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Rotating Engine ?

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:06 AM
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Default Rotating Engine ? UPDATE

Guys I am trying to figure how you guys rotate your engine while still in the car. I am putting in new rockers and doing the rotating each cylinder EOIC method. I just cant figure how to rotate the engine. I no all the spark plugs have to come out.. I am assuming an 24mm socket but I don't see that fitting in the crank area. Is there an easier way.

update: I took a 24mm wrench and heated it up and bent it to shape and now it clears the rack and opinion and slips right on the crank bolt. So what I will do next, would be take the plugs out and put the car into neutral. thanks guys for the help.
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Last edited by shawnaj7731; Dec 21, 2014 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:26 AM
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Grab the serpentine belt and pull it. OR If you have a MN6 trans, put it in gear and push the car, take it out of gear and roll it back, repeat..

BC
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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I cut almost an inch off of the end of a 24 mm socket, works, not great because it can easily slip off the bolt, but best solution I found.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin-vette
I cut almost an inch off of the end of a 24 mm socket, works, not great because it can easily slip off the bolt, but best solution I found.
That^^^^plus I put aluminum plate spacer loosely supporting back end of the socket+wrench against steering rack. Worked great, precise rotation without tool falls off. I also use long travel indicator on valve stem to indicate precise travel.

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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I cheated and outsourced it....
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:54 PM
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Lift the engine a few inches
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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All good suggestions, but, timd38, again takes the cake!!
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by shawnaj7731
Guys I am trying to figure how you guys rotate your engine while still in the car. I am putting in new rockers and doing the rotating each cylinder EOIC method. I just cant figure how to rotate the engine. I no all the spark plugs have to come out.. I am assuming an 24mm socket but I don't see that fitting in the crank area. Is there an easier way.
take the socket to a machine shop have the turn it down by half, that way the socket and rachet will fit, I can sell you one for $25.00 shipped
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin-vette
I cut almost an inch off of the end of a 24 mm socket, works, not great because it can easily slip off the bolt, but best solution I found.
too much
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
take the socket to a machine shop have the turn it down by half, that way the socket and rachet will fit, I can sell you one for $25.00 shipped
Actually, the correct terminology:

1. When an operator remove materials off, furthest from the chuck, at the socket's end face, it is called - "facing off".

2. When an operator remove materials off the O.D.(outside diameter), than, it is called - "turning down".

When facing off a socket for this application, faced off by half is taking things a little for granted!

Well, for me, depends on whether the socket is regular, impact, industrial, deep walled or..... Bottom line - depends on the style of the socket design. Then, I measure for the total with consideration to ease of install/removal, clearance for the turning tool combos and such.

I hope that didn't complicate things, but clear things up a little.

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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CMY SIX
take the socket to a machine shop have the turn it down by half, that way the socket and rachet will fit, I can sell you one for $25.00 shipped
Perhaps you would be willing to share the length of the ideal socket after modifications..?
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 12:15 AM
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A Snap-On XOM2224 (deep offset box-end wrench, 22mm & 24mm) would _probably_ work, though I haven't tried one myself.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Perhaps you would be willing to share the length of the ideal socket after modifications..?
I will! let me dig it out
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:24 PM
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The easiest way I know of. You can go to the parts store and buy the starter relay that goes into the fuse box under the hood. You can then remove the protective cover off of the relay. You need to replace the relay that is in the fuse box with the one you removed the cover off of. When you are ready to bump the engine over, you just manually make the contacts touch.

Enjoy.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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^^^Still Hit & Miss. That method only gets into the neighborhood.

Accuracy = manual turning + travel dial indicator to show exact travels in .001" or .0001" - of course, that all depends on how accurate you want.

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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Agree for a degree cam install. It is not that necessary for stock non adjustable rocker arms. He wanted something easy to bump the engine over.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by needcheese
Agree for a degree cam install. It is not that necessary for stock non adjustable rocker arms. He wanted something easy to bump the engine over.
OP asked - easier cranking, to rotate each cylinder for "EOIC"!

Bumping can get you close. Since LS has non adjustable rocker arms -Lots of people also R&R and torque their rocker arm bolt without following the "EOIC" procedure as well. Logical, right ?

Do whatever make you happy!

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To Rotating Engine ?

Old Dec 11, 2014 | 10:02 PM
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Well I am switching from stocker rockers to Comps Ultra Golds and trying to figure the best way to install them and easiest way.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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All I did was put a socket on the alternator nut and slowly cranked which moves the serp belt and turns the motor. Simple and easy
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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^^^works on some engines but not all, especially engine having good internal tolerance. But easy to find out!

Didn't work on my lowly low mile '05!

****

Op, I can post pic on hand tools I used on crank. After removed coolant hoses and air intake snorkel, I turn engine from the passenger side, which had the most clearance and it was easier for me to hook up my assortment of Starrett "C" clamps and such, along with travel dial indicators on #6 to monitor, while slowly rotate for precise "EOIC" sequence. But you do need to be resourceful while "C" clamping used for travel dial anchor.

My method might be presumptive - do you have Starrett type "C" clamps that used for dial indicator attachment and two long travel indicator?

If you are lacking resource, but still want to get fairly close, wooden dowel or TDC Stop Indicator can help.

Go ls1tech forum, lots of fun reads, if you want more ideas!

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