Somewhere on this site I saw a tool that looked like a c clamp but on the fixed end it was forked rather than solid, in order to allow the stud to pass through.

Does anyone know the real name of this tool and where the heck I can find it? Browsing the local auto stores, and hardware stores hasnt yielded anything...

Thanks!

 

It is C Clamp with the fixed end open. This is just my opinion, but hit it and it falls out and then use the Lisle tool to install the new one.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-22800...uUEaAuT-8P8HAQ

Here is the removal tool.
http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/unde...s/AMR2050E.htm

 

ahh ball joint remover...

Thanks!

 

I bought this one when they had them for $29.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html

It works fine for the once every 22 years I need to use it!

 

I use a short handle 3 lb sledge. One good whack and the stud pops right out. To install studs I use a lug nut with both ends open along with a washer to sit between the lug nut and the hub. Just run the lug nut on with the impact wrench until the stud seats.


Bill

 

I used a air impact hammer with a pointed tip. They came out quickly and with little effort.

 

Has anyone messed up wheel bearings with the hammer method? I destroyed my right rear internally after curbing the wheel once so I have been hesitant about using a hammer to apply force to the outer edges of the bearing.

Thanks!

 

Nope! They come out real easy. I replaced all 20 with longer studs. The issue is getting the longer ones on with the hubs on the car.

 

It is a sudden impact that doesn't last long. You aren't going to put anywhere near as much force on the hub as a 3000 lb car will do sliding into a curb with the wheel providing extra leverage.


Fronts are easy to do. Once the rotor is off rotate the stud you want to remove toward the rear of the knuckle. There is a notch in the knuckle that will allow a stock length stud to come out with some jiggling one you have it loose and to get a stock length one back in with some jiggling. Longer studs can be more interesting.


The rear studs are the big problem as removing the hub is a huge PIA. If you don't remove the hub then you have to drill a hole in the backing plate right next to the mount for the parking brake spring clip so you can get the studs out and in. The front and rear knuckles are the same PNs just switched from side to side so the notch is toward the front of the knuckle instead of the rear.


Bill

 

This post will upset a few.

My opinion to your question. Lets put it in another light.

In my past DOD Shipyard Fit-To-Fight career. There are two Machinist trades. One is called Inside while the other is Outside. Inside Machinist are the one who manufacture precision parts and do the precision repairs on components. Outside Machinist is similar to an auto mechanic, they do R&Rs on shipboard components. Their favorite tool is a 5 lbs short handle sledge hammer. Their nickname - Hammer Mechanic.

On the forum, same few members often advocate the use of (BFH) hammer on car.

IMO, the less direct metal to metal strike/contact if avoidable, is good for the health of components, especially if those, downstream, contains precision fit/bearings. But in situation where hammer strikes is needed, dead blow hammer is a better alternative to a 5 lbs steel sledge.

In other words, force has a direct effect on connecting components. Example: Newton's Cradle, it has to go somewhere, right?

So take it for what it is worth.

 

Hmm, I think even I understand that one.

 

The air impact hammer method I used worked well with very little stress to the bearing assembly.

 

Having removed/installed studs many times in my life, I agree 100% with the above.

A nice $5 short-handled 3 or 4-lb hammer from Harbor Freight, a few light-to-MODERATE taps, and they pop right out. You do NOT go all "Thor" with the hammer -- there is no need. You let the inertia of the 3-lb head do most of the work (thats why you use a 3-lb hammer/sledge instead of a standard 1-lb framing hammer). You'll be surprised at how little effort it takes.

As for stud installation, you don't even need an impact wrench. A few washers between the hub and an open ended lug nut and you can easily pull the stud into place with a standard lug wrench, with the same or less torque that you would used to tighten the lugs after changing a tire.

Cheers,
Kent

 

Does anyone have a photo of where exactly you would need to drill the backing plate on the rear? I somehow managed to strip one of my studs and would really like to avoid having to pull the hub just to change one stud. Thanks.

 

If you are replacing stock-length studs, there is no need to remove the hub or drill anything.

I replaced all 10 studs on the rear (I had modified the original stock studs to use some wheel adapters, and then subsequently wanted to go back to stock, unmodified studs), and believe me you can wiggle the OEM studs in and out just by rotating the hub a little during extraction.

SIMPLIFIED STEPS FOR STUD REMOVAL. Again, this is for STOCK length studs.
1) Jack up car and remove the wheel/tire. Make sure parking brake is OFF, and transmission is in neutral. Block remaining tires so that the car does not move/roll once it is raised, as you *will* be applying some torque during the following steps.
2) Unbolt brake caliper and hang it aside with a piece of wire, don't just let it dangle by the line. No need to disconnect brake line.
3) Pull off brake rotor. (Remove and discard round 'tinnerman' clips first if they are still present on the lugs)
4) Remove parking brake shoes/springs to free up some room behind hub face. (rear stud replacement only, obviously)
5) Rotate hub so that the stud you wish to replace is directly aligned with a gap in the hardware behind the hub face.
6) Tap stud multiple times with 3-lb hammer just until it is loose in the hub.
7) There isn't enough room to remove the stud by simply pulling it straight back, so remove it by pulling the stud back and away from the hub face as far as it will go, and then slowly rotate the hub, thus allowing the stud to 'tilt', at which point it can be wiggled freed from behind the hub.

Kinda hard to describe, but it becomes quite clear when you are doing it. I did all 10 studs on the rear of my 2006 this way with no drilling and no hub removal. The wiggling and rotating is a little fiddly at first, but it CAN be done, and is much faster/easier than hub removal or drilling holes.

STUD INSTALLATION:
1) Wiggle new stud into an open hole in the hub using the same tilt/turn method used for lug removal above.
2) Place 4 or 5 washers over the new stud, and then install a standard open-ended lug nut over the washers, flat side of the nut towards the washers. (TIP:Pick up a cheap non-covered lug nut at the parts store for this-- don't try to use the standard chrome covered lug nut from your wheel, as its taper and covered end can interfere with proper tightening.)
3) Using a lug wrench, tighten the lug nut to standard torque, which will draw the new stud into the hub face. Put the car into gear so that the hub doesn't turn while tightening the lug. DO NOT TRY TO USE THE REGULAR OR PARKING BRAKES TO HOLD THE HUB.
4) Ensure that the stud has been pulled all the way into the hub by verifying that no gap exists between the stud shoulder and rear face of the hub.
5) Reinstall parking brake shoes/springs, rotor, wheel/tire.

IMPORTANT: After installing new lugs, make sure you check and re-torque the lug nuts -- once after driving just a few miles and again after 50 miles to ensure that they remain tight.

Cheers,
Kent

 

Kent gave a great explanation. Just to support what he said, if you replace stock length with stock length, you don't need to make any alterations to the vehicle. It is only if you want to use longer studs, do you end up with an issue.

 

Thanks guys. I just realised that if you pull the rotor off, then you can access the back side of the hub flange. This is a big help. I just picked up some new studs from Napa (since the useless local GM dealer didn't have any in stock). I will check to make sure they are no longer than the stick ones before I try to change them out. Thanks again.

 

The stock studs aren't threaded at the end. If you buy non stock studs they probably will be threaded all the way to the end so you may not need a longer stud if you are running a spacer behind the wheel. I could easily run an 1/8 spacer on my C5Z just by changing to aftermarket studs that were threaded all the way to the end. Depending on the wheel I had on the car I could swap the spacer in and out and not worry about bottoming the lug nut out on the stud.

Bill

 

Pull your rear rotor off and look behind the hub flange at the front of the knuckle. You should be able to see the notch in the knuckle and right behind it the backing plate. The parking brake shoe mounting spring fits into a notch in the backing plate. You have to drill your hole far enough from the notch so you don't disturb the parking brake mount. You will see what I am talking about as soon as you pull the rotor and start inspecting the assembly. More than likely you will have to drill the hole from the back side of the backing plate.

Bill

 

Thanks Bill. I will take a look at doing this later today as I still have the car on the lift from doing a diff and converter swap. I pulled the rotor yesterday, but there was no way to see the back side of the axle flange because the parking brake is in the way, so I would either need to pull the parking brake or drill the hole. Kinda stupid that GM didn't put a hole in the backing plate (maybe with a rubber plug in it to prevent dirt getting into the parking brake). That would make changing the rear studs a breeze, but there's a lot more that falls into that category...
I bought a full set of replacement studs from Napa yesterday. They are fully threaded. Here's what they look like: