Major electronic problems
03-09-2015, 04:58 PM
#1
Major electronic problems
Any help would be great here. As I'm at a loss and pretty discouraged.
2 years ago I put on the COH Service column lock bypass. Was good for a year. After 1 year it started to give me the service column lock message again but still started. I than put in a cam and headers on the car and got it tuned. After having that done 6 months the car would leave my stranded with the service column lock message and I would cycle the start button and it would eventually start. in OCT last year it became completely undriveable as it would not start only 1 out of 100 start switch cycles and just blast the service column lock message.
Also the following should be noted. I do get the no fobs detected message a lot even when the fob is in the glove box. When i did cruise the car last year on the interstate after about 80 miles of driving in hot weather the car would kick out out my cruise/ and keep my brake lights on and disable all systems. I could clear the error by sometimes pulling to the side and shutting off and restarting. If the car cooled down and restarted I could cruise 80-100 miles with it and it would come on again.
I have done the following: Checked the battery 12.56 volts with 586 cranking amps. Replaced the starter and silonoid. re seated the column lock bypass checked cables.
Is this a possible bad BCM? Are there any other things I can check?
If it is the BCM, I have to take it to the dealer to get the BCM reprogrammed to the car. Will they re flash the aftermarket tune I have on my computer with a stock tune?
I'm at a loss here because I don't know what else it could be.
2 years ago I put on the COH Service column lock bypass. Was good for a year. After 1 year it started to give me the service column lock message again but still started. I than put in a cam and headers on the car and got it tuned. After having that done 6 months the car would leave my stranded with the service column lock message and I would cycle the start button and it would eventually start. in OCT last year it became completely undriveable as it would not start only 1 out of 100 start switch cycles and just blast the service column lock message.
Also the following should be noted. I do get the no fobs detected message a lot even when the fob is in the glove box. When i did cruise the car last year on the interstate after about 80 miles of driving in hot weather the car would kick out out my cruise/ and keep my brake lights on and disable all systems. I could clear the error by sometimes pulling to the side and shutting off and restarting. If the car cooled down and restarted I could cruise 80-100 miles with it and it would come on again.
I have done the following: Checked the battery 12.56 volts with 586 cranking amps. Replaced the starter and silonoid. re seated the column lock bypass checked cables.
Is this a possible bad BCM? Are there any other things I can check?
If it is the BCM, I have to take it to the dealer to get the BCM reprogrammed to the car. Will they re flash the aftermarket tune I have on my computer with a stock tune?
I'm at a loss here because I don't know what else it could be.
03-09-2015, 05:13 PM
#3
03-09-2015, 05:46 PM
#7
Even if its holding the charge the parts store says you think I should still replace it?
03-09-2015, 05:57 PM
#9
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Walton Beach Florida
Posts: 438
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My car had a weak battery and had trouble starting. I brought it to the auto parts store and it tested fine. Bought a new one just for piece of mind. Solved my issue
03-09-2015, 07:10 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
I think you should fix the column lock error before chasing down anything else -- that's a known electrical bogey. Those column lock eliminator boxes have been known to go bad (mine did on an earlier Corvette)
03-09-2015, 10:57 PM
#11
Update - Cleaned up the ground on the frame and the car started 3 times within a 5 minute period( didn't run it long both times). Than it went back to its normal thing not starting. It still gave the service column lock during this whole process.
I was thinking about ordering another column lock but right now I'm leaning toward the battery??
I was thinking about ordering another column lock but right now I'm leaning toward the battery??
03-10-2015, 02:16 AM
#13
Best bet, the lock eliminator went bad (to much heat when soldering to the relay post) and causing a problem now.
You can see if COH will replace it (they had problems with the units with using too much heat soldering the relay), or if not, then buy a new one from here (this is the guy that design and built them for COH before he left, and COH started to make them for themselves instead (and had problems making them since they where using too much heat to solder on the relay),
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82&chn=ps
As for testing your unit, pull it out of the car,
Put 12V to the red/black wires, and look for ohm reading between the two green wires. Now put 12 volts to the red/black again, but this time put the 12+ to the black wire, and the 12- to the red wire (will hear a light click as the relay locks the other direction), and check for a ohm reading between the two green wired again.
The relay in the unit is a locking relay, and to lock in the other direction, the volt is reverse through the coil side and how the car switches the relay as well. On the contractor side of the relay, there is two resistors that switches the green wires resistance values as relay is switch the other direction. In the car, this makes the car believe that the lock is either unlocked with one value, or locked with the other resistance value through the green wires
So with the relay switch one direction and no resistance across the green wires with the relay locked that direction, then the relay pins where over heated when the resistors where being solders on, and why the unit is defective (was border line before, and now gone instead).
And no, if the relay is soldered with the correct heat range (instead of too hot), then the device will last decades.
To add the relay will switch all the way down to 9v's.
P.S, before you order one from kfn01(if COH will not warranty the unit), email kfn01 since it may be one of the ones that he made for COH while he was still there, and he will warranty it for you instead.
You can see if COH will replace it (they had problems with the units with using too much heat soldering the relay), or if not, then buy a new one from here (this is the guy that design and built them for COH before he left, and COH started to make them for themselves instead (and had problems making them since they where using too much heat to solder on the relay),
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82&chn=ps
As for testing your unit, pull it out of the car,
Put 12V to the red/black wires, and look for ohm reading between the two green wires. Now put 12 volts to the red/black again, but this time put the 12+ to the black wire, and the 12- to the red wire (will hear a light click as the relay locks the other direction), and check for a ohm reading between the two green wired again.
The relay in the unit is a locking relay, and to lock in the other direction, the volt is reverse through the coil side and how the car switches the relay as well. On the contractor side of the relay, there is two resistors that switches the green wires resistance values as relay is switch the other direction. In the car, this makes the car believe that the lock is either unlocked with one value, or locked with the other resistance value through the green wires
So with the relay switch one direction and no resistance across the green wires with the relay locked that direction, then the relay pins where over heated when the resistors where being solders on, and why the unit is defective (was border line before, and now gone instead).
And no, if the relay is soldered with the correct heat range (instead of too hot), then the device will last decades.
To add the relay will switch all the way down to 9v's.
P.S, before you order one from kfn01(if COH will not warranty the unit), email kfn01 since it may be one of the ones that he made for COH while he was still there, and he will warranty it for you instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 03-10-2015 at 02:21 AM.
03-16-2015, 07:33 PM
#14
Best bet, the lock eliminator went bad (to much heat when soldering to the relay post) and causing a problem now.
You can see if COH will replace it (they had problems with the units with using too much heat soldering the relay), or if not, then buy a new one from here (this is the guy that design and built them for COH before he left, and COH started to make them for themselves instead (and had problems making them since they where using too much heat to solder on the relay),
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
As for testing your unit, pull it out of the car,
Put 12V to the red/black wires, and look for ohm reading between the two green wires. Now put 12 volts to the red/black again, but this time put the 12+ to the black wire, and the 12- to the red wire (will hear a light click as the relay locks the other direction), and check for a ohm reading between the two green wired again.
The relay in the unit is a locking relay, and to lock in the other direction, the volt is reverse through the coil side and how the car switches the relay as well. On the contractor side of the relay, there is two resistors that switches the green wires resistance values as relay is switch the other direction. In the car, this makes the car believe that the lock is either unlocked with one value, or locked with the other resistance value through the green wires
So with the relay switch one direction and no resistance across the green wires with the relay locked that direction, then the relay pins where over heated when the resistors where being solders on, and why the unit is defective (was border line before, and now gone instead).
And no, if the relay is soldered with the correct heat range (instead of too hot), then the device will last decades.
To add the relay will switch all the way down to 9v's.
P.S, before you order one from kfn01(if COH will not warranty the unit), email kfn01 since it may be one of the ones that he made for COH while he was still there, and he will warranty it for you instead.
You can see if COH will replace it (they had problems with the units with using too much heat soldering the relay), or if not, then buy a new one from here (this is the guy that design and built them for COH before he left, and COH started to make them for themselves instead (and had problems making them since they where using too much heat to solder on the relay),
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
As for testing your unit, pull it out of the car,
Put 12V to the red/black wires, and look for ohm reading between the two green wires. Now put 12 volts to the red/black again, but this time put the 12+ to the black wire, and the 12- to the red wire (will hear a light click as the relay locks the other direction), and check for a ohm reading between the two green wired again.
The relay in the unit is a locking relay, and to lock in the other direction, the volt is reverse through the coil side and how the car switches the relay as well. On the contractor side of the relay, there is two resistors that switches the green wires resistance values as relay is switch the other direction. In the car, this makes the car believe that the lock is either unlocked with one value, or locked with the other resistance value through the green wires
So with the relay switch one direction and no resistance across the green wires with the relay locked that direction, then the relay pins where over heated when the resistors where being solders on, and why the unit is defective (was border line before, and now gone instead).
And no, if the relay is soldered with the correct heat range (instead of too hot), then the device will last decades.
To add the relay will switch all the way down to 9v's.
P.S, before you order one from kfn01(if COH will not warranty the unit), email kfn01 since it may be one of the ones that he made for COH while he was still there, and he will warranty it for you instead.
Update:
I replaced the service column lock Bypass - No dice still same issue
Replaced battery - No dice Same issue again
I have no idea what to do next.
BCM?
03-16-2015, 08:45 PM
#15
Drifting
Check the alternator...
03-16-2015, 10:40 PM
#17
03-17-2015, 01:21 AM
#18
If there is a fresh bypass and fresh batt and your having lighting issues/starting still i would start suspecting bcm also. Maybe check the seating of the pins on the bcm wiggle test it to see if you can better or replicate your problem.
03-17-2015, 11:45 AM
#20
Race Director
Was the SCL on the dic when you installed the new eliminator? It has to be unlocked and that notice can't be there before you install it.