When pulling the C6 engine from the top, is the correct procedure to remove the TT from the bell housing, or the bell housing from the back of the engine?

Also, anyone know of a video tutorial on removing the engine?

All that is left is the short block. All accessories, radiator, intake and cylinder heads are off.

Thanks in advance

 

Unbolt the torque tube from the bellhousing.

 

Sorry the video sucked that I found.

 

In addition to what is stated above, you will need to either unbolt the rack (don't bother) or undo the upper control arms from the frame and then lower the front cradle (far easier than doing the steering rack). All this to clear the damper. Note: you will need a way to support the cradle ( harbor freight Trans jack or a floor jack with wood to straddle cradle) as you lower it. As soon as the damper swings free of rack life a little and you can bolt the cradle up. You will also need some wire or straps to hold the front uprights once you unbolt the upper arms. Thanks to Century Trans for this suggestion!

 

I've got pictures for the entire process from the last couple times I pulled mine so I can answer any specific questions you might have. I keep on meaning to put together a complete how to guide but have been too busy at work to get it done.

 

Depending on how far along you are, here's something else I found to be extremely helpful for both getting the motor out and then back in again.

Instead of putting the entire car up on jackstands, only do the front but as high as possible. Once the cradle is unbolted from the frame and lowered to the ground, you're then able to drop the motor down quite a bit so that it's parallel to the floor while still connected to the torque tube. This will give you much better access to the bolts at the top of the torque tube and then later when trying to reinstall it, you'll have a lot more room to maneuver everything back into place. What it'll look like from the side of the car is the engine is where it usually is when it's bolted up to everything but the body looks like a funny car style that lifts up completely off the frame.

The single hardest part of the entire job is trying to get the front part of the torque tube into the back of the flywheel, but I've got a trick for that too so let me know when you're getting ready to put it back in.

 

Oh I wanna know this one

Pretty please?

(probably going to have to change my clutch soon.. and had a heck of a time with that part last time I put the torque tube/transmission back in)

 

Unfortunately I don't think it applies to manual transmissions because it involves removing the coupler from the back of the flywheel which a manual trans car doesn't have.

Anyway, instead of having to get the splined front part of the torque tube lined up perfectly with that coupler I've found it to be a LOT easier by unbolting the coupler altogether and letting it rest on the torque tube as you're mating the two parts together.

What this does is remove the necessity of having to get everything lined up absolutely perfectly as well as prevent the torque tube from potentially bending (which I've unfortunately done before).

Once you've got the torque tube and bellhousing bolted back together, you then have to get underneath and install the six nuts holding the coupler to the flywheel. You can only get to two nuts at a time through the access panel in the bottom of the torque tube so it'll require manually spinning the engine, but the last time I installed the motor it took me less than 20 minutes to go from having the engine on the ground to in the car and properly connected to the torque tube.

I'll try to dig up at least a few pictures and post them later tonight.

 

Been doing a little homework and came to that conclusion.

Thanks

 

Great. If I get stuck I'll be in touch.

Thanks

 

Found a few pics.

I thought I had more so I'll keep looking tonight.

This a picture of the clamp where the torque tube slides into the back of the coupler as seen while looking through the access hole underneath:




This is the torque tube just after having been slid out of the coupler:



Slightly different angle showing basically the same thing:




A picture of the flywheel with the coupler attached. I don't have one with it bolted to the car but this shows everything in better detail anyway. As you can see the coupler is connected to the back of the flywheel with six nuts:

 

Ah, I see now. Good idea!