average power per part???
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
average power per part???
Hey guys just want to do up a list of parts and what we guess the average horsepower per part is on a ls2 heads/cam build. So here's the list.
CNC port and polished 243 heads - whats the average HP?
Fast 102 ???
231/239 .617/.624 113 LSA???
K&N CAI ???
Kooks headers with off road x pipe ???
25% ud pulley???
Corsa exhaust ???
Tune???
I just done my base pull on a stock 2006 manual ls2 with 60,000 miles. It put down 333 rwhp and 359 torque, I'm installing all the above mods in the next few days along with all new valve train. So just wondering roughly what each part makes HP wise in the build, any input guys will be appreciated. Thanks.
CNC port and polished 243 heads - whats the average HP?
Fast 102 ???
231/239 .617/.624 113 LSA???
K&N CAI ???
Kooks headers with off road x pipe ???
25% ud pulley???
Corsa exhaust ???
Tune???
I just done my base pull on a stock 2006 manual ls2 with 60,000 miles. It put down 333 rwhp and 359 torque, I'm installing all the above mods in the next few days along with all new valve train. So just wondering roughly what each part makes HP wise in the build, any input guys will be appreciated. Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,104
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
The most cost effective is the tune, since it will allow all the other parts to work together.
The K&N and Corsa are the losers, since the HP gains are next to nothing and the K&N can actually reduce the HP capability of the other components by not being a real CAI. Cold air is good, but just a filter change has no advantage for your build.
The most important part of any build is not the dyno HP created, but the power you can put to the ground when you drive it.
The K&N and Corsa are the losers, since the HP gains are next to nothing and the K&N can actually reduce the HP capability of the other components by not being a real CAI. Cold air is good, but just a filter change has no advantage for your build.
The most important part of any build is not the dyno HP created, but the power you can put to the ground when you drive it.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
[QUOTE=HOXXOH;1587602932]The most cost effective is the tune, since it will allow all the other parts to work together.
The K&N and Corsa are the losers, since the HP gains are next to nothing and the K&N can actually reduce the HP capability of the other components by not being a real CAI. Cold air is good, but just a filter change has no advantage for your build.
The most important part of any build is not the dyno HP created, but the power you can put to the ground when you drive it.[/
So what are you thinking my final rwhp numbers will be after the build. Most guys are thinking more than 460 but less than 490.
QUOTE]
The K&N and Corsa are the losers, since the HP gains are next to nothing and the K&N can actually reduce the HP capability of the other components by not being a real CAI. Cold air is good, but just a filter change has no advantage for your build.
The most important part of any build is not the dyno HP created, but the power you can put to the ground when you drive it.[/
So what are you thinking my final rwhp numbers will be after the build. Most guys are thinking more than 460 but less than 490.
QUOTE]
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For the money you are dropping into it, supercharging would be around the same price counting labor, and would end up 600HP+ instead.
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 709
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
For the money you are dropping into it, supercharging would be around the same price counting labor, and would end up 600HP+ instead.
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: NEWPORT NEWS VIRGINIA
my combo below puts over 503 rwhp and over 451 rwtq LS2 manual 6speed and very reliable dd. I chose the N/A route because I love the cam sound and power. In my opinion it is more reliable then a SC route. If I wanted to go the sc route it probably would of been cheaper but to each is there own it still Got plenty of SAC.
texas speed as cast 225 heads
fast 102 ported
ported stock throttle body
cam is very similar 231/243 617/623 lsa113+4
25% power bond pulley
OBX lt headers, slp loudmouth II axle back
vararam cai
texas speed as cast 225 heads
fast 102 ported
ported stock throttle body
cam is very similar 231/243 617/623 lsa113+4
25% power bond pulley
OBX lt headers, slp loudmouth II axle back
vararam cai
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
my combo below puts over 503 rwhp and over 451 rwtq LS2 manual 6speed and very reliable dd. I chose the N/A route because I love the cam sound and power. In my opinion it is more reliable then a SC route. If I wanted to go the sc route it probably would of been cheaper but to each is there own it still Got plenty of SAC.
texas speed as cast 225 heads
fast 102 ported
ported stock throttle body
cam is very similar 231/243 617/623 lsa113+4
25% power bond pulley
OBX lt headers, slp loudmouth II axle back
vararam cai
texas speed as cast 225 heads
fast 102 ported
ported stock throttle body
cam is very similar 231/243 617/623 lsa113+4
25% power bond pulley
OBX lt headers, slp loudmouth II axle back
vararam cai
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Race Director
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
For the money you are dropping into it, supercharging would be around the same price counting labor, and would end up 600HP+ instead.
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
As for root or centrifugal, all depends where you want the power increase in the RPM band and how much HP in the end.
Roots is going to produce a great deal of power down lower (as well across the power band) but you hit max Hp that you can gain with the unit pretty quick, while with a centrifugal force blower, think more upper band power and the sky is the limit of how much more power you want down the road.
With say a TVS-2300 and 2-3/4 pulling, that is about the max that you are going to spin it (to the point that you are just over heating the air with a smaller that that pulley), but good for around 650HP on stock parts.
With a centrifugal unit, unless the unit is under sized to start with, 800hp+ (whole lot of motor building to hold that kind of power since the stock motor with super charger is good for 600hp).
and op if your going to do a sc down the road your gonna want to make sure the mods you do now will work with the sc otherwise your just wasting money to redo things....
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
So what do you intend to do with the car once you get this new power?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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You must be talking motor hp at 600....you get about 150 hp from a sc... so on his stock motor at lets say 350hp I see it at about 500 wheels...
and op if your going to do a sc down the road your gonna want to make sure the mods you do now will work with the sc otherwise your just wasting money to redo things....
and op if your going to do a sc down the road your gonna want to make sure the mods you do now will work with the sc otherwise your just wasting money to redo things....
Note, keep in mind that past 600hp, your really pushing the stock motor past it safe limits, and becomes the time to at least think about upgrading pistons and rods.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
It makes no difference what the number is unless you only want a cool dyno sheet to put on your dash for bragging at car shows. If you can't utilize all the power, then you wasted time and money to create it.
So what do you intend to do with the car once you get this new power?
So what do you intend to do with the car once you get this new power?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
The car is for personal use. I just want it for summer driving. No track time for this car until I do the FI and methroute. Then I may do a few quarter mile runs every summer. Other than that just break a few hearts from time of guys with big wings on there cars lol. My buddy has a galardo. I want to run with him sometime also.
You can also come back in a couple weeks to tell us how you like it and ask about clutches and tires.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 709
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
Hey guys I appreciate all the replys but we have kind of gone off topic. The whole point of this thread was to estimate how much horse power each part makes roughly. I wanted to know what each individual part makes with the head and cam package. For instance let's say this h/c package makes 460 rwhp we'll of the 460 rwhp how much power did the fast 102 generate, how much did the heads generate, how much did the headers make, how much did the cam make etc etc etc. you guys get the picture.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,949
Likes: 263
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
I think my thread will answer your question.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ast-heads.html
Decided yesterday to overlay all my mods since I've self tuned and dyno'ed each time I did major mods.
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
I found it interesting and thought I'd share.
See below. Each line represents progressive mods:
1. stock;
2. headers & tune (3.90 gears at same time);
3. G5x3 cam & .040 gaskets (11.4 compression);
4. FAST, and
5. used AFR 205 heads.
What strikes me is how dramatic the gains from headers and a tune were. Combined with the gears, it felt like a different car, and I got a full second + 10 mph in the 1/4 from those mods, from 12.9@108 to 11.8@118. The car was dead nuts reliable at this level.
The second take away is how all the remaining mods really only mattered from 4500 on. Thus I very seldom notice them on the street, only on the track. Not counting the cool sound of the cam.
Mods 3-5 did take off another second and added 10 mph - to 10.8@128. But it cost a lot more and I broke a diff and two transmissions on my way.
This graph shows what I've been saying for while; headers, tune and gears give you by far the best bang for the buck from idle to redline, the remaining mods only matter from 4500 on. Most street driving is below 3000 rpm...you do feel gears and headers even at that level.
Hope someone finds this useful as they decide upon mods.
I need to add...without question...the best mod for return on $$ is...
SEAT TIME.
And personally, I find that mod the most rewarding.
Another item Tommy kindly reminded me of, is weight reduction.
If you are drag racing, you can expect .1 to .15 from putting skinny tires up front (saving 50 lbs+ of rotating weight) and taking out your passenger seat (53 lbs).
Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: NEWPORT NEWS VIRGINIA
Joe example is great its is in the ball park but every cam is different.. same with heads and all the other components themselves will vary from car to car but a ball park figure will be a prime example of Joe but it will also depend on who is tuning it also.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,949
Likes: 263
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
The point about how the mods stack as I made in my thread stands regardless about which cam/heads you choose. And, if you have a manual gears are a great mod, and if you have an auto, the high stall converter is the killer mod, you can take a second off your ¼ mile time with a 3800 stall converter.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 709
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From: Grand Falls Newfoundland
