Need some help with identifying this alternator
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
Need some help with identifying this alternator
Anyone know what this actually came off? It's a 2 lead connection and none of the shops by me can figure it out. I'm having a low voltage issue and the battery is good so I need to get this tested. This is on my 2005 vette with an LS7 in it. Thanks for any help.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
That was just one of the places that looked at it and it was easy for me to take a few pics. The 2 service shops that rebuild them couldn't figure out what model it is. I emailed the shop you listed so we'll see what they say next week. Maybe it's an older model they use to make? The ones they sell now use the factory connector not the 2 pin like on mine. The shops all tested it and said its working so I'm not sure why my car is only showing around 11.8 volts all the time?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 285
Likes: 6
Ok here we go. Did you verify voltage behind alternator engine running? Also at the battery? GMs are famous for loose or corroded harness grounds. Verify voltage drop alternator and engine ground. Then alternator and chassis ground.
Was battery tested for a dead cell? This can pull alternator voltage down especially if the other good cells are undercharged from poor grounding. GM alternators tend not to charge at idle and can even partially discharge the battery.
If the PCM sees low voltage your DIC (no pun intended) should flash the cessage charging system fault.
Open the hood and look at the alternator plug. This supplies the field current to excite the alternator. GM connectors are famous for wires breaking inside the insulation about an inch behind the connector. Tug with reasonable force on each wire individualy. The defective wire will pop it's insulation. Repair as nesessary.
Hope this helps.
Was battery tested for a dead cell? This can pull alternator voltage down especially if the other good cells are undercharged from poor grounding. GM alternators tend not to charge at idle and can even partially discharge the battery.
If the PCM sees low voltage your DIC (no pun intended) should flash the cessage charging system fault.
Open the hood and look at the alternator plug. This supplies the field current to excite the alternator. GM connectors are famous for wires breaking inside the insulation about an inch behind the connector. Tug with reasonable force on each wire individualy. The defective wire will pop it's insulation. Repair as nesessary.
Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
Ok here we go. Did you verify voltage behind alternator engine running? Also at the battery? GMs are famous for loose or corroded harness grounds. Verify voltage drop alternator and engine ground. Then alternator and chassis ground.
Was battery tested for a dead cell? This can pull alternator voltage down especially if the other good cells are undercharged from poor grounding. GM alternators tend not to charge at idle and can even partially discharge the battery.
If the PCM sees low voltage your DIC (no pun intended) should flash the cessage charging system fault.
Open the hood and look at the alternator plug. This supplies the field current to excite the alternator. GM connectors are famous for wires breaking inside the insulation about an inch behind the connector. Tug with reasonable force on each wire individualy. The defective wire will pop it's insulation. Repair as nesessary.
Hope this helps.
Was battery tested for a dead cell? This can pull alternator voltage down especially if the other good cells are undercharged from poor grounding. GM alternators tend not to charge at idle and can even partially discharge the battery.
If the PCM sees low voltage your DIC (no pun intended) should flash the cessage charging system fault.
Open the hood and look at the alternator plug. This supplies the field current to excite the alternator. GM connectors are famous for wires breaking inside the insulation about an inch behind the connector. Tug with reasonable force on each wire individualy. The defective wire will pop it's insulation. Repair as nesessary.
Hope this helps.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Remove the 3-10mm nuts on the back cover and pull the back plastic back cover, and let me see what the voltage regulator and brush housing looks like (need photo).
Also, the voltage regulator and brushing housing should be secured with just 3 bolts, and removing it will allow you to check the brushes to see if they have worn too short, as well as check the slip rings to see if they have worn down to the plastic below the bronze surfaces of the slip rings.
Also, the voltage regulator and brushing housing should be secured with just 3 bolts, and removing it will allow you to check the brushes to see if they have worn too short, as well as check the slip rings to see if they have worn down to the plastic below the bronze surfaces of the slip rings.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
Remove the 3-10mm nuts on the back cover and pull the back plastic back cover, and let me see what the voltage regulator and brush housing looks like (need photo).
Also, the voltage regulator and brushing housing should be secured with just 3 bolts, and removing it will allow you to check the brushes to see if they have worn too short, as well as check the slip rings to see if they have worn down to the plastic below the bronze surfaces of the slip rings.
Also, the voltage regulator and brushing housing should be secured with just 3 bolts, and removing it will allow you to check the brushes to see if they have worn too short, as well as check the slip rings to see if they have worn down to the plastic below the bronze surfaces of the slip rings.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Seeing lots of brush dust.
Need you to pull the voltage regulator with brush housing (4 phillps head bolts) and show me the amount that the brushes are sticking out the brush housing, and condition on the slip rings.
Also, take some electrical contact cleaner and clean up the voltage regulator housing, and inside the brush channels in the bush housing to make sure that the brushes can freely move in the housing (should spring back out about half way out when they are pushed in to the house, but will not spring all the way out, since they have back cables soldered to the back of the bush housing connectors).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
As for type, the body design is screaming Valeo, but need to figure out the voltage regulator and bushing housing to see what models of alternator it is, and what it was used on (the add a bracket is the part that is throwing me).
Note, the Valeo alternator do not like to be over spun. If causes the wire winding wraps to come loose from their glue points, and can snap the winding wires at their connection points off the windings.
Need you to pull the voltage regulator with brush housing (4 phillps head bolts) and show me the amount that the brushes are sticking out the brush housing, and condition on the slip rings.
Also, take some electrical contact cleaner and clean up the voltage regulator housing, and inside the brush channels in the bush housing to make sure that the brushes can freely move in the housing (should spring back out about half way out when they are pushed in to the house, but will not spring all the way out, since they have back cables soldered to the back of the bush housing connectors).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
As for type, the body design is screaming Valeo, but need to figure out the voltage regulator and bushing housing to see what models of alternator it is, and what it was used on (the add a bracket is the part that is throwing me).
Note, the Valeo alternator do not like to be over spun. If causes the wire winding wraps to come loose from their glue points, and can snap the winding wires at their connection points off the windings.
Last edited by Dano523; Jun 8, 2015 at 01:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
Seeing lots of brush dust.
Need you to pull the voltage regulator with brush housing (4 phillps head bolts) and show me the amount that the brushes are sticking out the brush housing, and condition on the slip rings.
Also, take some electrical contact cleaner and clean up the voltage regulator housing, and inside the brush channels in the bush housing to make sure that the brushes can freely move in the housing (should spring back out about half way out when they are pushed in to the house, but will not spring all the way out, since they have back cables soldered to the back of the bush housing connectors).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
As for type, the body design is screaming Valeo, but need to figure out the voltage regulator and bushing housing to see what models of alternator it is, and what it was used on (the add a bracket is the part that is throwing me).
Note, the Valeo alternator do not like to be over spun. If causes the wire winding wraps to come loose from their glue points, and can snap the winding wires at their connection points off the windings.
Need you to pull the voltage regulator with brush housing (4 phillps head bolts) and show me the amount that the brushes are sticking out the brush housing, and condition on the slip rings.
Also, take some electrical contact cleaner and clean up the voltage regulator housing, and inside the brush channels in the bush housing to make sure that the brushes can freely move in the housing (should spring back out about half way out when they are pushed in to the house, but will not spring all the way out, since they have back cables soldered to the back of the bush housing connectors).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
As for type, the body design is screaming Valeo, but need to figure out the voltage regulator and bushing housing to see what models of alternator it is, and what it was used on (the add a bracket is the part that is throwing me).
Note, the Valeo alternator do not like to be over spun. If causes the wire winding wraps to come loose from their glue points, and can snap the winding wires at their connection points off the windings.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Car running and idling for a few mins, need readings of,
1. Alternator output alone (Alternator body as the negative, and its back post terminal under the boot at the positive .
2. Voltage at the battery with the multi-meter probes directly to the battery terminal lead tops.
3. Voltage from the engine fuse block positive post (lift the fuse block lid up), using the Alternator housing as the negative for the probe.
4. Voltage read out of the DIC in the dash (not the anolog dial on the dash, but the actual voltage number in the DCI when you scroll to voltage).
Note, dial and DIC digital read out should be the same, but really need the digital read out number.
Also, where it the photo of the slip ring surface conditions one you pulled the voltage regulator off to clean it?.
1. Alternator output alone (Alternator body as the negative, and its back post terminal under the boot at the positive .
2. Voltage at the battery with the multi-meter probes directly to the battery terminal lead tops.
3. Voltage from the engine fuse block positive post (lift the fuse block lid up), using the Alternator housing as the negative for the probe.
4. Voltage read out of the DIC in the dash (not the anolog dial on the dash, but the actual voltage number in the DCI when you scroll to voltage).
Note, dial and DIC digital read out should be the same, but really need the digital read out number.
Also, where it the photo of the slip ring surface conditions one you pulled the voltage regulator off to clean it?.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 4
From: Shelby Township Michigan
Car running and idling for a few mins, need readings of,
1. Alternator output alone (Alternator body as the negative, and its back post terminal under the boot at the positive .
2. Voltage at the battery with the multi-meter probes directly to the battery terminal lead tops.
3. Voltage from the engine fuse block positive post (lift the fuse block lid up), using the Alternator housing as the negative for the probe.
4. Voltage read out of the DIC in the dash (not the anolog dial on the dash, but the actual voltage number in the DCI when you scroll to voltage).
Note, dial and DIC digital read out should be the same, but really need the digital read out number.
Also, where it the photo of the slip ring surface conditions one you pulled the voltage regulator off to clean it?.
1. Alternator output alone (Alternator body as the negative, and its back post terminal under the boot at the positive .
2. Voltage at the battery with the multi-meter probes directly to the battery terminal lead tops.
3. Voltage from the engine fuse block positive post (lift the fuse block lid up), using the Alternator housing as the negative for the probe.
4. Voltage read out of the DIC in the dash (not the anolog dial on the dash, but the actual voltage number in the DCI when you scroll to voltage).
Note, dial and DIC digital read out should be the same, but really need the digital read out number.
Also, where it the photo of the slip ring surface conditions one you pulled the voltage regulator off to clean it?.