So I know that DRM shocks are very few and far between so not trying to get a set of them. Problem is when I'm going around a "curve" of some sort or another when the tires hit a bump I'm getting a ton of bump steer. Tires aren't staying on the ground. Rear seems to be fine. I'm running stock ZO6 shocks, the one's that came on it. I'm at 10,000 miles so they should still be Ok? don't really think I need to go to Coil overs so that leaves, Bilstein Sport's, Koni's or QA1's. I put Bilstein sport's on my old C5 and it drove like a truck. Koni's are over 1K for a set easy and I don't know **** about QA1's except they seem like they may be good shocks. I have a ZO6, with 295/30-18 front and 345/30-19 rear both are Michelin cup tires and grab like hell. Best tires I ever had. Car is at factory height settings, bought it at 2400 miles and never moved it.
Anybody care to pipe up here? I sure would appreciate it.

Thanks!!

 

try lowering your air pressure

 

I run it at the factory called for 30 PSI cold. What would you suggest I lower it to??

 

go to tireracks site and look under sport cups Michelin has specific pressures and they work.
as to Shocks Give Randy Rippie a call he can tell you just what to do or get you his shocks

 

I have Pfadt adjustables I got from Vengeance Racing. You can get a full set of Johnny O'Connells for 649 bucks.

Well worth it.

 

Pfadt is out of business
Hopefully they will be back...............but don't hold your breath.
Right now. our choices are less
a few of the best are
LG Racing (forum vendor)
Doug Rippie (Forum vendor)
MTI Racing (forum vendor)

any of the above will help if you call

 

Their website doesn't say anything about that.

Damn. Well, when and if the shocks I have go bad, time to use Lou at LG Motorsports!!! I'll go to coil overs then. It'll **** off the wife, but you'se gots to do what you'se gots to do.

 

meanjoe
Feel free to call anytime to discuss coil overs and sway bars for your Z. You will not believe the difference they will make on your car. Check the links below for more info.

http://www.mtiracing.com/mti-racing-...-corvette.html

http://www.mtiracing.com/mti-bilstei...coilovers.html

 

I don't think I want to change over to coil overs. I don't track the car. I'm really very happy with the way it handles except for the way it jumps around when going over bumps around curves. Not a good thing. If I could find something that would do a better job of keeping the front tires on the road I think that would be all I'd need. I'm guessing that it's going to be an adjustable shock of some sort?

 

My wife says the car rides better with coilovers.

 

This is a common problem with the Z06 and non-magnetic shock suspensions and is well documented on the forum.

I suggest you try the Bilstein Sports shocks. The cost is reasonable and there are many comments how these shocks help improve ride quality and reduce bump steer. Or, you could try a set of Grand Sport shocks from GM at further reduced cost, especially if you are not tracking the car. The GS shocks may give you a softer ride and reduce bump steer. For my GS, the shocks seem to be a good compromise for street duty. They are not Z-51 shocks, but specific built for the GS which seems to ride a little softer than the Z-51 I owned previously.

 

Isn't bump steer the movement of the wheels in relationship to arc of the movement? Just trying to understand because I bought these to solve the bump steer issue.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...ear,-Pair.html

This link is for the rears, but I did the fronts.

 

Sorry tim, I'm fuzzy on the term 'Bump Steer' too, just used the op's terminology. I've seen bump steer kits available but haven't analyzed the issue. My car seems to drive just fine both on the street and during hpde events, though I just ordered a set of DRM Bilstein's to try to get the car to feel a little more settled during high speed braking and a compression issue I have during heavy acceleration at the bottom of a hill - there is quite a jounce and the front air dam scrapes.

 

i run qa1 and love them. if you have an issue they will fix it or talk you through it. when i bought them i had little knowledge of coil overs and they educated me. they talked me through the process of setting up my car after i told them what it was doing and what i wanted it to do. they also sent me an extra set of springs free to try just in case.

i have double adj coil overs

 

Here is a good bump steer explanation.

Basics of Bumpsteer As the front wheels move up and down, we want the front wheels to maintain a particular direction. It's most important for the wheels to have minimal bump when we are negotiating the turns. There are certain elements of the construction of the front end components that will make this happen.

The angles of the upper and lower control arms, meaning a line extending through the center of rotation of the ball joints and inner mounts of each arm, intersect at a point we call the instant center (IC). This is one of the components used to determine the moment center location. In order to have near zero bumpsteer, the intended goal, we need to have the tie rods on each side point toward the IC for its side. This is one of two criteria for near zero B/S.

The other thing we need is for the tie rod to be a specific length. That length must be equal to the distance formed by 1) a line extending through the centers of rotation of the tie-rod ends, and 2) the tie-rod line intersection with a) lines extending through both the upper and lower ball joints, and b) the plane that passes through the inner chassis mounts. This can get a little complicated because although the ball joints do form a single line, the chassis mounts form a plane because of the front and rear mounts.

So, the inner tie-rod intersection point is where the tie-rod line intersects the plane of the inner mounts and the outer line intersection point is where it intersects the ball joint line. A three dimensional geometry program can simulate this very well, but most of us don't have the luxury of owning and knowing how to operate one of those.

Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/chassiste...#ixzz39YJIPl4S

 

That was what I think was a very good technical explanation of Bump Steer. Now this is mine.............When your going really fast around a swooping curve and you start to hit bumps.....the tires don't return to the road fast enough to keep you in control of the car. So then you start to go OHHHH! this is no good. Just need a shock that keeps the tire on the ground, can't be rocket science?

 

OK? What do I do with this tidbit of info? Help

 

I call it "Bump steer" And maybe I'm using the wrong terminology? But it's when the car hit's bumps and then the tires get off the ground and then you can feel the car go either left or right all on it's own. So that's why I call it Bump Steer because when it hit's a bump it tries to steer itself where it want's to go. All I got.

 

Some one said that you don't need coilovers becasue it is not a track car. My point is that it doesn't have to be a track car to see benefits.

Now do you understand that tidbit of information?

Thanks!