School me on stroker options
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From: Los Angeles California
School me on stroker options
Until recently I have only considered two paths for adding power to my LS3:
I just recently started looking more into stroker options and am a bit overwhelmed and am having trouble narrowing down my options.
General questions to start:
Any thoughts are appreciated
- N/A with bolt-ons and cam - but don't like the idea of losing factory drivability especially if I want to make good power
- Supercharger - not reliable long term (I know lots of members have put tons of miles on it but I don't like the idea of driving a ticking time bomb...) and heat production issue on road courses
I just recently started looking more into stroker options and am a bit overwhelmed and am having trouble narrowing down my options.
General questions to start:
- How do the different stroker sizes, e.g. 418, 427, differ, other than the CU? Is bigger always better? If not, why?
- How does a stroker LS3 affect drivability? Low RPM issues? I don't want to run a huge cam on it
- Since we are staying N/A I assume this is way more reliable and road course friendly than FI options?
- Who are some good places to source stroker motors?
- Am I better off just getting an LS7 and building it? My goal is 550whp+ N/A and I know LS7s can touch that though I'll be back to the whole cam / drivability issue again
Any thoughts are appreciated
Last edited by furiousox; May 21, 2015 at 04:38 PM.
Drifting
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If you go the stroker option, thats a complete rebuild not just bolt-on. Crank, pistons, likely rods, all get changed. With a stroker, your torque band shifts down in RPM range. More torque but at a lower RPM (This possibly would affect your rear end ratio). And since you are filling a bigger chamber, your camshaft and heads would need to be tuned to complement that.
You can't make one big change like stroking without there being a ripple effect. You could actually make the car slower.
You can't make one big change like stroking without there being a ripple effect. You could actually make the car slower.
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From: Los Angeles California
If you go the stroker option, thats a complete rebuild not just bolt-on. Crank, pistons, likely rods, all get changed. With a stroker, your torque band shifts down in RPM range. More torque but at a lower RPM (This possibly would affect your rear end ratio). And since you are filling a bigger chamber, your camshaft and heads would need to be tuned to complement that.
You can't make one big change like stroking without there being a ripple effect. You could actually make the car slower.
You can't make one big change like stroking without there being a ripple effect. You could actually make the car slower.
I'll be the first to admit I'm no engine builder and building, or even planning a stroker kit from scratch is a bit farfetched
Race Director
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Good move! You may have an issue getting one installed in California because of emissions.
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How does say a 427 LS3 feel though? Lol maybe it's worth it to detune the engine to pass smog (is this even possible?) once every 2 years if it drives near factory-like but with 550whp+ lol
Don't know if my entire idea of a stroker kit is completely unrealistic...
Race Director
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Uh...yikes...there goes this whole idea...DAMMIT
How does say a 427 LS3 feel though? Lol maybe it's worth it to detune the engine to pass smog (is this even possible?) once every 2 years if it drives near factory-like but with 550whp+ lol
Don't know if my entire idea of a stroker kit is completely unrealistic...
How does say a 427 LS3 feel though? Lol maybe it's worth it to detune the engine to pass smog (is this even possible?) once every 2 years if it drives near factory-like but with 550whp+ lol
Don't know if my entire idea of a stroker kit is completely unrealistic...
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Drifting
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From: Los Angeles California
Any other thoughts on stroker? and my original questions in the OP?
I did more research and it seems like gas consumption and even longevity aren't as good as a well-built FI set up, but those threads were all pretty short and regarding stroker vs. FI
I prefer NA power and delivery any day but if heat can be contained, and just upgrading the pistons and rings on my block can make it reliable with boost then perhaps FI is still the better option
Safety Car
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From: Bay Area CA
Your in L.A., drive over to A&A Corvette and have them install a V3 Si supercharger with DeWitts radiator that is CA CARB certified. That will resolve drivability issues, 550 rwhp goal and emission requirements.
Not only does the modification have to be CA CARB certified, but they do a visual inspection for emissions equipment. When I had my emissions testing done in Northern CA 5 months ago, they looked up the CARB certification # and did a visual inspection. Hell, they even measured the supercharger pulley size and Harmonic balancer. I passed without any issues. Thanks to A&A Corvette for their CA CARB certified kit and install.
Not only does the modification have to be CA CARB certified, but they do a visual inspection for emissions equipment. When I had my emissions testing done in Northern CA 5 months ago, they looked up the CARB certification # and did a visual inspection. Hell, they even measured the supercharger pulley size and Harmonic balancer. I passed without any issues. Thanks to A&A Corvette for their CA CARB certified kit and install.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 22, 2015 at 09:15 PM.
Heel & Toe
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I don't see how any off the shelf supercharger from a reputable vendor with a good tune would be considered a ticking time bomb. That's honestly the quickest, safest route to 550whp IMO. Longevity will depend as much on how you drive and maintain it as it will on the extra 50% whp over stock. A good rule of thumb that I modify by - start to worry about building and longevity when you reach 2x the factory whp. Most modern engines are more stout than we give them credit for.
On the stroker route, you'll always have to cam with a stroker. The bigger breath per revolution demands more airflow, otherwise you'll corner yourself into a diesel powerband
On the stroker route, you'll always have to cam with a stroker. The bigger breath per revolution demands more airflow, otherwise you'll corner yourself into a diesel powerband
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Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!
Any more inputs? I'm sure I'm not the only one considering the stroker option as n/a and longevity are nice to have.
If I go supercharged I'll be content with just an A&A kit so I am still smog legal here in CA. If I make 550-570whp with the stock headers then even better. However, I am concerned about engine temp. even in the canyons as I go every weekend...plus with how many miles I have on the ODO who knows how many miles I have left with a couple of PSI pushing thru the SC...
Any more inputs? I'm sure I'm not the only one considering the stroker option as n/a and longevity are nice to have.
If I go supercharged I'll be content with just an A&A kit so I am still smog legal here in CA. If I make 550-570whp with the stock headers then even better. However, I am concerned about engine temp. even in the canyons as I go every weekend...plus with how many miles I have on the ODO who knows how many miles I have left with a couple of PSI pushing thru the SC...
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I would add an a&a kit and be done. If your that worried about longevity then throw some rods and pistons in it and drive it. 550 isn't pushing this motor too hard. Getting 550 rwhp na even with a stroker you will probably need to sacrifice some drive ability with the cam.