How to change just brake rotors?
03-31-2015, 06:15 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
How to change just brake rotors?
Im looking to change out my brake rotors on my base 07 c6. I know theres probably a how to somewhere on here but I searched and couldn't find anything. I didn't buy brake pads because my car only has 11k on the clock just upgrading the base rotors to drilled and slotted ones. Can anyone help me out?
03-31-2015, 07:33 PM
#2
Team Owner
Here's one:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ng-rotors.html
Notice at the top of the post is a list of other brake How-To's that you can access.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ng-rotors.html
Notice at the top of the post is a list of other brake How-To's that you can access.
03-31-2015, 07:48 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
This is the front brakes , the rear are the very same except for parking brake.
The rear not only has brake pads but also brake shoes. It does take a bit to work around those shoes. And they need to be adjusted when you are finished with brake job.
The rear not only has brake pads but also brake shoes. It does take a bit to work around those shoes. And they need to be adjusted when you are finished with brake job.
03-31-2015, 08:42 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
If you are upgrading to Z51 drilled rotors you will have to replace the caliper brackets as well. Calipers are the same but you will need new brackets.
03-31-2015, 09:07 PM
#6
Racer
probably makes no practical difference though.
03-31-2015, 09:19 PM
#7
Team Owner
From http://corvetteactioncenter.com/spec...05/final3.html
Near bottom of page regarding the Z51.
"The more aggressive pad may make a little more noise, but, GM logically figures Z51 owners, the more sporting drivers that they are, will accept that along with better brake performance during aggressive driving. The rear brake calipers on Z51s have different pistons which are 4mm smaller in diameter. That makes brake bias more optimal for brake pedal feel during aggressive driving maneuvers because there is less ABS intervention and less dynamic rear proportioning (DRP) action to degrade the consistency of pedal feel. The smaller pistons also decrease rear brake pad wear compared to the front, but the differences in pad wear rates was deemed an acceptable compromise for better brake feel during at-limit handling situations."
Near bottom of page regarding the Z51.
"The more aggressive pad may make a little more noise, but, GM logically figures Z51 owners, the more sporting drivers that they are, will accept that along with better brake performance during aggressive driving. The rear brake calipers on Z51s have different pistons which are 4mm smaller in diameter. That makes brake bias more optimal for brake pedal feel during aggressive driving maneuvers because there is less ABS intervention and less dynamic rear proportioning (DRP) action to degrade the consistency of pedal feel. The smaller pistons also decrease rear brake pad wear compared to the front, but the differences in pad wear rates was deemed an acceptable compromise for better brake feel during at-limit handling situations."
03-31-2015, 09:31 PM
#8
Racer
04-01-2015, 02:21 AM
#9
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I hope to clear up some procedures and clarify what has been posted.
The link Rick posted was for a Z06 which has different calipers and rotors, although the basic idea is the same.
Since you are planning to put on drilled and slotted rotors, I assume the ones you have now are plain. The RPO code is JL9 and are commonly called base brakes. Also available in '07 were RPO J55 brakes that were part of both the F55 and Z51 options and also as a stand alone option. Most parts places and some Corvette people refer to them (wrongly) as Z51 brakes. The J55 rotors are larger than JL9 rotors and are cross drilled.
If you choose to order the larger rotors, you will also need the caliper brackets for the J55 brakes. As noted, the front calipers are the same for either system, while the rears have slightly different piston sizes. The difference in rotor diameter on the rear necessitated either a smaller piston or a different proportioning valve with an ABS compensation. The piston size was the easiest to accomplish and the parts all fit in the RPO bin. Using the JL9 rear caliper with the J55 rotor will cause the rear wheels to possibly lock up a little bit earlier under extreme conditions before the ABS kicks in. Since 80% of the braking force is done with front brakes, it's unlikely that the piston size difference will ever be noticed.
After removing the wheels, you can use the two screwdriver method to retract the piston in the caliper. See the 1st photo in post #25 here. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ke-pads-2.html
Be sure to check your brake fluid reservoir to insure it won't overflow when retracting pistons.
Remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts with a 22mm socket. See the video about front brake service, however after you remove the first bolt, hand thread it back in about one turn, then remove the second one and go back to the first one again, since it'll only take one turn with your fingers. Everything will stay in place better and you'll have more control.
Now go back and look at the pic with the screwdrivers again. See the clips on two of the studs? Those are put on at the factory to hold the rotor for assembly purposes only. You can remove (cut, twist, or destroy) and discard them, since they're no longer required. Now the rotor should slip off. If rust has built up on the hub, it may be necessary to tap the rotor with a soft hammer or a block of wood.
Now would be an excellent time to paint the calipers if you desired.
Unlike the video, it's a lot better to clean all the surfaces possible before you paint or re-assemble.
If you are increasing the rotor sizes you will have to remove the bracket from the caliper and replace it with the larger bracket at this stage. Otherwise, it's not necessary to remove the brackets from the calipers.
Reverse the procedure to re-install the rotors/calipers and torque the bracket bolts to 125 lb ft.. Mount the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 lb ft.
Recheck the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal a few times to move all the pads into place.
Once it's back on the ground, pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
The link Rick posted was for a Z06 which has different calipers and rotors, although the basic idea is the same.
Since you are planning to put on drilled and slotted rotors, I assume the ones you have now are plain. The RPO code is JL9 and are commonly called base brakes. Also available in '07 were RPO J55 brakes that were part of both the F55 and Z51 options and also as a stand alone option. Most parts places and some Corvette people refer to them (wrongly) as Z51 brakes. The J55 rotors are larger than JL9 rotors and are cross drilled.
If you choose to order the larger rotors, you will also need the caliper brackets for the J55 brakes. As noted, the front calipers are the same for either system, while the rears have slightly different piston sizes. The difference in rotor diameter on the rear necessitated either a smaller piston or a different proportioning valve with an ABS compensation. The piston size was the easiest to accomplish and the parts all fit in the RPO bin. Using the JL9 rear caliper with the J55 rotor will cause the rear wheels to possibly lock up a little bit earlier under extreme conditions before the ABS kicks in. Since 80% of the braking force is done with front brakes, it's unlikely that the piston size difference will ever be noticed.
After removing the wheels, you can use the two screwdriver method to retract the piston in the caliper. See the 1st photo in post #25 here. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ke-pads-2.html
Be sure to check your brake fluid reservoir to insure it won't overflow when retracting pistons.
Remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts with a 22mm socket. See the video about front brake service, however after you remove the first bolt, hand thread it back in about one turn, then remove the second one and go back to the first one again, since it'll only take one turn with your fingers. Everything will stay in place better and you'll have more control.
Now go back and look at the pic with the screwdrivers again. See the clips on two of the studs? Those are put on at the factory to hold the rotor for assembly purposes only. You can remove (cut, twist, or destroy) and discard them, since they're no longer required. Now the rotor should slip off. If rust has built up on the hub, it may be necessary to tap the rotor with a soft hammer or a block of wood.
Now would be an excellent time to paint the calipers if you desired.
Unlike the video, it's a lot better to clean all the surfaces possible before you paint or re-assemble.
If you are increasing the rotor sizes you will have to remove the bracket from the caliper and replace it with the larger bracket at this stage. Otherwise, it's not necessary to remove the brackets from the calipers.
Reverse the procedure to re-install the rotors/calipers and torque the bracket bolts to 125 lb ft.. Mount the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 lb ft.
Recheck the brake fluid and pump the brake pedal a few times to move all the pads into place.
Once it's back on the ground, pat yourself on the back for a job well done.