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I've tried the search function and can't seem to locate a DIY. Do you just cut the ground wire and both connectors and solder them together?
Thanks guys!
I've tried the search function and can't seem to locate a DIY. Do you just cut the ground wire and both connectors and solder them together?
Thanks guys!
basicly yes, I got some butt connectors at lowes crimped and then soldered, used heat shrink tubing also.
basicly yes, I got some butt connectors at lowes crimped and then soldered, used heat shrink tubing also.
Unless you are planing to need to pull the connectors apart any time soon, just solder the wire ends together with heat shrink as the protector. Hence any connector you put in line, will become the weak line of the system again.
Also, take a look at what temps you are trying to pull the temps down to with the fan in the tune.
A 160 t stat will have the engine at idle around 185, but as soon as you get on it, the temp is going to be up in the 200 range with the OEM radiator and single fan.
If you are trying to hold the system at 180, then you need to replace the radiator, the fan, and even the fan controller.
Unless you are planing to need to pull the connectors apart any time soon, just solder the wire ends together with heat shrink as the protector. Hence any connector you put in line, will become the weak line of the system again.
Also, take a look at what temps you are trying to pull the temps down to with the fan in the tune.
A 160 t stat will have the engine at idle around 185, but as soon as you get on it, the temp is going to be up in the 200 range with the OEM radiator and single fan.
If you are trying to hold the system at 180, then you need to replace the radiator, the fan, and even the fan controller.
Stock fan setting,
a butt connector is simply a tube you insert a lead in each end and it supplies the mechanical connection (support) the solder supplies the electrical connectin integrity. in automotive work they are commonly simply crimped, however this can lead to internal corrosion over time and a failed cnnection like wise simply soldering the wires together creats a stiff spot in the wire leading to the possibility of failure due to vibration.
It is simply easier to insert the wires into a butt connector and crimp slightly to keep the wire in place while you solder it.
the goal here is to get the fan working and keep it working. as you said the stock radiator is not big enough for extended use. also the actual temp of the system will run about 20* above the stamped temp on the thermostat.
Understood, but it just as easy to pre-solder the wire ends, slip on a piece of heat shrink down one of the wires, solder the wire ends together, then slip the heat shirk over the the soldered wires to heat shrink it in place.
With the butt connector, you need to pre-flux the inside of it, then get the butt connector hot enough to sweat flow solder from one end of it, to the other of the butt connector through the wires to get a continues solder joint of the wires together inside instead. This take a lot of heat, and often ends up with the wires shields melting back a lot farther than once stripped to.
Where I see the butt connectors coming in handy, you suck at soldering, and will hold the wires crimped to the butt connector in place so you can flow solder the butt connector solid with solder (without burning your finger tips up if you suck as soldering to begin with).
Where I see the butt connectors coming in handy, you suck at soldering, and will hold the wires crimped to the butt connector in place so you can flow solder the butt connector solid with solder (without burning your finger tips up if you suck as soldering to begin with).
Yep that is pretty much it most people can't hold two wires together upside down under the care while using their other two hands to use a soldering iron and hold a roll of (flux core) solder. .
I'm a pro at soldering and didn't even try
Say it, evolution sucks, and it would have been nice is we wouldn't have lost our tails.
Think how may times that you needed a extra hand, and if we still had our tails, would have been set for a project without needing someone else for a helping hand.
The only ones that ever need this is those whose fan connector has melted. Mine is the first I know of that has melted on a 100% stock vehicle. It failed around 100k miles.
The only ones that ever need this is those whose fan connector has melted. Mine is the first I know of that has melted on a 100% stock vehicle. It failed around 100k miles.
Yep, your in a high humidly area and the connector plug can corrode from the humidity, and cause the limit continuity through the plug connectors to cause it to heat up and melt.
One of the things that I preach on the Vet is preventive maintenance, and for guys in the high humidly areas, most important when it comes to the connectors as well.
If you are working in the area of connectors, pull the connector, hit it and the reception device pins with electrical contact cleaner, then use a bit of dielectric grease on the mating connectors/pins. The will prevent the contacts from corroding over time, and keep you from having to play lets find the gremlin short in the wiring game later.
P.S, if you are wondering what corrode connectors look like, then just pull the door electric pull pads and see if they need to be cleaned.