a 104k mile motor, my advice would be to trend lightly with that kind of mileage.
Most cam swaps are done on engines nowadays with over 80k on them. Tread lightly? Not likely. The force of the extra torque made by the crankshaft alone on a cammed or higher compression build or even more timing would have no issue overcomming the "drag" and will normally produce more heat in the oil anyway. That is why most cars and trucks nowadays have oil coolers or higher capacity oil pans.
Kurt can build and spec builds that are normally street driven. He is not a one pony show.
I know of many engine shops that exclusively use the 10295/96 pumps for all of their builds. Thousands of people and professionals can be wrong vs you being right?
Mosy fbody swaps are done with well over 100k on the clock and still drive hard.
In fact I have seen more phantom issues from low mileage cars than mid to higher mileage ones.


Your attitude is as apparent here as it is over at LS1Tech. I would suggest you do some research on current practices on bearing clearances, oil pressure and oil type.
While this is a gen 1/2 the theory is still relevant
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...s_and_answers/
This is just one I came across from an oil manufacture
"Remember, Correct flow is more important to lubrication than pressure"
http://www.synforce.com.au/node/24
If you really want to know what they are doing today, get out from behind your monitor.
If you use the old adage about 10 lbs. per 1K RPM, then at the most he needs 70 lbs. . And since that figure was developed in the 60's and 70's oil quality has increased measurably to the point that the saying, while safe, isn't 100% true anymore. Production and competition engines are being built with tighter clearances that require less pressure to survive due to less waste from large clearances and modern oils.
The bottom line is you only use as much pressure and volume as needed and the stock pump provides plenty. But I understand, part peddlers need to keep the general public in the dark to keep selling parts.
I was done with this thread, until you made your childish remark ...... way to represent
I wonder if it's coincidental that the 2 most well thought out sets of headers I've ever had were both Tri-y? I put a set of Thorley's on a pickup in the early 90s and the fit on those were nice as well.
Last edited by nbm6spd; Jun 13, 2014 at 04:55 PM.














